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Another SYE question

dphillips

See,what had happened was
Location
Augusta GA
New to forum
Installed RE 3.5" super ride kit on my 2000xj. Getting the bad vibes starting at about 25mph. 4* Shims helped a little. 6* made it worse. It seems like (from what I've read) everyones answer to this problem is a SYE and a CV style shaft, but if I can eliminate the slip yoke on the output shaft of the transfer case and get my pinion angles right, can't I get by with a longer drive shaft that has the slip joint built in and normal universal joints?

I'm sure this subject has been beaten to death, but any help/advise would be apreciated.
 
i am FAR from being an expert on this particular subject....but if you have already experimented with shims in the rear....an easier and cheaper solution for you with only 3.5" of lift, might be to lower the transfer case 1" or so.

I realize this isnt always a desirable solution, but its ceratinly cheaper than an SYE and new driveshaft.

there are a bunch of different route you can take to lower the transfercase--do a search if this seems like something you may be interested in...

just my $.02

HTH
 
Yeah, I was hoping to avoid the T-case drop.

The lift was a RE 3.5" lift, (w/new leaf packs) but the actual lift height was closer to 4.5"-5" once installed. I was just thinking there wasn't any reason to get a CV shaft if I could get the pinion angle close to parallel with the output shaft and have my current shaft modified.

Thanks
 
Just out of curiosity, why not an sye and cv shaft? If you are going to modify the t case to use a longer d shaft and get a shaft lengthened, you might as well do it right and be done.
 
Maybe that is the question. Is there an advantage to having a CV shaft over a regular shaft if I can get the pinion angle right.
I do want to get rid of the slip yoke (on the transfer case) and get a drive shaft that provides a slip joint. I was just thinking it may be cheaper to have my existing drive shaft modified (if possible) than to purchase a CV shaft.
 
The problem with newer xj's isn't just keeping the u-joint angles equal, it's keeping them under 7 deg or so. My 99 is at 4", and with a t-case drop I'm at 6 1/2 deg. If you had an old style output on your t-case and the correct shaft you might be ok. Most owners find it's about the same expense and work to do an sye and have a donor shaft reworked, or run a front shaft in the rear.

If you do a search, there is a lot of info on this subject here and on P 4X4.
 
You spent good bucks for that lift, don't cheap out now. You bought that lift so it would be lifted correctly with parts you have heard to be some of the best.......right???? So why try to cheap out and risk your TC and diff???
Anything besides a SYE is just a bandaid. Especially since its a 2000 model.
The double cardan setup on a SYE shaft has a very high tolerance for angle.
That is why the pinion points right at the TC. All the angle in the driveline joints are taken care of by the double cardan set.
Depending on your angles, it might not be possible to get it totally correct with the ideas you have.
Believe me if there was a cheap way to do it........you'd find it here.
So belly up and do the SYE and then you won't have anything to worry about.
You can play with every band aid fix there is and probably will never get it to be 100%, and its very possible you could wind up spending more in the long run than the price of the SYE.
Just my .02
Timbo
 
I used a standard 2-joint slip shaft with a fixed output yoke on my '97 through 5.5" lift with great results. I didn't want a CV shaft because I wanted to keep the pinion horizontal for lubrication purposes and correct shock mount locations.
 
on my 91 at around 5" of lift i had no vibrations even without shims. what i did find out was that when i drooped the axel completely down (as when the axel is down and the body rests on jack stands) my u-joints would bind and the driveshaft wouldn't spin. i don't think i ever noticed it when crawling because usualy only one side dropped and the shaft never came down far enough. good thing i never came off a whoop-dee-do at speed or i woulda dropped the shaft for sure. just something to keep in mind when thinking about cv shafts and sye's.
 
I just replaced a single cardan at each end shaft for one with a double at the transfercase end yesterday for a customer. The old shaft was only 12 months old and already needed to be replaced due to running at too steep an angle. Maximum lift with any long term reliablilty is 3.5" with single cardans at each end. I used a front shaft that was legthen with bigger tube as well as worked out far cheaper. This was on a 95 with a 242 and Dana 35 which needs a longer front shaft. If you have a 231 and a 8.25, D44 or 8.8 you can bolt the front shaft straight in with a flange yoke #211229X. I have been told. I used this flange with the front shaft lengthened as mentioned.
 
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