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Rotted out Floor boards...

MAXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Massachussetts
Hey guys, im new here. I recently bought a 93 XJ with the 4.0 HO for $500. The thing is great. I have a 4.5" Rubicon Express lift sitting in my basement waiting for it, but im not so sure it is even worth lifting anymore. The floor under the passenger side above the exhaust pipe and muffler is gone. Not rusty, completely gone. I imagine it must have been from an exhaust leak, but as of right now i only have the frame rail holding it together on the passenger side. Other than that this jeep is great and looks great too, so i dont want to just junk it. I looked at a friends jeep and his is all rotted in the same spot, but he at least still has some metal. So i am wondering, is this common? Anyone else out there have this problem? How did you fix it? I was gonna weld it myself, but i think it is more than i can handle so i might see if a tech school will do it. Thanks.
 
Rusty floors, and especially in just that area, are very common. My stepson's 93 lost a length of floor all the way from front to under the rear seat, well over a foot wide in places, even working its way up the center hump. What you do about it depends in some degree on how long you expect to keep the vehicle, what your local laws are, and how pristine you want it to be in the end. Welding in a new floor is oviously the nicest solution, and the most likely to satisfy finicky inspectors, but very time consuming or expensive depending on who does it, and in my opinion not worth it if the rest of the Jeep is old and shabby. That section of floor is not of great structural importance, and unless you cut the entire floor out you might find yourself having to repeat the job every couple of years in new spots. If you live in rust country, chances are very good that every time you look underneath, you'll see a spot that is either just newly rusted through or about to go.

What I did on the 93 was first to cut out the bad metal back to good sound stuff, and then take large pieces of my favorite repair material - old steel shower stall walls - and make plates which I laid on with a good overlap and screwed down with many self-tapping sheet metal screws. I like the small self-drilling ones with hex heads, which zoom right in with a cordless drill/driver. Both before screwing down and after, I liberally applied my favorite Vermont redneck undercoating - brushable roofing tar. The result was a tight, waterproof patch that will probably outlast the Jeep, which is now, after all, 12 years old, with well over 200 thousand miles on it.

So look carefully at your rig, and determine how rusty the rest of it is. If it's not too bad, I say go for it in whatever way you think is the least ruinous, and enjoy it. The engine and drivetrain will probably last just about forever, so if the body doesn't look too bad, fix the floors. You can always transfer the lift stuff later if you need to. But I would advise that unless you intend to make this a really carefully built, custom rig, don't put huge amounts of labor into making the floors of a 500 dollar Jeep as good as new. Make them safe and functional.

Mind you, if you really do want to do a good job, and in the process to learn a valuable skill, you might consider pricing having it done by someone else, and then use that price as the justification for purchasing a nice new wire-feed welder. The Jeep then becomes a practice tool for learning this valuable new skill. By the time you're done welding in new floors, you'll either have melted it down to a pile of crinkly rust or you'll have gotten pretty good at it. You'll probably end up owning the welder and the welded Jeep for less than a body shop would have charged to do the job, and you'll have a skill for life.

I'm only half joking here. Some years ago, I used the restoration of a rolled-over junkyard van as the excuse to buy a MIG welder. The van cost 1800 bucks, the roof another 200, and the welder 600, plus, of course, some assorted parts, glass and paint. The finished van was worth over 6000. I estimate that the day I put the roof on and welded it up, the welder paid for itself.
 
Vermont redneck undercoating.....I thought that was "maple syrup".....just kidding......roofing tar , I think, does work good.....I scraped,sanded, primed, and undercoatd the snot out my floors last year just to find rust coming through it this year, except for a spot that had roofing tar on it.....guess i'll be doing it again when warm weather gets here......now if I can find some nice shingles...lol
 
mines rusted their too, not guite that bad, but still rusted out. plan on fixing it when i pull the carpet up some day to put a cage in. but it hasent seemed to affect streangh yet....even at full flex, myrear hatch still opens.
 
mine is rusted out there too, it is a '92. i think they all so it because of the firewall leak that they all seem to have. i pulled up my carpet to find spots of rust from the firewall to the seam near the rear seat. it is not that bad, though one hole is about the size of a softball. i plan on using por-15 and fiberglass i think, since the jeep is still structurally sound. no about that leak...
i tore out all the insulation to help the carpet dry faster after it rains, but the firewall mat is still soaked, need to fix the leak.
 
