i have an 89 laredo and it has the small triangle front with the small sqaure windows they leak and have a lot of wind noise and i was wondering how hard it would be to take the windows, tracks and regulators out of a newer cherokee and retro fitting it into mine. will it work?
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
full front windows?
- Thread starter 89laredo
- Start date
- Location
- Yucaipa, CA
The regulators will fit but the front window track is welded to the inside of the door. It would be easier to swap the entire door out but the striker and latch locations have been lowered about an inch and the striker style is different as well. I just did this, not to long ago. You will also have to change all four doors if you want your door panels to match. (assuming you have a four door)
The end result is great, but it's not a bolt on swap.
It would be much easier to swap in the fixed wing window that doesn't open to fix your leaks. I think that is a direct swap.
HTH, Dan
The end result is great, but it's not a bolt on swap.
It would be much easier to swap in the fixed wing window that doesn't open to fix your leaks. I think that is a direct swap.
HTH, Dan
hey dan, did you take any photos of your conversion? i want to just what you did, only becaue both of my doors have so many dings and one has a long dent/scratch from a tree branch. i figure i could get full doors for cheaper than the bodywork and upgrade to the full window and maybe even power options. those may take me a while to hook up. anyhow, i was suprised to learn it wasn't bolt on. glad to see someone innovated around it though. were there good mounting locations for the new hinges and strikers (like the factory indents), or did you have to cut, bash, shim and weld things? thanks for any help
-mike
-mike
- Location
- Yucaipa, CA
If you take the factory striker out, cut the striker post off flush to the base (the hex part on top of the spacer/ washer at the door jamb) Be sure to leave enough of the hex so you can tighten the striker. Then take a 5/16 bolt, IIRC, and cut the hex off. Weld the bolt to what's left of the original striker, down at the bottom edge of the washer. This should give you about the right spacing, and it will still be adjustable. Trim 5/16" bolt down to about an inch long or so. This part will be trial and error, trim until the door closes and latches. Do this part with the door panel off so you can manually release the latch if it fits too tight. Repeat with the other three doors.
The hinges will bolt right up, but have fun getting to the bolts. I had to use a quality (snap-on) torx socket, grind to flat sides on the socket, and clamp a pair of vice grips to the socket. The door jamb is too narrow to get a socket and ratchet in there. There are holes in the hinge to access these if you have your fenders off, and the rear doors are the same if you remove some plastic trim. The doors have to be almost closed to utilize these holes.
Good luck, Dan
The hinges will bolt right up, but have fun getting to the bolts. I had to use a quality (snap-on) torx socket, grind to flat sides on the socket, and clamp a pair of vice grips to the socket. The door jamb is too narrow to get a socket and ratchet in there. There are holes in the hinge to access these if you have your fenders off, and the rear doors are the same if you remove some plastic trim. The doors have to be almost closed to utilize these holes.
Good luck, Dan
