I was having some trouble with death wobble in my cherokee so I got a Rusty's trac bar and installed it after driving it I noticed I needed to readjust it. I got the axle bolt off easily enough but on the one on the frame side I unscrewed the bolt but it was stuck in place on the bolt over the ball joint and wouldn't budge. I tried prying it with a ball joint seperator, heating up the mount with a torch, and just beating the crap out of it with a hammer but nothing will move it. Anyone have any ideas?
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stuck trac bar
- Thread starter xjgreg
- Start date
nate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Anchorage, Alaska
You got the nut off, but it's stuck your saying? Use the pickle fork (BJ seperator) and a BFH and it will come off. You don't use the pickle fork to pry... stick in between the mount and the track bar and pound the end with the BFH.
- Location
- Terra Firma
If you got the axle end off, why do you need to take the other end off? It's a tie rod end -- loosen the locknut and turn the bar, then reattach to the axle.
bburge
Lost in Translation
- Location
- Santa Clarita, CA
You can, but with the bends in it; you need to pop the tie rod from the drag link. Then you can.
The tire rod end on the frame mount is such a PITA that I did it this way last time.
I had one time where I was trying to remove the TRE from the bracket (bad TRE, no choice) and I couldn't gfet it off with the fork and the BFH. THEN I removed the bracket and beat the hell out of it some more with the hammer and the fork. THEN I heated the bracket with a MAP gas torch and beat on it some more with the fork and hammer. Then it was late and the neighbors were starting to get ****y - so I drove it down to a parking lot in my GF's car and beat on it some more. No good.
So I resigned myself to not getting to work the next day. I took the bracket (and TRE) to my Jeep mechanic. He clamped it in a vise and hit it ONCE with a fork and hammer and it came right out. He says I loosened it up for him. :rattle: I'm gonna buy an impact hammer for my compressor AND a trackbar that doesn't use a TRE.
bburge
The tire rod end on the frame mount is such a PITA that I did it this way last time.
I had one time where I was trying to remove the TRE from the bracket (bad TRE, no choice) and I couldn't gfet it off with the fork and the BFH. THEN I removed the bracket and beat the hell out of it some more with the hammer and the fork. THEN I heated the bracket with a MAP gas torch and beat on it some more with the fork and hammer. Then it was late and the neighbors were starting to get ****y - so I drove it down to a parking lot in my GF's car and beat on it some more. No good.
So I resigned myself to not getting to work the next day. I took the bracket (and TRE) to my Jeep mechanic. He clamped it in a vise and hit it ONCE with a fork and hammer and it came right out. He says I loosened it up for him. :rattle: I'm gonna buy an impact hammer for my compressor AND a trackbar that doesn't use a TRE.
bburge
- Location
- Terra Firma
Forgot about the bend. My bad.
However, the goal here is to adjust, not to remove and replace. So I guess Plan B would be to simply remove the bracket from the frame, adjust and reinstall. No need to pop the tie rod end with the bracket off the chassis.
However, I've not had one yet that didn't respond to a pickle fork and 2-1/2 pound sledge hammer.
However, the goal here is to adjust, not to remove and replace. So I guess Plan B would be to simply remove the bracket from the frame, adjust and reinstall. No need to pop the tie rod end with the bracket off the chassis.
However, I've not had one yet that didn't respond to a pickle fork and 2-1/2 pound sledge hammer.
bburge
Lost in Translation
- Location
- Santa Clarita, CA
Actually removing the frame bracket is harder than popping the tie rod from the draglink.
Unless you have the front skid, the TRE in the middle of the draglink is staring you right in the face. Remove the cotter pin, put an old nut on the end (non-castlated) and hit it with the hammer. The bracket had hard to reach nuts with some pretty high torque requirements.
Go for the tie rod/draglink junction; I just did this last weekend.
bburge
Unless you have the front skid, the TRE in the middle of the draglink is staring you right in the face. Remove the cotter pin, put an old nut on the end (non-castlated) and hit it with the hammer. The bracket had hard to reach nuts with some pretty high torque requirements.
Go for the tie rod/draglink junction; I just did this last weekend.
bburge
