Shock Replacement Question

I need to replace my worn out shocks on my 1989 Jeep Cherokee. I went to the auto parts store and got some but I am having second thoughts. I don't do a whole lot of offroad stuff other than running out in the brush and a few backroads hunting. Mostly it will be highway stuff. I purchased the Monroe Gas-Matic LT's and was wondering if these will do the job and hold up well or should I tak them back and go to something heavier. Please post so thoughts if you would.

I have a 88 XJ and replaced the factory shocks at 115,000 miles. I drove it with Monroe matics for 30,000 miles then installed Monroe Reflex and have 10,000 on them now.

I really like the Reflex shocks, they were Monroe's answer to the edlebrock shock. My buddy said with the monroe matics my XJ would down the road but be "nervous". With the reflex it rode firm and smooth.

People may say other shocks are better but I'll replace these reflex shocks with another set of reflex when the time comes.

I do mostly highway but I do take it into the woods to get to my 80 acres in the Missouri Ozarks. I have to drive down old logging roads to get to part of the property. Just remember with a vehicle as old as yours you may want to consider replacing control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. Each new item will improve the ride by restoring it back to factory condition.

soak all the shock bolts with PB plaster for about a week before the install. on an 89, those bolts are very rusty and will snap. be prepared to break a bolt or two.

The rear upper shock mounts will most probably break since they are lowe grade hardware from the factory. When it happens you have a few options to fix, but the best in my opinion is the install new, better bolts from the top down. The only downside is that you need to cut out two sections of your floor panel. Somewhere on here is a link to a great set of instructions for doing so. I did a a few months back on my 96

Breaking bolts is a given. Definetly plan on a few if not all of them busting right off. I used a butterfly impact wrench and got one started...but it snapped anyway. Very easy to fix tho... If you have an air chisel, just punch the old nuts off their spot welds. If not, a hammer and chisel will work too. Then just take a new nut...with a flare at the bottom, and tape it to a box wrench. You can easily put the nut right over the whole and bolt the shock back up. Thats the part that I thought would take me hours to fix...but realy only took me and a buddy about 10 minutes tops. Good luck.

Justin

Bilstein HD shocks all the way!

Hello,

When using a chisel to break off the welded nuts do you hammer upwards on the broken bolt stub or do you have to put the chisel in from the side and knock them off sideways? What if the bolt is broken off flush, would you use a punch to hammer the broken bolt/nut upwards? Thanks!

JamesBond

pancake said:

Bilstein HD shocks all the way!

Click to expand...

x2, I couldn't be more happy with mine.

DO THIS!!!!

ghettocruiser said:

Breaking bolts is a given. Definetly plan on a few if not all of them busting right off. I used a butterfly impact wrench and got one started...but it snapped anyway. Very easy to fix tho... If you have an air chisel, just punch the old nuts off their spot welds. If not, a hammer and chisel will work too. Then just take a new nut...with a flare at the bottom, and tape it to a box wrench. You can easily put the nut right over the whole and bolt the shock back up. Thats the part that I thought would take me hours to fix...but realy only took me and a buddy about 10 minutes tops. Good luck.

Justin

Click to expand...

NOT THIS!!!

edmaude said:

The rear upper shock mounts will most probably break since they are lowe grade hardware from the factory. When it happens you have a few options to fix, but the best in my opinion is the install new, better bolts from the top down. The only downside is that you need to cut out two sections of your floor panel. Somewhere on here is a link to a great set of instructions for doing so. I did a a few months back on my 96

Click to expand...

JamesBond said:

Hello,

When using a chisel to break off the welded nuts do you hammer upwards on the broken bolt stub or do you have to put the chisel in from the side and knock them off sideways? What if the bolt is broken off flush, would you use a punch to hammer the broken bolt/nut upwards? Thanks!

JamesBond

Click to expand...

Yup you got it you hammer up till it either flops out of the way or breaks off. the tape a nut and washer the the open side of a wrench and fish it in there and insert the bolt from the bottom no need to pull the carpet up and cut holes in the floor.

What shocks for a stock? KYB (monomax or gas-a-just), Rancho RS5000, Monroe reflex, or ???. Looking for improved highway ride( current shocks are DEAD ),better backroads handling and trailer towing(not very often). Looking to spend up to $50 a shock. I know this is kind of a wide open question but could use the help. And yes I did a search but most topics seem to be for lifted vehicles (3" lift hopefully someday).

I have some Explorer Pro Comp MX6 monotube 6 way adjustable shocks with about 20,000 miles on them for sale on ebay for $120. They were incredibly durable, had six different ride settings, and handled like a BMW. I am only selling because I lifted it! Check them out on ebaymotors.com.

bj-666 glad to hear that you had luck with the hammer and chisel method. I know of quite a few people that have done the "cut the floor" upper shock bolt removal, but I agree that it is a last resort. Hey man, whatever works

I had the monroe reflex shocks on my 97 Dodge Dakota, they were nice, took a little abuse and stood right back up on the highway. I would recommend the Reflex.

Cory