NP242 Slip Yoke Eliminator Install

OK...have an '89 Wagoneer LTD with the 4.0, NP242 and 3" of lift. Also extended brake lines and swaybar discos. Want to get rid of the transfer case drop I installed and need to do the SYE/driveshaft routine. Does anybody have good instructions (with photos) of a SYE install in a NP242?

As always...thanks in advance!

wow. nice simple write-up!

Thanks for the link...nice, clear, write-up. I was nervous about attempting it, but think I'll do it on my own now!

I'd remove the t-case drop and try it without the SYE first, you might not need it. On my 87 w/242 I'm at over 5" of lift with no vibes.
Seems that the older XJ's can get away with a bit more lift without needing a SYE.

When I did mine I used the Tom Woods kit for the 242. It's still a hack and tap, but they do the hacking and the taping. The big difference is that you have to open the case completely and replace the output shaft. It's not really that big a deal, just make sure you have a BIG snap ring plier. I didn't trust myself to cut and tap the output shaft, and the kit with a new shaft was reasonably priced.

What the posted write up doesn't mention, and what you will likely need is that you will have to shim your rear axle so that it points up toward the transfer case after you install the SYE. You'll have to check your driveline angles when complete to see what you need. I forgot that part and had worse vibes when I was done! I was not a happy camper. Once I measured the angles I needed to put in 5 degree shims and the vibes were gone.

Pirate 4x4 has a great write-up on drivelines here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html

I was working on one today ( not mine ) that had the 242 with the RE hack and tap. What worries me is that it was fitted less than a year ago and I can move the flange in and out and tilt it up to 1 mm. The bolt that holds the flange on is tight as and it and the washer behind it does not move the 1 mm that the flange it'self does. It is on a 95 so has the wet seal part as well which the flange is touching. Do you think that maybe the place that installed this one cut the shaft too short or that the spline inside the flange is worn or is this normal for these? I wonder even if they didn't drill the hole deep enough so the bolt bottoms out and why the flange has movement?

Thanks again. I did try without the t-case lowering kit at first. The minor vibes I got when I first lifted was the reason I went with the t-case kit. It helped, but did not eliminate the vibes.

I like the thought of the Tom Woods kit...will look into it.

Just pulled it off then and the bolts hole was 2" deep! So it was not that but did find they had not cut the end of the shaft square by any means and that there was a heap of Silastic under the washer that holds the flange to the shaft. What I cant work out, all that holds the flange on is a washer that is held in place by a circlip? This has some play so you can get the clip in to hold the washer in place but will also mean it will always have movement?
Anyway I had squared the shaft off nicely by running the engine in reverse while grinding and made sure no Silastic got under the washer but placing it and the circlip on after the flange was on the shaft. Only a little play now and nothing like what was before so hope it is alright now.