RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

OK, I just finished installing an RE6160 kit in my '96 AW4 XJ. I decided to go with the full length add-a-leafs, and OME shocks.

Well the lift went on great! I don't have any driveline vibes. However there are a couple of problems.

First of all, I realized I installed the add-a-leaf incorrectly. We put it in the bottom of the leaf pack, rather than the second one down. I also didn't have any new (bigger) leaf spring clamps... didn't know I would need them.

The second thing is, sometimes when I let off the gas, more often at speed, there is sort of a rattling/grinding/rumbling sound that sounds like it's coming from the rear... or sort of out of the transfer case..but it's hard to pin point. Could this be the incorrectly installed add-a-leaf flexing, or rubbing against the bolt heads on the original leaf pack? The noise goes away as soon as I get back on the throttle. I will not be able to take a part the leaf springs, and put them together correctly, until Thanksgiving day. Will it be OK to drive and will there be any damage associated with this? This will require a 3 hour drive. Which I also must make a 3 hour drive, with the leaf installed as is, tomorrow.

And last but not least, I don't see how it is possible to install the bar-pin eliminators. There was nothing for the stud on them to mount to.. just holes for the shock bolts. I am under the impression many of you use bar-pin eliminators. What am I missing?

Oh yeah... and none of the shock bolts broke!! In fact they came out very easily.

All help is appreciated!

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

BPE- Remove the factory bar pin by pressing it out, and press in the new cross piece from the BPE. JKS correct?

Clamps- Find a local spring shop, and they will have what you need.

Noise- Check your exhasut hangers. As far as the driving with them installed correctly, that will have to be your call.

HTH

Fergie

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

I Did a budget boost on my 96 XJ with full length add a leafs also and experienced this same noise you descrbed, it turned out to be the slip joint on the front of the rear driveshaft. Try pulling the driveshaft out and cleaning and greasing this joint. Fixed mine. I'm sure that's what it is, you described it exactly.

About the BPE,I'm not sure what you mean by:"There was nothing for the stud on them to mount to". Thr BPE kit installs on the bottom of the front shocks and the top of the rear shocks. Just install as Fergie said.

The U-bolts should be replaced with the install, but as long as the u-bolt nuts are fully engaged you shouldn't have any imediate problems unless you go off-road

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

Add-a-leaf - correct that. The spring pack should proceed from smallest on the bottom to the largest on top. When you say leaf spring clamps, do you mean the u-bolts that hold the axle to the leaves, or the clamps in the leaves themselves? You should be able to use the AAL with the old springs, but if the clamps need to be opened up you can use a blue wrench to open them.

Noise - could be a dirty/ungreased slipjoint, or could be the u-joints making noise, especially if they've been in there a long time. Of course, you've got a 96 so you've got the slipyoke that's more prone to vibes...could be that, too.

BPE - like Sero said, the BPE goes on the bottom front or top rear shock

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

Thanks for the responses guys. The bar pin eliminators I have look different than the one pictured above, and they're made by warrior. The ones I have, have a stud on the top which would screw into a nut.

What all is involved with removing and greasing up the slip joint? I don't suppose there are any write-ups on this? Will the T case need to be drained? If I am correct there is not a zerk on the slip joint, is there? Should I just take it off, clean it, and slather it in grease? Will it require any special tools to do this?

And what size u bolts should I get? I will replace those as well. As is, there is about 1/4" of thread on each bolt end sticking up past the nut.


Will there be any negative effects to my new add a leaf with it on the bottom for now?

Thanks guys

BTW, I netted about 2.75" front, and 3.25" rear.

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

To grease the rear slip joint, you need to remove the rear driveshaft. Unbolt the rear u-joint straps from the rear axle flange, the bolts are 5/16 (or 8mm will work). Take note of the boot on the slip joint on the front of the shaft and make sure you put it back on the same way. Just clean and lube the splines with chassis grease. I have heard of people having better luck with other types of grease, but I can't recall what they used. When reassebling I would recommend blue loctite on the bolts (just as the factory does), they can come loose. No need to drain the transfer case. Ohh...and BTW, don't forget to block you wheels when removing your driveshaft, or at least have have the e-brake on, better yet...do both, can't be too safe.

If your rear axle is a D35, 2.75" U-bolts will work.

Also, I'm sure you will be netting more than 3.25" lift when you install the AAL correctly.

Good luck

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

Yucca-Man said:

Add-a-leaf - correct that.

Click to expand...

Yeash.....I didn't realize I was getting a spelling test while I was trying to help this guy out.......I think we all understood what I said.

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

He was referencing the fact that the original poster had the AAL installed in correctly. His statement of "correct that" was telling him to put the leaves in the correct order.

No harm done.

Fergie

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

Fergie said:

He was referencing the fact that the original poster had the AAL installed in correctly. His statement of "correct that" was telling him to put the leaves in the correct order.

No harm done.

Fergie

Click to expand...

Oops....me bad.......sorry. I read it all wrong.

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

Dang Sero, you made me scroll back up to see what I done. Like Fergie said, I was just trying to tell him to fix that arrangement of the leaves in the springpack.

90Pioneer - do you have these?

Warrior Products WAR160 Shock Conversion Mounts? those are intended for the front upper mount to convert it from a post-style mount to the eye bushing style, this allows more flexibility in shock choices. It's not a BPE in the same sense of the ones I am using from JKS (and included in that picture).

You've got a D35 rear axle? 2.75" u-bolts will work. The D35 typically uses a 2.62" axletube although there may be some variance. However, the 1/4" exposed is enough. You don't need to drain the t-case although this would be a good time to do that if you haven't in awhile. Pull the driveshaft, clean it up, regrease it and put 'er back.