Well, the rest of the jeep is really nice. Everyone that has seen it has been very surprised seeing as though i told them i was bringing home a $500 POS. The doors have a little rust, but thats not a big deal. I do have a wire feed welder, its flux core and not gas shielded though. I WAS going to do the job myself because when i bought it the reason i got it down to $500 (it was $1500) was because i got under it and saw some good sized holes in the passenger and drivers side between the rockers and frame rails. However, after i brought it home, i got it up on ramps to change the oil and saw the section after the frame rails missing. I was going to weld in new metal but the problem is it is welded halfway up the hump. So then i was thinking maybe take some sheet metal and pop rivet it and form the curve then weld some more structural members in and either roofing tar or POR-15 over that. I just wanted to see what you guys thought about how much that would affect the structural integrity. I am going to see if a local technical college will do it for me though, because that would save me the trouble (i wouldn't have the time to do it until well into spring, and that was when i wanted to start lifting it). Thanks for the help though, i will post some pictures when i get a chance.
 
A little overkill, but here's how I repaired the rot in my passenger side floor. I welded in new pieces of steel where I cut out the rotted sections. After welding I washed everything down (top and bottom) with phosphoric acid, then paint reducer. All the weld seems (top and bottom) was then sealed with polyurethane metal caulk, and finally painted with POR-15.

Will the repair out last the Jeep? Oh yeah.

Will I ever have to worry about the repair rusting? Hell no.

Is there rot on the driver side now? Damn straight.

--Matt
 
I had the same problem on my MJ, but it was the driverside floorpan (specifically, the lack of it....) I second Matthew's method as well, and that's what I did using 22 gauge sheet steel and a couple of OEM floor sections I cut out from a junkyard MJ (sawzalls rock!). You can cut/overlap smaller pieces better than trying to massage a large sheet of metal, and hold them in with hex head screws using a cordless drill. I ended up using about 100 or so #8X1/2" self-tappers, but I drilled pilot holes w/ a 1/8" bit. On a tip from somebody else, I used roof flashing sealer I got @ Lowe's...about $4 a tube, but worth it. After the repair, I did the entire floor with 3 coats of spray-on bedliner and let it dry for 2 days before putting it all back together.
Have fun!
Jeff
 
i have the same problem, Drivers side, passenger side, above gas tank, what i did was get a couple of Stainless Steel Street signs( i used to work for the local DPW)beat them with a hammer untill they sorta met the contour on the hump, zipped them in with self tappers, roofing tar, then i stuck paper grocery bags to the tar, so if i ever do have to take the carpet up again i can...
Bear
 
Yeah, the thing has no floor right now at all, insulation is sitting on the muffler, thats the problem. If the tech school can't do it i think im gonna take some 3/16" metal cut into like inch wide strips and bent to form the floor shape welded from the framerail to the existing floor (halfway up the hump), much like ribs in boat building, then pop-rivet sheet metal to that to form a more solid floor and roofing tar over that. I just want it to be strong, no style points here.
 
MAXJ said:
Yeah, the thing has no floor right now at all, insulation is sitting on the muffler, thats the problem. If the tech school can't do it i think im gonna take some 3/16" metal cut into like inch wide strips and bent to form the floor shape welded from the framerail to the existing floor (halfway up the hump), much like ribs in boat building, then pop-rivet sheet metal to that to form a more solid floor and roofing tar over that. I just want it to be strong, no style points here.

That's a good idea, but I think you'll do better with screws than pop rivets. You might even consider machine screws with nuts to attach the flooring to the ribs, for strength, and then just screw (or rivet if you must...) where the floor panels overlap.
 
Same problem on a '94, though it doesn't sound as bad as yours.

I removed all the carpet, and donated that to the local landfill. Carpet is dumb anyway. I cut out the large rusty parts to clean metal, and ground out the smaller holes.

I used a sheet of 18-ga mild steel which I hammered in place to shape, and then had a good friend teach me how to weld. I used a gas-shielded wirefeed, and it worked fine. My friend pooled weld material on the smaller holes to close, then I ground them down.

Undercoated the bottom with a can of 3M undercoating from the auto store, and Herculinered the inside. I love it, and can wipe up any water that makes it in.

When I find plugs I like, I'll cut drain holes in the floor.
 
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