CCV & PCV Check, Clean

In the past few months i always have a bit of oily residue on the engine itself around these two mounts that have hoses from them. I tried pulling on them to clean them up but that was a no go. How does one go about cleaning them or do they get replaced ? Its a 94xj with the 4.0.


pete

I think on the 91-95, they twist 90 degrees to take them off. You are talking about the 90 degree elbows?Right?
Tom

i have the same cherokee, they dont screw out u have to pull them out, i used a pair of channel locks and used them as a lever to pull them out but the gromet will come out with it make sure u take the gromet off with out ripping it though.

yes i am taking about the elbows...so do i pull on them or do i twist them..lol

pete

Try removing the hose from the elbow (it makes it easier to turn), then twist 90 degrees and lift. I have had marginal luck with cleaning these (especially the thin one in back). If you are getting oil in your air cleaner consider replacing them. I have only been able to find them at the dealership.

I just pulled the ones on my 2000 yesterday. They put up a good fight, and I was sure I was going to break them (mine are plastic...)
Finally, the whole grommet came out w/ them. I checked 'em, cleaned 'em, separated them from the grommets, popped the grommets back in, then the fittings...

There are basically 3 different types of valve covers for the 4.0L. The renix (87-90), the HO (91-95) and the new style (96-up). The Renix are gromments, the HO's as I remember are elbow fittings that turn 90 degrees on and off. The 96 and up are the stamped steel valve covers. They have gromments that hold a 90 degree elbow. The Renix and HO's are cast aluminum. There might be some 95's that are cast aluminum that use the gromment and elbows from the later style of valve covers. Hope that helps. I have all three types at home.
Tom

Ya just pull them out they wont twist out believe me. you could even brake them if u know they are bad.

i have a 93' HO and on mine they twist out 90 degrees

75SV1 said:

There are basically 3 different types of valve covers for the 4.0L. The renix (87-90), the HO (91-95) and the new style (96-up). The Renix are gromments, the HO's as I remember are elbow fittings that turn 90 degrees on and off. The 96 and up are the stamped steel valve covers. They have gromments that hold a 90 degree elbow. The Renix and HO's are cast aluminum. There might be some 95's that are cast aluminum that use the gromment and elbows from the later style of valve covers. Hope that helps. I have all three types at home.
Tom

Click to expand...

I've got a Renix and 2 HOs at home and this sounds right to me. Tip = remove the hose from the elbow first so you can tell what's going on, it is hard to turn it 90 degrees with the hose attached. I turn the elbow a quarter turn and the HO's come off as easy as the valve cover cap but, on the 90 Renix (after I realize it's not going to come off the same way. . .), I twist back and forth gently pulling up. . . I pull it all loose and clean it with every oil change, I have removed these about a dozen times. Try it gently first, then if it won't go, force it - If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyhow. . . And it will cost you about $100 at the dealer for the entire assembly. . .

I went home to make sure. On the 95 VC I have they twist 90 degrees, try CCW. The rear elbow itself is about $10 from the dealership as I remember. I think I had the front one. Look at your elbow. If it has a rubber washer underneathe it, then it twist out. If it has a gromment around it, then it will pull out. It don't hurt to twist on either one. So twist first. And removing the hoses as mentioned before would be a good idea. If you try and break them off, some pieces will fall into the VC and thats not good.
Tom

I didn't mean to intentionally break it off, just that if it won't even twist, it may snap off - certainly avoid letting anything drop in the valve cover! At some point the whole assembly should be replaced as cleaning will only do so much. I've been putting off replacing the assembly on one of mine because my Stealership gets $100+ for the whole CCV assembly (but, they seem to have higher prices than many). I figure if individual components are breaking, it's a good time to replace it all.

3XJFamily,
I wasn't commenting on your post. A couple post up saying to pry it off. On the other style of VC, this might be correct. I agree sometimes you have to force stuff. Its hard to know when to and not to. Also, plastic parts can/do get brittle with time. Exspecially with the underhood temps of an Automobile. I remember paying about $10 for just the elbow, not the whole assembly. I think on my '88 hoses, each was either $34 or $64. But that was 4-5 years ago. The RENIX had a bit more complex front hose assembly and its two pieces. I put a '95 valve cover on the '88 motor. Works good. I forget where I saw a tech article to do this. Its a direct swap, except fitting of the hoses. I also did the MADXJ 99+ hose update. Had to cut the CCV rear hose into pieces and lengthen with fuel hose. Worked good. I'm updating the entire motor, drivetrain at this point.
Tom

Tom,
It's cool. Yeah, I was a little skeptical about that technique a few posts back. My 3 XJs total 550,000 miles so, I'm always fighting blow-by, working with these components. . . I keep 5 vehicles on the road, and have spent unnecessary maintenance money a few times because I forced something that didn't need to be forced. . .

Chuck