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A different front end question...

xj8_8

NAXJA Member #1317
Location
Bedford Ind
I was wondering if it would be feasible to use the stock lca brackets & spring perchs off my d30 and fab uca mounts to install my d44? Im trying to save time & money. Would I have two run 2 uca's, or could I only run the right side. And would it be better to fab up mid length lowers, I dont want to go long arm. Would the uca mounted in stock location work with mid length lowers. I'm running 5" lift with 36 irocs and I've wasted 4 d30s in 2 months..
 
xj8_8 said:
I was wondering if it would be feasible to use the stock lca brackets & spring perchs off my d30 and fab uca mounts to install my d44? Im trying to save time & money. Would I have two run 2 uca's, or could I only run the right side. And would it be better to fab up mid length lowers, I dont want to go long arm. Would the uca mounted in stock location work with mid length lowers. I'm running 5" lift with 36 irocs and I've wasted 4 d30s in 2 months..

i see no reason you couldnt re-use the brackets from the D30... and if you intend to run a "stock type" design you need all 4 control arms.. theres alot more to a 3 link than just removing one UCA....
explain what "wasted" means... shafts? u-joints? housings?
 
sidriptide said:
i see no reason you couldnt re-use the brackets from the D30... and if you intend to run a "stock type" design you need all 4 control arms.. theres alot more to a 3 link than just removing one UCA....
explain what "wasted" means... shafts? u-joints? housings?
I've busted a lot of axle joints 6 I think, a couple of axles, shattered 1 pinion bearing. I didn't know if the 3 link would work just, thought it would make it easier to not have to try to put uca on cast housing. Would mid length lowers be any advantage?
 
xj8_8 said:
I've busted a lot of axle joints 6 I think, a couple of axles, shattered 1 pinion bearing. I didn't know if the 3 link would work just, thought it would make it easier to not have to try to put uca on cast housing. Would mid length lowers be any advantage?

You can use the stock LCA mounts, and the stock UCA passenger side mount and do a 3 link if you want to. I wouldn't do the 3 link using the stock rubber UCA bushing though, it could be too much for the one bushing. Currie makes a JJ that will replace that UCA bushing, which would work very well. Be sure to add some extra strength to the stock UCA mount to handle the extra stress of the single arm, and also add some reinforcement to the UCA frame mount, they have been known to come off even with 2 arms.

If you can weld, and are going to change the mounts anyway, it's just as easy (or easier) to just fab up new mounts using 3"x3" boxed tubing, 3/16" wall. That tubing is 2 5/8" ID which is the width of all the factory and aftermarket control arm bushings and joints. It would be easy to make an UCA using a regular JJ and then use the 3x3 boxed tubing to fab a mount for the axle, making it a few inches higher than stock to help control the axle torque and to level out the arm more.

I would definitely do mid arms for the LCA's, it's not that hard. You can cut the back out of the stock LCA frame mounts, then use the 3x3 tubing to extend the mounts back a few inches.......a simple way to make mounts that are lined up perfectly. You can trim a little off the front of the stock mounts if you need to, but it probably won't be necessary. If you already have aftermarket control arms, it's simple to lengthen them by cutting them and sleeving them with a larger section of tubing, also making them very strong.

As long as the mounts are strong enough, 3 links are great since they won't bind, and it's easier to fab up UCA mounts for only one side. Anything that improves your control arm angles is a good thing, and mid arms can provide better ground clearance than long arms. It's very difficult to have an argument against using mid arms. If you're interested in a few ideas, here's some pics of the three link and mid arms I did when I installed my D44.

Good luck with your project,
 
I would think that if you are going to use just one upper, then it would make sense to put it on the drivers side above the pumpkin. I would think that you'd get better wrap control being directly over the driveshaft with your control arm. It is extra work to put it there but will it make a difference? I don't know, I'm trying mine out this weekend.
 
Goatman, Thanks for the pics. How long is your lower arms? I built my own uca's & lca's about four months ago using swedge tubes & heim ends off my racecar. They look like the ones that Nth Degree Mobility now sells, except I used heims. I'm going to sleeve the tubes for strength, although I didnt bend one all summer. If I go longer arms I will probably use 1/4 wall tubing.
 
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