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Tricks for pulling a frozen Pitman Arm?

OverlandZJ

NAXJA Member # 101
Location
Bristol,PA
Pulling the Pitman Arm off my son's YJ, broke the pitman arm puller i had.

I'm thinking if i try heating the arm itself i may ruin the seal on the steering box. Any ideas?
 
Use Lots of PB, then


1. Tighten the puller down good and tight
2. Use a BFH to beat the hell out of the sides of the arm on the frozen splined area.
3. Repeat.

I've been told that a good frozen one will make a pretty big bang when it comes loose, so prepare yourself. Mine fell right off using the method above.
 
JnJ said:
Fork for the pitman arm? How's that work? I use a fork for the TRE, but not the arm....
Same here.
Tighten the puller REAL tight, then using a BFH whack the end of the stud on the puller where the wrench goes. Tighten a little more, whack again. Repeat as needed.
 
Are you using a pitman arm puller with side bolts. They go from arm to arm on the puller and keeps it tight against the pitman arm. Thus letting you tighten the puller much tighter than with a puller without the bolts.

Hitting the arm with a BFH can mess up the bushing/bearings if done too much. But some hitting is usually needed with stuck ones.


hinkley
 
Yep I borrowed BillR's puller and ended up using the pickle fork instead, only took aobut 6 raps with the hammer and it came right off after struggling for an hour or more with the puller. hit front back side adn passengers side.
 
xjnation said:
Yep I borrowed BillR's puller and ended up using the pickle fork instead, only took aobut 6 raps with the hammer and it came right off after struggling for an hour or more with the puller. hit front back side adn passengers side.
:gag: You used that spindly little thing on a pitman arm?? No wonder it broke! :laugh3:
 
yank the wheel back and fourth once you have the puller nice and tight that's what did it for me.
 
Mark Hinkley said:
Are you using a pitman arm puller with side bolts. They go from arm to arm on the puller and keeps it tight against the pitman arm. Thus letting you tighten the puller much tighter than with a puller without the bolts.

Hitting the arm with a BFH can mess up the bushing/bearings if done too much. But some hitting is usually needed with stuck ones.


hinkley

Here's the puller i broke..

http://www.skhandtool.com/productcatalog.cfm?cfid=2593442&cftoken=83275002

I was about to smack it with a hammer and thought let me give it one more lil crank....snap. Broke the ear off one side.

Mark, who puts out the puller you describe with the side bolts?
 
BTW...i have a few 2 jaw pullers but cant get the "ear" in between the arm and steering box. Figure i'll let it sit till i get a new puller.
 
John B said:
BTW...i have a few 2 jaw pullers but cant get the "ear" in between the arm and steering box. Figure i'll let it sit till i get a new puller.
Ya, dont waste your time with a 2 jaw puller.
 
JnJ said:
Fork for the pitman arm? How's that work? I use a fork for the TRE, but not the arm....

X2

i would not hit my steering box with a BFH EVER

heat up the pittman arm with a MAPP gass torch for a while and it will most likely just fall off... mine did...
 
The one I have is from Mac tools. Their site isn't working for me to find it for you.

That snap on one is nice also.

hinkley
 
Sometimes the"patience" method will work. My Mastercraft prop is REALLY hard to pull. I"VE beat on it with everything including a 10 pound BFH with no luck. Now I crank the puller down as hard as I can and then walk away and come back later and tighten it again. Keep doing that and eventually it pops off. First time it did that it popped off in the middle of the night. scared the crap outa everybody but me. I knew the sound of bronze hitting the concrete! The pitman arm will work the same way.
 
I used PB Blaster and a rental puller from the local Vatozone.....popped right off.
 
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