Full Traction 6" Lift

[Harvo]

Thanks to the advice of some of you guys, I think I have decided on 6" of lift (or close to it). I do have a couple of questions I hope you can help me out with.

Does anyone have any experience with the Full Traction 6" lift? How does it work compared to others? It sounds good... but you know how ad hype is.

I know that Bushwhacker Flares require some trimming. Do they require enough trimming to fit 33's on a 4.5 inch lift?

And finally... With either a 4.5 or a 6" lift, do you have to change the steering right away, or is it possible to use the stock stuff until you aren't poor anymore from buying the lift.

Thanks---
Kevin

[GottaBeJeep]

The FT kit is a great setup. Very impressive.

You can fit 33's on 4.5" lift easily with trimming, even without BW flares. I used to have BW flares, but got rid of them because they actually got in my way.

You will be fine with stock steering, even up to 6" lift. No 4" drop pitman arms or any of that stuff necessary. Of course the FT kit comes with a drop pitman arm (1"?), but the trackbar bracket drops the trackbar to match, so it is actually setup correctly, instead of using a big DPA without addressing the trackbar/draglink geometry like some people do, or are told to do by those without knowledge of proper steering geometry.

[ruggedjeep]

Here is Full-tractions XJ, 33's and BW this was at off road expo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v98/rugdjp/Jeeps/fulltraction.jpg
Dont know why they havent cut the stock CA mount off...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v98/rugdjp/Jeeps/longarm.jpg
and here is another, 6" LA w/BW on 33's
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v98/rugdjp/Jeeps/DSCN1293.jpg

[sidriptide]

i dont like the full traction kit because they use heim joints on the control arms (unless they changed it in the last year)... i just dont beleive heim joints are strong enough and designed well enough to support the weight of the truck.. IMHO they are just a steering joint thats been beefed up.. i know for a fact that their kit works, but i question it longevity. i like a joint that is rebuildable/serviceable.. not just disposable when it goes bad...
theres my .37

flame away.... :wave:

[Harvo]

So let me pose this question... What would you reccommend.

Rubicon Express 5.5 inch extreme duty with or without long arms

or the Full Traction 6 "

Kevin

[bj-666]

the full traction 6 i like it a lot although mine has straight lower arms unlike the pic shown i have not officiall wheeled mine yet so i can't say much but the road ride is decent. the front sway bar setup is wack though just buy jks' and be done. be warned the instructions suck but is fairly eazy to put together. and as for the heims they are as big as my hand (super beefy) look for cap'tnemo he has the same kit and has had the oportunity to wheel his much more than i have.

[sidriptide]

i havent been impressed with the RE long-arm kit yet but that doenst mean its not good, i like the rest of their stuff.. i have my heart set on a Clayton Hard-Arm kit...

http://www.claytonoffroad.com/

http://www.claytonoffroad.com/has/HAXJFS-m.gif

he has a great warranty on his equipment too...

thats my wish list..

[PapaPump]

people keep posting reccomendations fot the clayton hard arm kit as an alternative to the FT kit. keep in mind that the suspension designs between these two are a lot different. there is a reason that the FT kit costs much more: it takes a lot more engineering to make a kit cycle the axle correctly. radius arms just can't do that. that is why jeep went with the 5-link geometry from the factory, to maitan proper steering geometry ans have more linear wheel travel. something that seems to be a major drawback of the radius arm kits is that they are too solidly mounted. you see people running only one of the UCA braces because of the cycling radius arms go through. when the axle travels up, the castor pivots backwards, meanwhile the other side travels downward and the castor pivots backwards. in this situation the axle is trying to twist the housing. you can use radius arms on a solid axle. you just have to allow this twist or not try and control it in oppisite directions, as almost all of the long arm kits do. take a look at an early ford bronco. they have solid axles and radius arms. the attachment for the radius arms attaches with two c-shaped rubber bushings that are about 1.5 inches thick in the middle. bronco guys often reccomend not using poly here for the very same reason the jeep guys are having to remove an upper arm.

[jjvande]

people keep posting reccomendations fot the clayton hard arm kit as an alternative to the FT kit. keep in mind that the suspension designs between these two are a lot different. there is a reason that the FT kit costs much more: it takes a lot more engineering to make a kit cycle the axle correctly. radius arms just can't do that. that is why jeep went with the 5-link geometry from the factory, to maitan proper steering geometry ans have more linear wheel travel. something that seems to be a major drawback of the radius arm kits is that they are too solidly mounted. you see people running only one of the UCA braces because of the cycling radius arms go through. when the axle travels up, the castor pivots backwards, meanwhile the other side travels downward and the castor pivots backwards. in this situation the axle is trying to twist the housing. you can use radius arms on a solid axle. you just have to allow this twist or not try and control it in oppisite directions, as almost all of the long arm kits do. take a look at an early ford bronco. they have solid axles and radius arms. the attachment for the radius arms attaches with two c-shaped rubber bushings that are about 1.5 inches thick in the middle. bronco guys often reccomend not using poly here for the very same reason the jeep guys are having to remove an upper arm.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39522

this is the current discussion. 12" travel shocks and no problems. bushings are rubber and are ment to flex. we dont HAVE to remove the arm. I do like the FT kit a lot (sont have it), but with the straight arms, not the bent ones pictured above.

