nhrocker
November 30th, 2004, 11:35
As usual, I got one problem taken care of and another one popped up.
This problem has been talked about before, but trying to search through the results I haven't found any that were quite the same yet. If you know of a thread, please point me in the right direction!
Ok, this is where I'm at. I've got a 95 auto with 183,000 miles and I'm pretty sure the original starter and solenoid. I had problems with it starting for a while now, so 3 days ago my dad bought me a new battery as a gift. He got a Duralast Gold Top I think its called? I had the alternator checked at the same time and its operating the best that a stock one can. I'm also running marine grade quick disconnect terminals.
Well I put the new battery in and it works fine. I drove all the way back to my college, no problem. Yesterday I drove to town and it worked fine. Then last night I went to leave, but when I went to sit in the drivers seat I lost power to everything. I figured it was a bad connection to the batt. Checked and they were fine. Got back in and power came back on and it started up great. I turn it off to put my tools away, come back a minute later and it won't start. It still has power to everything else. The battery is pushing 12.76 volts directly off the terminals. I tried tapping on the starter assembly, nothing. All I get is a loud click from it and a humming or buzzing coming from my relay box. I had the CPS replaced like 2 years ago, so I don't think its that either. I think its either the starter or the relay. I also tried running the shifter through the gears and that didn't make a difference. I'm pretty sure I'm getting power to the solenoid since my friend shocked himself on it earlier trying to disconnect the terminals on it to check them.
I'm posting this in here rather than OEM Tech since I have the custom wiring to the quick disco. and I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but I've got Banks headers that I've been running for a few months and a cat back kit for about a year. It was suggested by a friend that it might mess with the computer? I didn't think that sounded right. I also had my back up lights wired to a toggle switch in the dash about 2 years ago when the switch for them went.
Any ideas or help would be great. And I can get more info if I lert anything out! Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post!
This problem has been talked about before, but trying to search through the results I haven't found any that were quite the same yet. If you know of a thread, please point me in the right direction!
Ok, this is where I'm at. I've got a 95 auto with 183,000 miles and I'm pretty sure the original starter and solenoid. I had problems with it starting for a while now, so 3 days ago my dad bought me a new battery as a gift. He got a Duralast Gold Top I think its called? I had the alternator checked at the same time and its operating the best that a stock one can. I'm also running marine grade quick disconnect terminals.
Well I put the new battery in and it works fine. I drove all the way back to my college, no problem. Yesterday I drove to town and it worked fine. Then last night I went to leave, but when I went to sit in the drivers seat I lost power to everything. I figured it was a bad connection to the batt. Checked and they were fine. Got back in and power came back on and it started up great. I turn it off to put my tools away, come back a minute later and it won't start. It still has power to everything else. The battery is pushing 12.76 volts directly off the terminals. I tried tapping on the starter assembly, nothing. All I get is a loud click from it and a humming or buzzing coming from my relay box. I had the CPS replaced like 2 years ago, so I don't think its that either. I think its either the starter or the relay. I also tried running the shifter through the gears and that didn't make a difference. I'm pretty sure I'm getting power to the solenoid since my friend shocked himself on it earlier trying to disconnect the terminals on it to check them.
I'm posting this in here rather than OEM Tech since I have the custom wiring to the quick disco. and I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but I've got Banks headers that I've been running for a few months and a cat back kit for about a year. It was suggested by a friend that it might mess with the computer? I didn't think that sounded right. I also had my back up lights wired to a toggle switch in the dash about 2 years ago when the switch for them went.
Any ideas or help would be great. And I can get more info if I lert anything out! Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post!