Fabbers...build a trackbar?

[BillR]

I'm not quite happy with how my shortened trackbar fits, so instead of cutting/welding for the 3rd time I want to make one from scratch. I'd like to make it adjustable without removing it, similar to a tie rod. I have the tubing, and will probably use a Currie JJ in the frame end as it fits the RE HD bracket I have. I need something for the axle end that I can get or have cut to a left-hand thread. I thought about a Boulder Bushing from Poison Spyder, but it looks a little wide. Has anyone used a heim down there on the axle?
Other ideas?
I know I could do it much faster by "adjusting" mine again, but I need a new project! :laugh3: :repair:

[ChiXJeff]

Call JKS and see if you can get just the axle end piece w/ rubber bushing from one of the adjustable trackbars.

[BillR]

Call JKS and see if you can get just the axle end piece w/ rubber bushing from one of the adjustable trackbars.
Nice idea, but I need a LH thread if I can get one...

[Jes]

I'm going with a LH threaded heim on mine. May go with a heim at the frame end too if I end up having to modify the RE trac bar bracket for clearance.

[BillR]

I'm going with a LH threaded heim on mine. May go with a heim at the frame end too if I end up having to modify the RE trac bar bracket for clearance.
Then just add a couple of misalignment bushings to fill the space?

[XJoachim]

Yep, thats what i did, Heim joints on both ends, RE HD bracket, straight tube 1.5" x .25" DOM

[CRASH]

Then just add a couple of misalignment bushings to fill the space?

I narrowed the RE XD mount so it barely cleared a 3/4" heim. I needed the room, as my axle is moved forward 1.5", and the axle bridge was smacking the RE bracket pretty hard while desert racing.

Oh, and I broke the smallish OEM bolt as well.

I now run two heims, 1.25" x .25" DOM.

CRASH

[BillR]

I was planning on using this (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1263) for the frame end, as it's the right size for the RE bracket.
Good idea or...?

[CRASH]

Yeah, those will work fine. The only thing is that they are hard to adjust for wear when compared to the RE joints and their threaded bodies. Mine was ALWAYS loosening up when I had a heim on the axle and the RE at the frame.

CRASH

[BillR]

Yeah, those will work fine. The only thing is that they are hard to adjust for wear when compared to the RE joints and their threaded bodies. Mine was ALWAYS loosening up when I had a heim on the axle and the RE at the frame.

CRASH
The RE joint would loosen, or the locking nut?
If RE made a small joint with the threaded stud, I'd jump on it.

[CRASH]

The HDPE inside the joint would wear quickly, had to keep tightening the threads (two ro three times a year). I just don't think the small RE joints are meaty enough for the destruction the WCGIC subjects them to :) . I also wallowed out the 7/16" hole several times (weld and redrill was my fix).

A high quality heim seems to work better in that application, and I can run a 9/16" bolt through it, which gives me great piece of mind considering I've seen several broken bolts up there.

CRASH

[Goatman]

Bill, I run a Currie JJ at the frame and a heim joint at the axle, and have for quite awhile. I haven't had any loosening issues with either. I do have a 2.5" JJ, though, with a 9/16" bolt. The axle end is a 3/4 heim sleeved down to 5/8. You don't need to buy the JJ with a bolt already welded to the JJ, unless they make one in 2 1/2", just do it yourself. I grind the head of the bolt to fit, then weld it to the JJ housing tube, and then put the JJ together. Use a 3/4 fine thread bolt, and then get a left hand heim joint for the other end.....just like you were thinking.

[BillR]

Bill, I run a Currie JJ at the frame and a heim joint at the axle, and have for quite awhile. I haven't had any loosening issues with either. I do have a 2.5" JJ, though, with a 9/16" bolt. The axle end is a 3/4 heim sleeved down to 5/8. You don't need to buy the JJ with a bolt already welded to the JJ, unless they make one in 2 1/2", just do it yourself. I grind the head of the bolt to fit, then weld it to the JJ housing tube, and then put the JJ together. Use a 3/4 fine thread bolt, and then get a left hand heim joint for the other end.....just like you were thinking.
My thinking for using the 2" JJ was that it already fits into the RE HD trackbar bracket. To use the 2.5" one would require "remanufacturing" the bracket.
Worth doing?

[xj92]

The Teraflex track bar I use is adjustable without removing the bar, which means one end has left hand threads, but I'm not sure which one. They use a standard bushing on the axle end though (or a poly bushing, etc.). Just FYI.

[CRASH]

My thinking for using the 2" JJ was that it already fits into the RE HD trackbar bracket. To use the 2.5" one would require "remanufacturing" the bracket.
Worth doing?


Are you *POSITIVE* your axle doesn't hit the track bar bracket under full compression? If you need to remanufacture, I'd go to a heim, since you an narrow the mount and gain some clearance.

CRASH

[BillR]

Are you *POSITIVE* your axle doesn't hit the track bar bracket under full compression? If you need to remanufacture, I'd go to a heim, since you an narrow the mount and gain some clearance.

CRASH
It looks like it clears, but I can't be sure until I wheel it. The trackbar's hitting the optional brace that attaches to the RE bracket and goes to the other framerail.
The UCA mount would hit the trackbar before the "truss" hits the bracket, if that makes sense. It looks like it's be simple to grind out a little edge of the truss IF there was a clearance issue there.

[CRASH]

It looks like it clears, but I can't be sure until I wheel it. The trackbar's hitting the optional brace that attaches to the RE bracket and goes to the other framerail.
The UCA mount would hit the trackbar before the "truss" hits the bracket, if that makes sense. It looks like it's be simple to grind out a little edge of the truss IF there was a clearance issue there.

You live in Arizona, only an hour or two from Table Mesa, so you have no excuse for NOT wheeling it. Get to it.

Are you coming to BOTW?

CRASH

[BillR]

You live in Arizona, only an hour or two from Table Mesa, so you have no excuse for NOT wheeling it. Get to it.

Are you coming to BOTW?

CRASH
I'm gonna drive down for the BBQ and maybe watch a trail, but Goatman "advised" me to be a spectator on this one! :laugh3:
I'm still breaking in the r&p, so I've been taking it easy so far. I'll get to the wheeling!

[Goatman]

It looks like it clears, but I can't be sure until I wheel it. The trackbar's hitting the optional brace that attaches to the RE bracket and goes to the other framerail.
The UCA mount would hit the trackbar before the "truss" hits the bracket, if that makes sense. It looks like it's be simple to grind out a little edge of the truss IF there was a clearance issue there.

You guys and your drivers side upper control arm.

Just get rid of it!! No more clearance issues.........


:D



Andy, wouldn't it be nice to see Bill's pretty rig on Anaconda? :wow:


:D

[Gojeep]

Just throwing this out there, but could you use the adjustment sleeve and TRE of the centre link where it attaches to the pitman arm? Depending on your welding skills, you could use the rest on the link as well seeing that it is solid cast steel I think and weld on a bottom mount of some description.

[XJoachim]

I don't think this is a good idea, there are forces that z-shape a trac bar (OK, Rustys, but ....) and i don't think this will be holding up to it.

[CRASH]

You guys and your drivers side upper control arm.

Just get rid of it!! No more clearance issues.........


:D



Andy, wouldn't it be nice to see Bill's pretty rig on Anaconda? :wow:


:D

That's exactly what I was hoping to induce, but alas, Bill has caught on to my little game.....

CRASH

[BillR]

That's exactly what I was hoping to induce, but alas, Bill has caught on to my little game.....

CRASH
Come on, it ain't even paid for yet! :laugh3: