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235s rub LCAs when disco'd?

Timber

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Slohio
I HAVE searched. The responses don't seem to indicate whether or not they are disconnected when running 235s. By the way, I'm already running them (BFGs, and at 27 lbs. they actually measure 27.8"), but I just finished my homemade disco's on Monday. My XJ is a '99, so I have the smaller wheelwells. Without disconnecting, I've had no problems in terms of rubbing offroad. I've been trying to find WJ LCAs with the inward bend, but no luck--the local dealer wants $95 each.

Maybe instead of a fast answer, how can I test this at home? Keep in mind I live in ultra-flat NW Ohio. Obviously, I can get a wheel or two up, but then how can I turn to check for rubbing?

Edit: I can get a wheel or two up on ramps. There's really no place around to try this that I can think of--except maybe my in-laws' rear deck.
 
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there is a modification to switch the LCAs to those used on ZJs. It can be found here open the technical page and scroll down to the suspension system.

I researched a few weeks back and the local dealer charges $120 each for the LCAs.

Tom
 
Actually, it's for WJ arms--it's where I got the idea. Thanks anyway, though, because someone else may not be aware of that write up.
 
Go to an industrial park, you can usually find a concrete ramp around the loading docks.
 
RichP said:
Go to an industrial park, you can usually find a concrete ramp around the loading docks.

Giddyup. Good idea. I've decided to leave the rear anti-sway bar for now, but is there anything in particular I should do, or just fiddle around and see what happens?
 
Timber said:
Giddyup. Good idea. I've decided to leave the rear anti-sway bar for now, but is there anything in particular I should do, or just fiddle around and see what happens?

Go for it. You'll find the limits and what hits where.
 
Seems kind of odd, from my experiences 235's will rub the LCA's a bit disco'ed or otherwise but thats on earlier models. Also you say you've decided to keep the rear bar for now. Does this mean you are disconnecting the front but not the rear? I'm pretty sure if you're just gonna lose one you want it to be the rear.
 
Lose the rear, put 1 or 2 flat washer behind the steering stop bolts. Should take care of you. I ran 30's with a 2"BB and didn't rub at full flex.
 
tchase said:
Seems kind of odd, from my experiences 235's will rub the LCA's a bit disco'ed or otherwise but thats on earlier models.
That also depends on the rim and tire, too. I had the basic 15x6 steelies on my 89 XJ and the 235/75R15 BFG ATs rubbed even with the swaybar connected. The same tires on my bro-in-laws 91 XJ with 15x7 rims wouldn't rub at all except when well offroad.
 
Yucca-Man said:
That also depends on the rim and tire, too. I had the basic 15x6 steelies on my 89 XJ and the 235/75R15 BFG ATs rubbed even with the swaybar connected. The same tires on my bro-in-laws 91 XJ with 15x7 rims wouldn't rub at all except when well offroad.
That's actually kind of interesting as we have an '89 and a '91. We run 235/75R15 BFG MT's with factory gold-tone BBS-type 15x7's on the '89 resulting in the same amount of rub as the '91 with 30x9.50 15 BF MT's on factory 15x7 5spokes. Anyone know if there's a backspacing difference between these two rim types? BTW the '89 also rubs very slightly with it's winter wheels (225/75R15 retreads on factory 10 spoke alloys). Perhaps someone has messed with the steering stops on the '89 in the past?
 
Well, I have the 15x7 aluminum wheels. I actually haven't disconnected--yet. I just made them and put them on on Monday, but I've never had the tires rub anything even when offroad. Maybe I shouldn't even disconnect the front if I'm not lifted and if I keep the rear.
I just figured I'd keep the rear since I have a Limited with the stock leaves with only a 3 1/8" free arch (when new--I'd kill just to have that back) coded LL. That's the only real reason I planned to keep the rear bar--my leaf packs are just too soft--even when new they would've been. Keep in mind that only the UpCountry package (known as the OffRoad Group in the old days) came w/out a rear bar, and that was only because the added stiffness of the uprated leaves made it possible (in the engineers' eyes).
 
BTW, I appreciate no one chewing me out about this having already been discussed a billion times. As I said in my first post, I did search; just never found the actual answer to my Q.
 
Hey, Timber if you're going to keep it mostly stock for a while, one of the best mods you could make is taking the rear sway bar off! You will flex like mad and it won't drive any different unless you're a maniac on the highway (65+), so go for it. It only takes about 15 minutes to take it off and then you can wheel again! I run 235's on my 99 xj with the front still connected and I've had no rub ever. I'm shopping right now for some discos so I'll let ya'll know how it goes after that.
 
tchase said:
That's actually kind of interesting as we have an '89 and a '91. We run 235/75R15 BFG MT's with factory gold-tone BBS-type 15x7's on the '89 resulting in the same amount of rub as the '91 with 30x9.50 15 BF MT's on factory 15x7 5spokes. Anyone know if there's a backspacing difference between these two rim types? BTW the '89 also rubs very slightly with it's winter wheels (225/75R15 retreads on factory 10 spoke alloys). Perhaps someone has messed with the steering stops on the '89 in the past?
No, they should both be 5.25" BS. I never dug into it too far, but my take on it was that the 15x6 steelies made the sidewall balloon just that much more that they rubbed the control arm at full steering lock when flexed.

I wouldn't be surprised if there was a difference in the steering stops either though...
 
coderedxj said:
Hey, Timber if you're going to keep it mostly stock for a while, one of the best mods you could make is taking the rear sway bar off! You will flex like mad and it won't drive any different unless you're a maniac on the highway (65+), so go for it. It only takes about 15 minutes to take it off and then you can wheel again! I run 235's on my 99 xj with the front still connected and I've had no rub ever. I'm shopping right now for some discos so I'll let ya'll know how it goes after that.
I'll probably just unbolt the rear links and leave it there for now; strapped out of the way, of course. Actually, another reason I haven't done it is that I haven't added to the rear bumpstops yet. I have 1 1/4" square stock all cut and drilled but I keep breaking the bolts off just below the head, so I don't know what size/pitch they are. I suppose I could just use self tappers and move the mount forward or backward a half inch or so. I might be going out this Sunday, so I'll let you know likewise.
 
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