Quick Disconnects

Is it pointless to disconnect the front swaybar in a stock rideheight XJ with 235/75/15 tires? I was looking at some quick disconnects but don't really know if I need them.

No it isn't pointless. You'll need all the suspension travel you can get. Not to mention wheeling with the swaybar intact puts a lot of stress on the swaybar mounts.

EDIT: If you can afford the JKS Quicker Disconects, it will make life easier for you. Otherwise, there are some VERY cheap DIY ways to do it. Do a search or maybe someone who has done it can explain it for you...

i second the jks!

what he said!!:thumbup:

rangerjoe2001 said:

i second the jks!

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I went to the JKS website and they look great and easy to install..... well sorta... how do I tell if I have to deal with this:

"On some rigs, the factory mounting pin is splined and pressed into the tab. If this is the case, you'll probably have to cut the pin off and press the remainder out with a gear puller or drill it out. Some people have been able to heat the tab with a torch and just pound the pin out though."

I looked but couldn't tell. Is there something particular to look for?

i think the newer XJ's (97+) are this way. Mine on my 92 wasnt pressed in.


even if it is, you can press it out with a big socket and a large C-clamp...

I've never bought a set of quick disconnects.....I never liked any of them, and I've seen so many people struggle at the end of a trail to get the pins back in. Go to the hardware store and get a couple of 10mm wing nuts, remove the nut on the top of your stock links and replace them with the wing nuts. To disconnect just remove the wing nuts and use a bungee cord to tie the sway bar up out of the way. It's best to eventually knock the bolt out of the bottom of the links and replace it with a 1/2" pin so the links can be removed, but I ran mine a good while before I did that.

When you finish the trail, just put the wing nuts back on. Since you just need to be able to get the threads started on the wing nuts, you don't have to be completely level like you do to put in the pins on other types of disconnects.

If you lift your rig, just cut the stock links and weld in a piece to make them longer. I ran lengthened stock links with a 1/2" pin on bottom and a wing nut on top for many, many years. When I eventually made new links for a new front housing, I still used the pin on the bottom and wing nut on top.......in my mind, there's no better way to do it.

XJ_ranger said:

i think the newer XJ's (97+) are this way. Mine on my 92 wasnt pressed in.


even if it is, you can press it out with a big socket and a large C-clamp...

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I just ran into this problem this weekend. It took me 3 days to get the front suspension installed and I never could get the lower bolt out to install the JKS quicker disonnects. the bolt has a T-55 Torx head but wont budge. I blasted it with PB blaster and nothing. I have come to the conclusion it is pressed in. Could you go into more detail about pressing it out with the C-clamp and socket? It's a 99 sport.

That bolt is splined and pressed in. On the drivers side I used a pittman arm puller and an air rachet to press it out. On the passengers side, as there was little room to work, I ground the head off, drilled out the center of the bolt, and drove it out (from outside to inside) using a 2 pound sledge and a big punch. They're a pain, but I think that once you get them out, the Quicker disconnects are worth it. Mine is a '95 with just a bit of rust - those suckers had just seated themselves very nicely...

My 96 had the pressed/splined bolts as well and it wasn't that bad to get them out. I did a similar retouine. I cut some of the bolt of from the inside just to get a good flat surface. Then I heated that sucker until it was glowing. On the drivers side I was able to use a tie rod puller and it came out easy. The passenger side was a little harder b/c of the steering stabilizer. It took me longer b/c the puller kept slipping off but it finally came out. I DIY'ed my stock links like exactly like Goatman described. Have since lifted and now the passenger side link hits the coil just a bit so I will need to cut them and weld in a section of bolt.

Goatman said:

Go to the hardware store and get a couple of 10mm wing nuts, remove the nut on the top of your stock links and replace them with the wing nuts. To disconnect just remove the wing nuts and use a bungee cord to tie the sway bar up out of the way. It's best to eventually knock the bolt out of the bottom of the links and replace it with a 1/2" pin so the links can be removed, but I ran mine a good while before I did that.

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GENIUS~!

That's my favorite Idea yet!

I think I'll just go get a set of wing nuts and save myself 100+$

Make 'em, or just unscrew the nuts on top and let the links hang down. I did replace the tine pins at the axle end of the links with grade 8 bolts--the pins allow too much slop.
This is with 235s.

GottaBeJeep said:

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/swaybar_endlinks.htm

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Yup. This is the writeup I used to get the tapered bolts out of the axle brackets. Best method I could find.