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

I think 90Pioneer still has a slip-yoke/1 pc driveshaft and not a splined 2pc driveshaft with SYE.

Weren't the '96s and newer more sensitive to angles? The XJ slipyoke has less 'throat' clearance than a YJ type yoke, thus less operating angle-which 'could' lead to binding.

I'd do this in order:

1: check some angles: Assuming the Jeep is sitting on fairly level ground and doesn't move between readings, the engine crank/trans/t-case output is paralell with the top of the valve cover. Pull a measurement here, it should be sloping a few degrees down from level... WITH THE FACTORY T-CASE The rear axle pinion should point a corresponding degree upwards or approx one degree less (to allow the angles to better match as the axle gets rotated upwards while under power) WITH A SYE MODIFIED CASE the pinion should point right at the output -minus that degree.

2: I'd clean and service the driveshaft (replace the old UJs with new Spicer) and unless it's known to be fresh, I'd replace the fluid in the case -a few oz. will seep out when the rear shaft is removed. Be certain to note or mark which way the shaft and yoke were mated....make a 'witness line' with something. This keeps those parts "in phase"

3. The ways to adjust the pinion -to- output relationship include degree shims beneath the leafpacks, changing the rear spring shackle length, or dropping the t-case.

Steel degree shims and or slightly dropping the crossmember/case would the direction I'd go. This requires you to unbolt the axle and free up the leafpacks again, but since your AAL is out of order, that's on the schedule. The trick is to get the ones that are appropriate for your ride height - they come in 2* increments over a 2-8* range. I'd also get at least one other pair of spring-center bolts... since I kill them pretty much every time I mess with em.

I think you'll be fine driving that little way with the AAL leafs out of order...

HTH

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

Is it normal for a 2" RE BB to lift the Jeep 2.75" and 3.25"?

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few problems

woody said:

I think 90Pioneer still has a slip-yoke/1 pc driveshaft and not a splined 2pc driveshaft with SYE.

Weren't the '96s and newer more sensitive to angles? The XJ slipyoke has less 'throat' clearance than a YJ type yoke, thus less operating angle-which 'could' lead to binding.


2: I'd clean and service the driveshaft (replace the old UJs with new Spicer) and unless it's known to be fresh, I'd replace the fluid in the case -a few oz. will seep out when the rear shaft is removed. Be certain to note or mark which way the shaft and yoke were mated....make a 'witness line' with something. This keeps those parts "in phase"

HTH

Click to expand...

The 96 and newer slip yoke is a completley different design than the older XJ's. The splines are external of the the TC, so therefore they do not use the TC fluid for lube, it use's chassis grease or equvelent, but there's just no grease nipple. Also that's why you will not loose any TC fluid with driveshaft removal.

Also, the 96 and newer XJ's already have the longer YJ slip yoke from the factory, so he should have plenty of engagment even with the amount of lift he has. His suspension will settle some too, so that should help also.

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few probl

Well I just finished up the 3 hour drive. Yucca-Man, those are the style of shock mounts I have.

I am hearing a couple of different noises... there is a loud rumbling/humming sound at around 60mph to 72mph. When I rest my arm on the center console I can feel vibrations. Am I feeling driveline vibes here? Is there any way to fix them, other than a t case drop?

Now about the noise I'm hearing when I let off the gas. It says constant for a few seconds, then it'll stop, and start again. Kind of a grinding or a rattling sound. It does sound like it's coming out of the back of the t case. Does this sound like an ungrease slip yoke?

Where can I order those U Joints at? Which ones should I replace?

I also found the stock brake line to be long enough for this lift. Is there any reason I should go ahead and replace it with the one supplied?

I also forgot to mention of have the Chrysler 8.25 rear end. What size u bolts will I need fit this axel?

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few probl

I forgot this was on a 96 - your username got in the way of logical thought processes after the first couple replies. C8.25" use a 3" axletube and u-joint.

Grease the slipyoke, that could still be the source of the noise although with the 60-72mph vibes I'm willing to bet you've got some t-case vibes and may need to measure and shim the rear axle to get the pinion angle to match the t-case output angle.

Don't accept anything other than Spicer replacements for your u-joints; go to NAPA and get three 5-153X u-joints for the rear shaft. If you decide to do the front as well, get three more. They should be about $12-15 each.

The replacement brakeline is good insurance against overstretching, and when you decide to lift farther it will be installed already.

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few probl

Yucca-Man said:

I forgot this was on a 96 - your username got in the way of logical thought processes after the first couple replies. C8.25" use a 3" axletube and u-joint.

Grease the slipyoke, that could still be the source of the noise although with the 60-72mph vibes I'm willing to bet you've got some t-case vibes and may need to measure and shim the rear axle to get the pinion angle to match the t-case output angle.

Don't accept anything other than Spicer replacements for your u-joints; go to NAPA and get three 5-153X u-joints for the rear shaft. If you decide to do the front as well, get three more. They should be about $12-15 each.

The replacement brakeline is good insurance against overstretching, and when you decide to lift farther it will be installed already.

Click to expand...

Well I wasn't expecting having to any shimming. What is this process, and where can I find the shims? Where in the leaf would they be installed? Does anyone know a precise way to measure the driveshaft angles?

With the new u bolts, I'll need them 3" x what length? Or are they all one length?

Re: RE 2" budget boost w/ full length add-a-leafs installed. Need help w/ a few probl

Check out the thread titled "vibe woes" http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=318343#post318343 for more info on measuring. The degree shims go between the axle pad and the spring with the thick part in the back to point the pinion up. I'm not sure off the top of my head how long to get the u-bolts; but it's easier to buy them long and cut them down. I want to say my last pair was ridiculously over-long at 9" or something like that...