New member-cruise and other questions

Hi-been reading here and searching, have a couple of questions maybe someone can help with..

I've got a 90 Larado, 4.0, 242 auto. It had the 'death ABS' on it that gave out, and instead of trying to get the recall honored, I decided to go to a junkyard and swap it out for a non-abs system. Problem I'm having is that now my cruise control doesn't work. It had worked fine before the swap.

I made sure to reconnect the brake switch when I swapped things out, and have verified there are no vaccuum leaks. The ABS computer under the rear seat is still hooked up, I even get the red brake warning light to come on if I pull up the parking brake. Only electrical connections that have been removed are the big connector that went to the ABS computer (?) next to the master cylinder, and I removed the relay next to the ABS pump, which has been removed from the jeep.

Steering question: I've read about a 'death wobble', but my jeep is fine going straight. However, in a corner, it seems like I have to keep adjusting the wheel in a corner as the jeep starts 'hunting' in a turn. Any suggestions for a fix?

Oil pressure: Replaced the sending unit. I get about 50 PSI cold. Once the temp gauge gets up to 180 or so, it'll drop to around 40, and stay there as I'm driving down the road holding a steady throttle. After 20 minutes or more at highway speeds, it'll stay at 40 untill I back off the throttle. Then it drops to around 20-25, and stays there. Drops to about 10-15 at idle. Motor does have 196K on it, so I figure it's just normal wear. Should I be concerned or just keep changing the oil at regular intervals? Planning on running the 15w-50.

Thanks for the help/comments folks, nice site here!

n3jhv said:

Oil pressure: Replaced the sending unit. I get about 50 PSI cold. Once the temp gauge gets up to 180 or so, it'll drop to around 40, and stay there as I'm driving down the road holding a steady throttle. After 20 minutes or more at highway speeds, it'll stay at 40 untill I back off the throttle. Then it drops to around 20-25, and stays there. Drops to about 10-15 at idle. Motor does have 196K on it, so I figure it's just normal wear. Should I be concerned or just keep changing the oil at regular intervals? Planning on running the 15w-50.

Thanks for the help/comments folks, nice site here!

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oil pressure sounds normal to me... definately within acceptable limits.. why the 15W-50? i just run 10W-40 and occasionally 10W30.. a GOOD filter is more important than heavier oil.. Fram = bad JU JU....

n3jhv said:

Steering question: I've read about a 'death wobble', but my jeep is fine going straight. However, in a corner, it seems like I have to keep adjusting the wheel in a corner as the jeep starts 'hunting' in a turn. Any suggestions for a fix?

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I will say that when in a tight turn and delivering power to the front axle, you'll get the wheels to shake around - like there are discrete positions the wheels go to. Happens when in 4wd. I think it's pretty normal. But if this isn't the case, well.... just be specific to say "when in 2wd, coasting, on asphalt, etc"

Since you swapped in a master/brake booster I'd say the problem is at the brake switch. There are two different connectors that plug in there. One is for the brake lights and the other for the cruise control. Sometimes one of the wires breaks inside the insulation. Feel for a soft spot. There is also a vacuum servo dump switch above the brake switch. Let me know what you find.

Sorry for not elaborating: turning is running at highway speeds on asphalt, either maintaining speed or slightly accelerating in 2wd. Kinda like I'm trying to tighten the turn then backing out, then steering back in, starts a wobbling motion in the curve. I've learned that if I don't try to correct for it and just hold constant pressure on the wheel it seems to smooth out (usually).

Couldn't feel any breaks in the wire. Is the CC 'brake' switch a normally closed or normally open: Hitting the brakes closes or opens the circuit? Would like to test the switch with an ohmmeter.

Thanks all!

n3jhv said:

Couldn't feel any breaks in the wire. Is the CC 'brake' switch a normally closed or normally open: Hitting the brakes closes or opens the circuit? Would like to test the switch with an ohmmeter.

Thanks all!

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The switch is normally open (brake pedal not pressed). With the pedal not pressed power goes to the cruise control box (second connector).