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Flaring brake line

XJWheelie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
I was installing longer flex hoses on the brake lines and when I got to the right front I discovered that someone at some point in time had screwed up the nut on the hard line with pliers or vise grips or something.

Anyway, it's too tight to get off even with my own vise grips, so what I thought that I'd do is cut the hard line about an inch up, put on a new nut and re-flare it. What I need to know is what's the best tool to use when doing this? I've looked at flaring tools and there are several different kinds.

Thanks,
Robert
 
You know I have the same question, I cut my trans hoses and wanted to flare then and the tool didnt work, when I tightended it all it did was slide down the pipe. I couldnt figure it out, maybe I was doing somthing wrong. Maybe somone can help both of us out...
 
This seems to be a "you get what you pay for" tool. I had a cheap Plews one (<$20) and didn't have very good luck with it.

When that broke I ponied up for a NAPA one that was "guaranteed" to work as I needed it for my Mustang's brakes. This one was around $50 and did an excellent job when you follow the directions that come with it exactly.

I did have some trouble with it the last couple of times, though that was on the 3/8ths line I was running for the transmission cooler and the first few were excellent, but I think I pluged the rings that hold the tubing a little bit and that caused some slippage for the last couple flares. I think a good cleaning will get it going on the 3/8ths again, but I hope to never need to deal with it.

Just my $.02
Bill

PS: I flared my lines before putting the hoses on and couldn't slip the hoses on with the flare on it so I ended up cutting the flares off and just clamping it down.
 
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I have used one simaller to this for brakes, no problems. Once you get the hang of it, it is very easy.
resize

Practice.


Rev
 
I also had trouble with a cheap tool. The clamp wouldn't hold the tubing firmly enough. A better clamp solved the problem. Even then, you have to really sock it down tight.

Just in case, we should point out to XJWheelie that we're talking about double-flaring tools here. Single flares will not work.

If you've never done double flaring before, I suggest you get some brake line of the same size as you're working on and practice on it first. Make sure the tool works right, and that you know just how to get it consistent. You might also consider cutting the original line off further up. Find a place out of the way of rust, perhaps inside the engine bay, and preferably easy to reach with the flaring tool. Put a nut on that, flare it, and then attach a new prefabricated length of line to it with a double-female coupling. If you need a custom length for the new stub, you can cut a longer prefab piece and reflare it without having to try to do it under the car. Next time you do brake work, if you mangle the fitting at the end, or it's rusty, etc. it will be easy to replace.
 
Thanks everybody. I tried one of the tools that was pictured, a bar and yoke style, on a piece of hard line that I wasn't using and didn't get anything approaching a proper flare. Followed the directions EXACTLY as written and nothing. If the line was soft, something besides steel, I think that I could get it to work.

I would order from J.C. Whitney, but the last time that I did it took several weeks. What about something like this from sears. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00951283000

They've got another flare tool as well.

Robert
 
keys are; make absolutely sure the tube is cut square, chamfer the edge, and lubricate the anvil well. After these, its just a matter of making sure you gauge the stick-out of the tubing, clamp it tight ( the bar clamps are designed to be clamped 100% tight), and ensure as you wind the anvil down that it is coming down square. Don't over crush the second flare. practice a lot and use s bends on your lines to give yourself a lot of leeway in case of problems
 
Dittos on the cheap tools comment above. Got pissed off at cheap one and bought one off the Matco truck. Worked good, but yes, it does require some amount of practice and attention to detail. Make sure you get the double flare set up or you will have leaks.
 
I have been waging war with the 91 for 3 days now, last night I killed all three of my flaring tools, craftsman, superior and performance tool (which is the only one that would hold the tube without slipping) after screwing with them all night long and making one usable flare (and a ton of little cut off flare rings) I went and bought a RIDGID model 345. It was 90 bucks but well worth the money. If you look one up on the internet, you will see why it works so well. Every flare I have made today has been right on, (except for the one i did on the wrong side of the clamp bar) .

joel
 
raceready said:
cut off flare rings) I went and bought a RIDGID model 345. It was 90 bucks but well worth the money. If you look one up on the internet, you will see why it works so well. Every flare I have made today has been right on, (except for the one i did on the wrong side of the clamp bar) .

joel

Man, hate to show you this but:

http://www.jimslimstools.com/detail.aspx?ID=5136
($39.15)

or

http://www.heavydutystore.com/Ridgid_RIDGID_Tubing_Tools_Flaring_Tools_page_1_c_269.html
($38.38)

Sarge
 
Joel, did you get a double flare out of that Ridgid 345? Or just a single?
 
I did some searching and also found this one.

http://www.handsontools.com/store-products-Air-Conditioning-Adapters-Tools-Disconnect-Hose-Tubing-Disconnect-KDT2190-<font-color=red><b>KD-Tools-Double-Flaring-Tool-Kit<-b><-font>_23327.html
 
Rev Den said:
I have used one simaller to this for brakes, no problems. Once you get the hang of it, it is very easy.
resize

Practice.


Rev

I used the exact same tool. Borrowed it from AutoZone.
Cost=0
Most people don't do enough flares to justify buying the tool when it can be borrowed from the neiborhood autopart store for nothing.
 
the kit I bought has the double flare adapters, and I didn't have time to save $$. As slow as Jimstools website is, I would still be waiting to add it to my shopping cart. As it was, I had already been up all night, and I knew where I could get one, so I did.

the most amazing part of this tool is that it is the only one I have seen where the 3/16 clamp bore has no grooves to help it clamp!

like I said before, worth the money, made great flares (all double) not one leaked.

ps, I believe the kit you saw the price on was for the single "lap" version, try looking for the 345-dl, with cool plastic carrying case :)

joel
 
I recently had to make a couple of double flares and I did have a bit of a problem. The flares were not coming out perfectly straight, one leaked.
I started using a little grease on the flare surfaces and things worked better.
I didn't see any instructions calling for greasing and I am not sure whether it was the grease that made the difference.
It seems that the most critical part is that the cut is clean, square and the proper amount sticking out of the tool.
 
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