Starters.rebuild and model questions

I need to rebuilt my starter in my XJ. Has anyone done these before? How difficult is it and what do I need other then the kit? Also does anyone know what model I have. I've done some searching but can't find eactly which came in mine(89 4.0). It's the stock one as far as I know and lasted 175k, so I figure a rebuilt kit should be fine as I can't see spending 300+ on a PM or MG unit. Problems I've been having is no crank, and after a few wacks with a hammer it's fine. Colder weather seems to cause it to not work more often. TIA

Weasel said:

I need to rebuilt my starter in my XJ. Has anyone done these before? How difficult is it and what do I need other then the kit? Also does anyone know what model I have. I've done some searching but can't find eactly which came in mine(89 4.0). It's the stock one as far as I know and lasted 175k, so I figure a rebuilt kit should be fine as I can't see spending 300+ on a PM or MG unit. Problems I've been having is no crank, and after a few wacks with a hammer it's fine. Colder weather seems to cause it to not work more often. TIA

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My Dad just rebuild his and while he was doing that we rebuild an older one that I had go bad a couple of years. From what we found on those two, the thing that seems to go bad is the brush pack...This is a cool deal because unlike most brushes in electric moters these ones are in a pack that just slides in....These starters are VERY high quality...They have ball bearings all through them and the planetary gear sets are top notch....Pull the brushes out and check them...Prolly the only thing you need to replace.
10 bucks good guy price at the dealer isn't bad either.

Does it matter the model for the brush packs? I'm assuming thats all thats wrong with mine as well. Whats the "good guy price"? Should I clean the bearings? I had some oil lekaing that has coated the outside so I would like to get it cleaned up.

I´ve been through my starters a bunch of times, from mud baths. Found the brush pack at a Mitsubishi dealer, brushes and mounting plate in a unit. Just the brushes would probably be cheaper.
All I´ve ever really done is clean and lub the planetary gears and the bendix, used a light synthetic grease, I had on the shelf for washing machine motors. Planetary gears can be greased up well. the bendix just needs a very lite coat or it will collect sand. When you pull the ends off, be carefull not to loose the thrust washer on the end of the shaft (both ends).
I opened the solenoid (once) and lubed it with vasaline, looks like new after like 10 years of use.
Make sure and mark the case, when seperating, it can be assembled wrong and still work (ask me how I know this).
I´ve only had one starter go bad (mud and sand), something with the bendix, even after cleaning and lubrication it would sometimes engauge and sometimes not. Looked good no burrs or wear, just refused to work reliably. It would spin, but wouldn´t go all the way forward into the flex plate teeth, never did figure out why.
Make sure the starter housing, the bolts and the threads are clean for a good ground. Had one I pulled and reinstalled covered in oil, that had an iffy ground.
Don´t over tighten the cable nut, the insulator can be broken.
Brushes are kind of a pain to compress and get the back plate on, usually takes two people and a couple of thin screwdrivers.

Well, I finsihed it up just a bit ago. Figured might as well run throught it so anyone esle that searchs may find something useful. I got all my parts from a local rebuilder shop. I ended up replacing the only replacing the gear drive and the brushes. With the brushes make sure you get the brush holder plus the one main brush. Two of the brushes need are soldered on and can cause problems if your not expecting to solder anything. The holder comes with those two already solder on and ready to go. The case then splits in half and you can see the planteries. To get the gear drive off you pop off the little retainer/circle clip on the gear end of the shaft and then remove the gear drive assembly. This took me a bit to figure out as well. Everything else is pretty easy to figure out. The entier inside was coated with an oil/metal particles/dirt mix so I cleaned the entire thing out with carb/brake cleaner. I added Redline assembly grease to the planteries, the gear drive, starting gear, and used Redline CV-2 (super sticky) grease to the holes, grommets, and where the three halves mate up to try and help keep the water and grime out. On other things to be careful of is watch to make sure you install the plastic arm in the right way. I didn't and had to dissasembly it. Also the brushes are a pain to compress and install and two people is pretty much a must. All in all it was a pretty straight forward project. Took me around 4-5 hours to finish it but could have been done quicker with help and all the aprts the first time(had to make a parts run for the brush holder). Total cost was $27.00.

There is a warning in an FSM or Chiltons someplace, about not using solvent to clean the starter windings. I always use dishwashing soap and very hot water. I have a compressor type solvent sprayer, that when filled with near boiling water works well, for cleaning the insides.
Carb. cleaner may strip the varnish/insulation right off of the windings. Brake cleaner is often pretty safe, but a test patch could save possible problems.
Don´t forget the thrust washers on the ends of the shafts, sometimes they come out with the shaft, sometimes stick in the bearing caps, often end up on the floor.