How hard is it to replace this stuff?

Dropped my XJ at the Chrysler Dealer to get my mirrors looked at so naturally those dimwits decide to do a vehicle inspection and threaten to fail me(even though it already passed) so I told them I wheeled it heavily the last 2 months(which I have, somewhat)...ANYWAY here's what they think needs replacing:
Upper/Lower Ball Joints(thought only IFS rigs had these?)
L&R Front Axle U-Joints
Front Rotors
Sway Bar Links And Bushings(If I replaced it w/a quick-disconnect would that solve the problem?)
They said my t-case is leaking and it's possible the out-put seal

They said my front ball-joints and U-Joints had alot of play, could either of those cause a shimmy at about 55mph?

Thanks

Mad XJ does have an article on ball joint replacement. You will need to get some special tools to do it. Rotors are easy and you might as well do pads while you are at it. The sway bar end links would be replaced with disc's but you would still need the main bushings for the bar to body mount. Axle shaft U-joints aren't all that common to go out but depending on you ability you might just pull the shafts and have a driveline shop do it.

I work at a Jeep dealer, and I can say we are obligated to inform you of these things, believe me we don't want to tell you you need a buch of stuff just cuz--If your ball joints fail and you careen off the highway and kill someone and try to say "but they didnt say they were bad" we don't want to be responsible. If you have that much free play you better replace them.

Yes both the u-joits and the ball joints could cause a shimmy. The rear output isn't that difficult and neither are axle u-joints, ball joints are time consuming and a pain, and I agree to do pads and rotors at the same time.

To begin with, ball joints certainly could cause a shimmy, and also bad tire wear. Usually, the upper goes first, and will tend to cause wear on the inner edges of the tire. However, it's pretty uncommon for them all to go at once, and although heavy wheeling is undoubtedly a factor, they are often good for a couple of hundred thousand miles, so the first thing I'd do is get a second opinion. If you search the archives here, you should find various posts advising how to test for play yourself. Special equipment needed for this, and it's likely to go slowly.

Axle shaft u-joints are less durable, and if you live in the rust belt, they may fail every 50 thousand miles or so even if you don't wheel hard. They will not usually contribute to shimmy going straight, but can cause pulsing, shimmy and noise when turning. The parts aren't expensive. Can be done in back yard, with hammers and sockets and the like, but if you do the ball joints, you can use the same tool to extract the u-joints. If the ball joints are bad, combine this job with them, because both jobs require you to remove the hub and axle. So if the ball joints are bad, and the u-joints are anything but perfect, do them anyway, because it's only a little more labor and 15 or 20 bucks a side for the parts.

Rotors are easy, but before you replace them, use your own judgment on whether the brakes are working all right. How did they work before you went in for the mirrors? Not a bad idea to do, though, not too expensive, and new brakes are good, but don't waste your money either.

The sway bar bushings and links are cheap and easy, but take a good look at the links before getting new ones. The rubber can wear, and the links can break, but you can tell at a glance if they're all that bad. The rubber rings will work just fine if they're a little cracked and squished looking, but don't accept looseness. Assume that new bushings are required, becasue they do wear out. As MJR says, you'll need new bushings whether or not you put in disconnects.

edit: oh yeah, forgot the output shaft seal. Relatively easy replacement. If the bushing is also bad, you will have to press it out and press a new one in. This can be done creatively with threaded rod and wrench sockets. Try the seal alone first unless the shaft is really loose. There's a little play even in a brand-new bushing.

No hard feelings man but I've dealt with a bunch of different Chrysler Dealerships and it's usually not a pretty sight, for instance I had a dealer change out the trans fluid on my YJ and a week later the trans locked up on the highway, rolled a few times and was in a wheelchair for 4 months.

I just had new long-life pads put on a little over 1k ago so I guess I could use them on the new rotors, right? How exactly do you change out the out-put shaft on the t-case, how can I top off the fluid and what's the right type to use? How much should those tools be to change out the ball-joints? Anybody have a link to Mad XJ's article?
Thanks again for the help

I guessing that my brakes were working alright cause they stopped just fine, there were new pads all arround plus new e-break cable and brakes lines a little over 1k ago. The only thing I did notice about the brakes before hand was that no matter how far to the floor I pushed the pedal when I went to stop I could never get the tires to lock up unless on a slightly slick surface.

http://www.madxj.com/ Click on Technical and then scroll to ball joints. The output seal isn't hard pry the old out put the new in. After removing the yoke of course. As Matthew Currie said check the bearing and replace it as well if it seems loose.

Zoro said:

No hard feelings man but I've dealt with a bunch of different Chrysler Dealerships and it's usually not a pretty sight, for instance I had a dealer change out the trans fluid on my YJ and a week later the trans locked up on the highway, rolled a few times and was in a wheelchair for 4 months.

I just had new long-life pads put on a little over 1k ago so I guess I could use them on the new rotors, right? How exactly do you change out the out-put shaft on the t-case, how can I top off the fluid and what's the right type to use? How much should those tools be to change out the ball-joints? Anybody have a link to Mad XJ's article?
Thanks again for the help

Click to expand...

Many tool rental places have the ball joint press. You can also check auto parts stores that carry tools. The basic press is a little pricey, and you'll also need either a set of bushings and spacers, or lots of good pieces of pipe and bearings and stuff and old sockets hanging around your garage. I think Harbor Freight also sells a less expensive ball joint press, and as I recall, Eagle has one and has found it serviceable.

Take a good look at your rotors. If they're reasonably smooth and shiny, and if the brakes don't pulsate or throb, I doubt new rotors will solve your problem. It's more likely stiff calipers or rear brake aduster failure, and perhaps a bit of both plus the choice of pads. Long life pads get their long life by being very hard.

On the rear driveshaft, you just undo the u-joint at the differential end, and pull the shaft out of the yoke on the transfer case. The end casting of the transfer case is easily removeable. I think you might even be able to do the seal without removing it, but you must remove it to do the bushing.

I think you'd do well to find another reliable mechanic to look over your rig and give a second opinion. Then decide on the basis of your experience (or your desire to gain more of same) which jobs to tackle first. Rotors are easy, and so is the front sway bar. The driveshaft bushing is easy. Front axle u-joints are more difficult, and you can expect to take a long time, especially with the first one, but it's something you can do with patience and minimal new equipment. The time factor will depend a little on whether your vehicle is rusty or not, and how hard it is to get the front hubs off the knuckles. You will also need a very big 36 mm. wrench to get the nuts off the axle shafts. Ball joints are the hardest, and the most likely to leave you stuck with your axle in pieces, so if your time is limited, you might consider farming that out, despite the cost.