Trans. Cooling Line replacement

The transmission cooling line on my son's '98 is leaking - on the side that goes by the steering box where the rubber meets the long metal tube.

So - can you cut off the metal crimp and get new rubber lines and double hose - clamp each end? Or do you need to spend the $$ to get an entire replacement with the metal lines and all?

Or - any other ideas?

yes you can do that. I did that same thing when my harmonic balancer wore my hose through. Shouldn't be a problem, I haven't had one yet and only costs a couple of bucks.

I asked the mechanic at my transmission shop that question - is it safe to cut the line and slide on rubber tube then hoseclamp it - he said that over time the pressure would push the rubber section off the metal tube. Result would be pumping all the ATF out of the transmission. Now some on this board have done it with no problems yet. If you want a bullet-proof hookup, then use a connector that is compression fitting to hose barb. The compression fitting (little ring for the metal tube and a tube nut that sqashes it all together) has a barbed extension on the other end, so that it gets a good grip on the rubber tube under the hose clamp. They have them in Home Depot. I will go this route when I add a tranny cooler to the new XJ (a 2001), my 1990 already has a cooler.

you know I'm just thinking, if that plastic barb holds it on without leaking then I'm guessing there's not THAT much pressure there. Still say it shouldn't be a problem.

I carefully cut through the metal "shell" that currently holds the rubber hose onto the metal tubing. I was surprised how loose the old hose was. No wonder they leak.

I got some 5/16" transmission cooling hose - even though it fit more tightly to the tubing, I could see how it could slip off under pressure.

The metal tubing has a lip on it that the old metal shell clamped over to prevent the hose from slipping off. I crammed the new hose past this lip and put a hose clamp on each side of the lip. I think this will prevent it from pulling off.

While we were at it, I changed the trans. fluid and filter. If your XJ has a pre-cat, I can tell you it is a real pain trying to drop the transmission pan. The pre-cat is right in the way. Had to undo the exhaust from the manifold and really pull on it to drop the pan. Filled it back up, flushed about 6 more quarts through and it's good to go (I hope).

WobblesXJ said:

you know I'm just thinking, if that plastic barb holds it on without leaking then I'm guessing there's not THAT much pressure there. Still say it shouldn't be a problem.

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There are also o-rings and flares invovled to hold back the pressure. Be careful working around the lines, as it's easy to crack the flare on the rearmost section of the tranny line. I found this out the hard way a few months ago when I ended up replacing the tranny-side fitting on both lines within a few weeks of each other. Fortunately I learned how to replace them pretty quickly so I wasn't stranded on the side of the highway too long.

That's what I had to deal with...use a can of WD-40 with the red tube to spray down the inside of the QD fitting and spray all that crud out. Only when it's clean inside can you squeeze the QD ears and pull the line out.

The fittings I referred to above are made of brass - I don't think I would trust the plastic barb either!

4xBob said:

If you want a bullet-proof hookup, then use a connector that is compression fitting to hose barb. The compression fitting (little ring for the metal tube and a tube nut that sqashes it all together) has a barbed extension on the other end, so that it gets a good grip on the rubber tube under the hose clamp. They have them in Home Depot.

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If you use the compression fitting, are you cutting off the stock nipple on the lower line that the little plastic fitting snaps around? What size compression fitting?

Thanks,
Jay

anyone know what size the metal trans cooler line is on a 98XJ?
is it 5/16 or 3/8"
where mine leaks

The flow of the transmission fluid is from the trans to the top fitting on the radiator cooler, then out the bottom fitting and then back to the transmisson. If you have the factory Aux cooler then it is placed between the bottom fitting of the radiator and the return line.

I had a weeping "hot" line in 2000 when I was getting ready to move and planned to pull a trailer. I went to my dealer and they told me they sell only the complete line. I also noticed the special coupling used at the radiator hoses. I decided the transmission it TOO valuable to go cheap on this repair. I purchased the complete lines and installed them. I do recommend you replace both lines at once, it no more effort since they are clipped together along the run. Back in 2000 I paid around $65 for both lines.

You will need a set of AC line tools to remove the stock lines. They run around $10 a set at Sears. Without the line tool set you will have a major pain removing the couplings.


LOUISIANAZJ - looks like you have a leaking power steering hose, not the transmsision line. Looks like that 4 clamp mess is the source of your leak. I'd go and buy a new "pressure" line at the parts store and replace it. You might as well replace the return like also. I spend about $20 for both lines and hte hose clamps for the return. I then flushed the power steering system with the front end off the ground. I filled the system and slowly turned the wheel lock to lock and the old fluid came out the return hose and into a 2 liter bottle i had on it instead of connecting it to the reservoir. I got rid of all the colored fluid, took 3 qts to go from coffee to clear.

naw, the ps lines are good. those go out to the PS cooler (return line). they are all leaky looking beacuse i took the pics when i was working on installing the PS cooler. and Ps fluis was dripping all over.

the trans line is leaking, but i wiped it clean before the pic was taken

LouisianaZJ - that's exactly where my son's '98 was leaking. 5/16" hose fit just right on it, so that's what size I would say it is.

Hey jkmhb i have a leak in the same exact hose and was wondering how exactly you got that metal type thing off the stock hose ? When you say you cut it ow exactly did you do that ?

pete

Pete - I very carefully used a cut off wheel to make 2 cuts along the length of the metal clamps (I guess lengthwise along the hose would be the best way to describe it). The I pried it back and forth several times with a screwdriver and it broke in half and came off.

Obviously you want to be careful not to cut into the metal tubing underneath.

I have a 5/16 hose labeled fuel line/ emissions...will this be ok for the tranny line replacement.

pete

It might be OK, but the right stuff was probably only $3 or $4 at Autozone - so I would suggest that.

the regular vac line can get eaten away by the hi temp atf

I used a nylon braided hydraulic line for mine. It is pretty stiff hose, and hard to get past the flange, but it has been on for 40,000 miles with no problems. I also double clamped on each side of the line. Don't buy the cheap hose clamps, they are too flimsy.

Help please...I am curently trying to get the hose over the two flanges that belonged to the original metal clamp but its not going over ? I have tried 3/8 and 5/16 inch tranny hose but neither will make it past the flanges ? I tried clamping it before them but it sprayed tranny fluid everywhere ???

pete

jeepsrock said:

Help please...I am curently trying to get the hose over the two flanges that belonged to the original metal clamp but its not going over ? I have tried 3/8 and 5/16 inch tranny hose but neither will make it past the flanges ? I tried clamping it before them but it sprayed tranny fluid everywhere ???

pete

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did you put a little atf on the metal to help lube it.
when i was cutting out a section of fuel line and sliding the rubber line over it. a combination of pushing, twisting and lubricating the hose helped