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Steering and Rod end questions for the Gurus

M

mississippi_xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
guntown, ms
1316488crossoversteering.jpg


This is what I am thinking of doing with my steering....

The misalignment bushings would be 5/8" on top of passanger knuckle and under pitman arm..... all others would be 1/4 ".

After I drew the picture i decided that i would not need the misalignment bushings between the knuckle/pitman arm and the bolt head on the pitman and drivers side knuckle. correct?

I just wanted the more experineced guys to critique it.

any in put is appreciated

thanks

scotty
 
I followed BulletProof's diagram for my steering. Some I bought from them and some I made myself. Depending on how much lift and how much articulation you have...you will need to put misalignment washers on both ends of the drag link. If you have more than stock droop it will be very important to have. Otherwise you put a lot of load on the Pitman arm. You don't want the droop to be limited by the long lever arm of the drag link on the Pitman arm to be your limiting factor.
 
That is what i am planning on doing to my jeep although i am going to try to do the tie rod over the steering knuckels. If i can get it all to fit that is.
 
Danno... I haven't seen their diagram...... you got a link? I would love to see some pics of your setup if you got them.

PFunk242.... I thought about going over knuckle, but I figure the load on the passanger side bolt should be much better with this setup....

bburge.... I wouldn't mind geting their setup, but I could build this setup and a spare to keep with me on the trail for what it cost..... The bulletproof steering setup is undoubtably better :)


Does anyone see any flaw in my design with the exception of needing larger misalignment bushings on both ends of the drag link?

thanks guys

scotty
 
here is a link that will get you there. their sight is kinda hard to look thru. Just keep looking at all the pages.
I don't have my D30 on my XJ anymore. I did use the over the knuckle setup. It worked well. I've gone to a Dana 44 with chevy flattop knuckles. It's not better just beefier as I'm now running 36s. Use the Bullet Proof design. It works really well with a D30.

http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringoption.html
 
so... it looks like over the knuckle may be the way to go.... danno. what grade hardware did you use? I am thinking grade 8 will be the way to go....

does it matter if teh bolts I use are smooth where they pass through everything? Can I just use bolts that are threaded down the whole lenght?

thanks
 
1316705otkdraft.jpg


here we go updated for OTK..... hows it look now?

If this is good I guess the next question would be could you build a tracbar in a similar fashion?

I was thinking of using the factroy steering stabalizer mount to help with tracbar angles a little....

scotty
 
Last edited:
well....

I just spent a few minutes noseing around under the front end of my jeep....

looks to me that if you built a tracbar and utalized the factory SS mount the angles would be near perfect with OTK steering....

The only real issue I could see would be the sway bar mounts.... I might could have some of those cut out on a CNC plazma cutter a buddy of mine has.
 
I'd buy one of Bullet Proof's big bolts (grade 10 I think) to go on the Pitman arm side. The rest of them I'm using grade 8 from Tractor Supply. It's the Pitman arm bolt that really gets stressed.
 
mississippi_xj said:
1316705otkdraft.jpg


here we go updated for OTK..... hows it look now?

If this is good I guess the next question would be could you build a tracbar in a similar fashion?

I was thinking of using the factroy steering stabalizer mount to help with tracbar angles a little....

scotty
Click to expand...

Do you think there will be a strength issue having the draglink and tierod both on top of the knuckle on the pass side? The draglink will put more leverage on the knuckle with that configuration.
 
Sway bar mounts do get in the way. Mine's trail-only, so I cut them off. I actually ended up re-locating the tie rod to under the knuckle. I was worried about stress on the pass-side bolt. I've also drilled the bolts for cotter pins since this pic, for safety reasons.

Dsc02233.jpg
 
96country said:
The draglink will put more leverage on the knuckle with that configuration.
Click to expand...

Bingo!!!

Try running the tie rod knuckle to knuckle and fixing the drag link to the tie rod so it points directly at the arm on the knuckle.

JMO
 
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