and about the susp. cycling properly... the FT still cycles the axle in a radius, its a SMAller radius than claytons because the arms are shorter. The FT does keep the axle castor more constant throughout the cycle. im not trying to sound mad or anything...just pointing some things out. :chef:

[XJ_ranger]

I have no expierence with longarms or any of the kits, however, this one looks promising - http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=18863

Steering - stock steering will work with about a 6" lift
im running 5.5" short arms right now and have plenty of threads left on my draglink.
I would worry about box pull trhough depending on tire size. I havent had any problems with the 235/75"s yet, but plan to beef up when i get to 33"x11.5"
http://www.geocities.com/opiebennett@sbcglobal.net/tech.html
Hope this is helpful

-Ranger

[PapaPump]

I am just not sure they built enough flex into the bushings. I really like the idea of unequal length control arms, as the jeep engineers did. the upper and lower arms follow different paths, pulling and pushing the castor into the correct position. I don't really have a problem with radius arms in general, they flex really well. I am curious why there wouldn't just be a single central UCA to control axle wrap and locate the axle without inhibiting flex or binding due to castor differences.

[fluidmotion]

have you checked out the Rustys Long Arm kit yet? my buddy runs it and he loves it. to me it looks pretty solid. ive been lookin into doing the rustys long arm upgrade with my RE 5.5 kit that i have now. and i run 33x12.5 tires with stock steering components except a drop pitman arm and everything works great. im going to go up to 35's a little while down the road though but i wont need to change anything.

[Jaysheep]

have you checked out the Rustys Long Arm kit yet? my buddy runs it and he loves it. to me it looks pretty solid. ive been lookin into doing the rustys long arm upgrade with my RE 5.5 kit that i have now. and i run 33x12.5 tires with stock steering components except a drop pitman arm and everything works great. im going to go up to 35's a little while down the road though but i wont need to change anything.

I have the rustys long arm and it is an OK (at best) kit..... But I would never give another penny to Rusty's offroad due to there lack of concern after they get your money and the very poor shipping. It took over 3 months for my "kit" to arrive (suposedly it was in stock.) Then even after I got it it had to be remachined to fit properly.

[Sterling90XJ]

.
Doesn't Full Traction use the rear bracket piece that bolts to the rear diff, in between the cover and housing? If so, I've heard stories about the thing pulling the cover away and causing leaks. Now if they can find another way to securing it other than using the cover bolts, then I'd be more likely to consider it.

In my opinion, Long Arms on an XJ are pretty much a waste of money. Unless you do coil-overs in the rear, the front will flex well, but the rear will not follow. On a TJ, yes, but an XJ... save your money.

.

2000 XJ Sport 'Freedom Edition' w/ 6" lift and 33" MTRs

www.arcticoffroad.com

[outfitterguy]

The radius arm style long arm kits, like the RE kits generaly keep pinion angles more correct when the suspension is going to extremes and limits the stress on the drive line components. Other companys focus on the castor change when flexing wich seems to be more important in high speed driving, so I 've been told, than slow speed crawling; I am not an expert by any means but this is how it has been explained to me. PS short arm works great, long arm rides best and works fantastic also. Trade offs on the short arm to name a few are bouncier ride, and with taller lifts the chance of standing the arm up (extending it) too far; however the short arm if set up correctly tends to be superior when climbing very steep inclines. That said, a long arm can do every thing a short arm can but better and smoother(and they look cool)...although there is a little more dialing in to do when you go long. Good luck on your decision.

RE7.5 XJLA, dana44 rear,high pinion 44front,terralo,RE resi shocks,456,eaton e lockers f&r,yada, yada....

[Gojeep]

I find it funny that I see all these radius arm conversions on Jeeps when here in Oz, they sell 4 link with panhard rod conversions to get rid of the radious arms on Landcruisers and Nissan Patrols if you want more travel!!

[CartsXJ]

Dont know why they havent cut the stock CA mount off...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v98/rugdjp/Jeeps/longarm.jpg



So the kit can be used for JeepSpeed. According to the rule book, the orginal suspension mount most be present. They have two versions, straight lowers and bent lowers, depending on what you do with your XJ, is what you order.

[Ramsey]

where would one be more beneficial than the other?

[shimmy]

where would one be more beneficial than the other?

isn't the bent arms for more clearance? like if you want to leave your stock LCA mounts on like FT, lol...

brandon

[Ramsey]

yeah i guess so can keep that mount there. i'll try to think before i post next time