Spools and lockouts

I was wondering. If a person put a spool in a D30 and has a hub conversion, is it okay to run with only one hub locked and then lock in the other side before an obstacle?

Also, opinions on spooling a 30.

Thanks,
Crunch

What is "Spooling" anyways, just for my dumbass with brainfreeze.

Mike that's what most of the folks that are welded/ spooled in the front do. I'm too lazy and never seem to unlock. Of course, I'm not running a 30 either.

I wouldn't waste the money on a spool, just weld it up. How often do you see a carrier blow anyhow(even if it is a 30)?

Sean

Okay, I just found out nobody makes a spool for the D30.

My question now is, can I run with one hub unlocked with a locker until I come to an obstacle where I need it to be locked.

I know this may sound like a stupid question, but I don't like the idea of the extra strain on the steering components running fully locked and moreso, I have the 242 t-case and still like the idea of its streetability in winter if I could run with only one hub locked. TIA,
Crunch

giranger, By 'spooling' a d30, I mean running a full spool in it. I don't think its a tech term, just how I say it.

Thanks Sean,

So welding the 30 and running one hub locked is not a bad thing?
Just wanting to make sure.

I'm fixin to pm you.

Crunch

I ran that way for a while... welded Dana 30 and have my front axle disconnect on a manual vacuum switch. I only really engaged it once and a while on the trail when I really needed the extra traction.

There are a few things to consider....

If your jeep as the disconnect front axle your front driveshaft isn't spinning when driving in 2wd. If it happens to be out of balance you won't really notice UNTIL you weld up the front or install a locker as it will now be spinning all the time. Vibrations aren't only specific to out of balance shafts either. If you have more than 4" of lift and don't have a comprimise between caster and pinion angles you might get a vibe from having the pinion pointing downward too much (too much caster angle for your driveshaft angle)

I'd recommend getting a manual activated disconnect on your front axle.

Also, things like carrier bearings will wear quicker and if you have one that is slightly worn it will become evident very quickly.

If you're running the 260 front u-joints expect to brake them. I was running 260 joints with a welded front and 33" BFG MT's and I started going through them pretty quickly... and I'm not talking "hard core" stuff here either. They just couldn't handle the extra stress. So if you're going to lock or weld make sure you put in some shafts with 297 joints. By the way, these were offered on certain XJ's in the late 80's and early 90's with ABS brakes and also on the 94-95 YJ's.. not all, but some. The good thing with the shafts from these vehicles is they are still the disconnect style and not the long one piece style like the newer TJ and XJ shafts.

With that said... even with the 297 shafts a Dana 30 can only really handle maximum 36's open and maybe 35's locked without fairly regular breakage.

Crunch said:

Thanks Sean,

So welding the 30 and running one hub locked is not a bad thing?
Just wanting to make sure.

I'm fixin to pm you.

Crunch

Click to expand...

Mike, I wouldn't recommend welding the D30. In fact, we now have a rule that we won't run with a rig with a welded D30. The probability of breaking a front axle joint, or worse, is just too high. We had all the bad experience we can stomach on the Rubicon a few years ago......I'm sure you've heard the story.

I also would not recommend running with one hub unlocked on the trail, if you did weld it. You would be asking too much of the one axle that's engaged when you run up against any rock or ledge, that you may not even see. We also had a bad experience with this scenario........won't do it again.

I hate to say it, but if you want to join us in the future, don't weld up your D30. A LockRight or something similar is cheap, just get one.

With my statement, I'm assuming that since Mike is going through the trouble of getting the hub conversion, he's also going to get the proper alloy shafts. I still say go for it, besides we'll have him talked into a front 44 by next year anyhow. He's gotta match up to that shaved 60 out back

Sean

Well, I have the hub conversion, the alloy shafts, and Chris at ARB finally got my gift certificate in the mail (it only took 2 1/2 weeks to get there), so yesterday I ordered what I need to have my ARBs front and rear. I am putting the HP in and trussing it.
If I end up doing the 44 front next year, it'll be in another XJ and it will be full width. It will be a 2 door and on 40s and those axles will prolly be spooled.
Hey Sean, You should check out CO 4x4s sight, they have several sets of big swampers for sale on there right now. Did you get my PM?

Thanks for the input,
Crunch

The HP 30 with an ARB and alloy shafts will hold up pretty well, actually. Are you also going to spring for some CTM's?

Of course, I've seen you drive, so maybe even the D60 won't hold up!!

"Yeah, I'm going to try that........OK, let me give it some more gas!"

The CTMs are weighing heavy on my mind Where can I find the best prices on them?

Yeah, I hate hearing things like 'you won't make it' Being from a muddy place where the skinny pedal is your friend, I figure as long as its not bouncing, stand awn it It makes for some kewl video footage at Mickeys Hot Tub. Yes, I've had the preview and you guys are gonna love it. Good work Troy and Shari

Crunch