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D44 vs. D60 dilemma

D

davidt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Reno, NV
Getting together parts for my full size mj project and I have run into a problem. I can get a built ford hp d44, with hi steer, arb, and 4.88's or I can get a D60 out of an early 70's ford that has drum brakes and is completely stock. I want to run 35's and I will be doing rock crawling on trails like fordyce, the con, etc.
The next question is what is
1. the built 44 worth and
2. the stock 60
Thanks for your input.
David
 
davidt said:
Getting together parts for my full size mj project and I have run into a problem. I can get a built ford hp d44, with hi steer, arb, and 4.88's or I can get a D60 out of an early 70's ford that has drum brakes and is completely stock. I want to run 35's and I will be doing rock crawling on trails like fordyce, the con, etc.
The next question is what is
1. the built 44 worth and
2. the stock 60
Thanks for your input.
David
Click to expand...

does the 44 have alloy shafts
 
davidt said:
Getting together parts for my full size mj project and I have run into a problem. I can get a built ford hp d44, with hi steer, arb, and 4.88's or I can get a D60 out of an early 70's ford that has drum brakes and is completely stock. I want to run 35's and I will be doing rock crawling on trails like fordyce, the con, etc.
The next question is what is
1. the built 44 worth and
2. the stock 60
Thanks for your input.
David
Click to expand...


Those early Ford 60's are low pinion, drum brake, and kind of hard to find parts for. Verify the spline count on that early 70's 60, some of them are funky.

You didn't mention tire size. 36" and less is 44 territory, greater than that and you are in 60 land. Not a funky 60, but a real 35 spline unit with 332x U-joints.

CRASH
 
yeah, I was just reading billa vista's 60 article, and it says that the early 70'ford d60s are junk. So it looks like the 44 is what I am going to go with. Thanks for your help.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but what rearend would you match it with if you went with the front 60? Ive been looking around and 14 bolts can be found for cheap and after you shave them a bit, they are a great axle. 60's seem pricey compared to the 14's, so on a trail rig with 38+" tires, would a 14 bolt be the best way to go?
 
It just depends on who you ask, 14 bolts are stronger but hang wayyyyy down unless you shave them. Dana 60 rears can be found for cheap as well, and are also very strong. Since you are running 38" plus tires, it is borderline. good luck! David
 
For 35" tires you'll be much happier with the HP44. Seriously consider some chrmo shafts for it, though, even if you use 760x axle u-joints.
 
davidt said:
the guy that built them said he ran 38" crawlers on them and only broke u-joints. Then again, he had a sb350...
Click to expand...

Broken U-joints = broken axleshafts.

760's in chromo's will break the joint, but not the shaft (95% of the time.)

For 35's, you are much better off with the 44.

CRASH
 
woody431 said:
Not to hijack the thread, but what rearend would you match it with if you went with the front 60? Ive been looking around and 14 bolts can be found for cheap and after you shave them a bit, they are a great axle. 60's seem pricey compared to the 14's, so on a trail rig with 38+" tires, would a 14 bolt be the best way to go?
Click to expand...
I run a hp60 front ,35 spline outters, with a 9" 35 spline rear(35 spline shafts are the same size as a 14bolt) with 38.5 SX's no problems at all, the 14 bolt is a boat anchor compared to a shaved 9".
 
Depends on how much you drive this thing. I live in the mountains (just the other side of you), but drive to a fair number of trail outings. I have 4.88's and 35's with a deep OD NV 4500 (.73), and I turn 2,800 RPM on the stroker all day long. The stroker pulls very well with 4.88's.

If I had a stock 4.0, I'd want 5.13's.

CRASH
 
another question, what rear end came in a 1984 ford f350? Is it the sterling 10.25" or a dana 60? Also, did all f350 4x4's come with a d60 front? I know this one is a lot better than the one mentioned earlier in the thread (kingpin, hp, higher spline count, disks) thanks. David
 
Some early 80's F-350's came with a TTB Dana 50. Most early 80's F-350's came with a D-70 rear. I think the switch to the Sterling came in 1984 or early '85.

CRASH (self-styled, self-appointed 80's Ford expert)
 
Crash, master of the 80's ford, had a quick question (for anyone else for that matter), I am probably going to go with the d44 and a 9" rear, do I need new d-shafts for the axles, or can I use the old ones?
 
davidt said:
Crash, master of the 80's ford, had a quick question (for anyone else for that matter), I am probably going to go with the d44 and a 9" rear, do I need new d-shafts for the axles, or can I use the old ones?
Click to expand...

It all depends on your lift height, where you place your axles, what your old axles were, and if you've modified your shafts previously. Most 9" rears came with a 1330 variant as the OEM shaft U-joint. This will need to be switched to a 1310 to fit your OEM D-shaft.

I budget for driveshaft work as necessary when doing a swap, and am pleasantly surprised if it's not needed.

CRASH
 
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