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Remote progressive door unlock...

mikeny59

NAXJA Member #300
Location
NY and/or Fl.
I'm installing a remote start/door unlock/lock unit that can unlock the driver's door first and then the rest of the doors/hatch.

Problem is, the way I interpret the FSM schematics, this can't be done. All the doors locks are on the same circuit.

My '98 Classic did not come with the remote door opener, nor does it have that sensor in the overhead console.

Is there any way I can overide the harness and take advantage of the progressive lock/unlock deal, or do I have to luck/unlock everything at once?

Thanks, Mike #300
 
I am not a wiring guru but I would think that if you got a relay from say autozone then all you would have to do is break the other locks from the driver door lock and run power to the rest through the relay and send signal to the relay via the second unlock button... you will need to buy the relay which has the dual #87 terminals so that you can run signal from the master door switch as well.

AGAIN I AM NO GENIUS!

This is just a quick thought off the top of my head as I have never installed one of these myself nor even seen a scnematic.


Anyone else got an opinion please chime in.....
 
here is the deal with the new stuff, there is one wire that controls the lock and unlock, you will need two relays, and two resistors, now I'm taking these off the top of my head, but I recently did a couple of dakota's and ram trucks, they use a 330 ohm for lock, and 820 for unlock. you take both these resistors and splice them into the one wire that controls the locks, then the other end will go to pin 85 or 86 on the relay, each resistor to its own realy, the other pin (85, 86) needs to be grounded, (doors are locked / unlocked using ground through the resistors) pin 87 or 30 will then need to be connected to the keyless entry, and if this signal is a ground coming from the keyless entry, you will need to hook the other pin (30 or 87) to battery source. if the keyless signal is posative, you will need to ground the other pin (30, 87)

like I said, I dont know if the dodge trucks and cherokee use the same resistance.



ok, so I just read your post again, you need to go talk to a shop that installs the stuff and get one of their wireing diagrams, its all done though resistance to ground using diffrent resistors like I explained above, and the single pulse for drivers door only is a diffrent resistance / wire, than the second pulse that does the rest of the doors.
 
It's funny, this Viper unit uses about five separate plug-in harnesses, not counting the valet button, antenna, led, etc.. leads.

It also comes with another harness that consists of two relays (in one enclosure), and a selection of resistors ranging from 249 ohms to 2k ohms, about twenty in all. They're included to bypass some factory alarm and/or immobilizers, and depending on make, anti-theft systems. And to overide factory door unlock/lock systems, but not to convert factory l/u systems.

According to the directions, unless you have one of these factory options or a "Pass Key" key like GM uses, you don't need the relay harness and resistors. I'll keep this stuff of course though.

I'm just going to install as usual if I can't figure it out, but leave the involved wires easily accessible in case my i.q. suddenly shoots up :laugh3:

Thanks for the replies, they are much appreciated.

Mike #300
 
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