Speed bleeders

[RichP]

Just noticed tonight while I was getting winter wipers for the TJ's that "HELP", those people who package the little things for vehicle repairs, now boxes pairs of speed bleeders in their 'help' line...

[5-90]

Really? I've use the ones that Russell Performance made with good results- how much does MotorMite want for theirs? I'll bee looking into a few, since I'm gearing up to replace pretty much all the hydraulics in the 89...

You'd not have noted any part numbers we could use offhand, would you? I can ask at the local - just don't see any need to reinvent the wheel...

5-90

[RichP]

They were like $3.99 a set...they show both front and rear on the 98XJ as being the same part number but when I look on the speedbleeder site they are different part numbers [but they also list front and rear DISC brakes as well as rear drums] so I'm somewhat stumped. I hate it when theres too many part number choices, I just want ONE or TWO, NOT FOUR.....

[5-90]

I'll check it out later - maybe I'll even figure out which size will work for a clutch bleed as well - just to simplify things. Now, I've just got to finish building that vacuum bleed cannister I'm doing - I got my hands on a couple of those "Party" helium cannisters that I'm making vacuum bleeders out of... I don't have a problem with the hand pump, but those little jars are just too damn small...

5-90

[Fred]

I have some part numbers for those who are interested. Dana 30 and Dana 44 of the 87-89 era take Russell part number 639590 front and rear. The Help! part number is 12701 for what looks to be the same unit. The bleeder screw is a little short in the D-44, it is hard to get a wrench on it when closed. A 3/8" 1/4" drive socket works well. It's a 3/8"-24 thread unit. The Russell catalog is wrong for my year rear axle.

Now if someone can tell me why I don't have enough pedal after bleeding two quarts of fluid through, I'd appreciate it. It's better, but not right. Started with a system that worked, replaced both axles. The 44 had two empty cylinders, and I replaced a front caliper along the line since the brake valve stem was sheared off. The 44 has all new stuff, and the 30 is using the same stuff that had worked before. The e-brake works after adding YJ cables and doing some adaptation of the e-brake rod.

If the stupid brakes worked, I'd be hooking up the air system so my rear locker worked, and I'd be wheeling tomorrow.

Fred

[Eagle]

Now if someone can tell me why I don't have enough pedal after bleeding two quarts of fluid through, I'd appreciate it. It's better, but not right. Started with a system that worked, replaced both axles. The 44 had two empty cylinders, and I replaced a front caliper along the line since the brake valve stem was sheared off. The 44 has all new stuff, and the 30 is using the same stuff that had worked before.
Are you by any chance still using the original combination valve? As a test of the remainder of the system, try removing the plug in the front of the valve. Don't bother to remove the O-ring from the piston, just remove the coil spring, slide the piston rod fully into the gasket in the cap/plug, then replace the cap/plug. Bleed the system again (the piston is in the rear circuit) and see how it feels.

This mod disables proportioning to the rear circuit. If you still don't have pressure to the rear, look at the master cylinder.

[outlander]

I remember reading something about a bench bleeding procedure for master cylinders.....you might want to check into that.....or maybe I'm just tired.

[Timber]

I just got the Help ones at AutoZone. Here they're 8.99/set. Don't worry about the part numbers so much as size/threads. Front is 3/8-24x1 and the rear is 5/16-24/1. DON'T have the counter monkeys look anything up--at least here in Toledo, just about every parts store but Napa has everything goofed up. You can't even trust them about which style light bulbs to get. The Help brand is a bit longer for each. IIRC, one set was 1.09" and the other was 1.19." I'm at work so I can't go to the garage for the packages, which I saved because I remembered this post and meant to post the info. I just wonder if the little extra length will hurt anything. They went in fine, and they seemed to work all right (although this was my first time ever doing any kind of brake work myself).

[Prepmech]

I've had them on mine for a little over two years now, I use the Help ones. After changing my rear brake line a few months ago, mine were siezed up and would not work. The springs were stuck, and it wouldn't even work as a conventional bleeder. I had to replace them. They work pretty good, but my pedal still feels a little soft. The best way to bleed the brakes by yourself is to vacuum bleed them. That is what I do now. The speed bleeders have too small of parts that are left exposed to corrosion and will stick. You might have some luck if you put caps on them, but I always loose them.

[Timber]

That's the kind of stuff I've been waiting to hear, Prepmech. Since you've had them on a while, can I assume that the tiny bit of extra length didn't hurt anything? My pedal is still pretty spongy, too, but I just thought that was due to this being my first time bleeding brakes and that I didn't do it right. What about gravity bleeding them first?
EDIT: Nevermind about the gravity bleeding. Duh, can't be done with speed bleeders. Sometimes I crack myself up.

[Gerr]

ive used speed bleeders on most of my cars and all of my toys as well as all of my customers cars and never had a problem bleeding them and getting a firm pedal. Might want to start at the pasenger rear and the do the driver rear and then repeat. Ive seen where the rear line split will hold a little air pocket and effect the pedal. As for long term effects ive never had a set of speed bleeders actually not need to be replaced after a couple years because of the gunk and corrosion the incure

[RichP]

I just got mine in the mail yesterday, guess I'll put them in this afternoon or tomorrow...they even have rubber caps for them.