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View Full Version : driveshaft problems HELP PLEASE


Silverstreak01
November 15th, 2004, 01:39
i have a 2001 cherokee . 3inch skyjacker 2inch shackels. i recently put a SYE and woods shaft in it. well i didnt tork the rear yoke properly and the rear bearings went. so in goes a new 8.25. i drove it about 600miles and the rear shaft came completly out of were it goes into the rear yoke. sheered 2 of the bolts off. my drive shaft is at like no angle i dont know why im having so much trouble? it was running fine no vibration AT all . any advise beside junk it? haha thanks guys

Yucca-Man
November 15th, 2004, 01:57
Sounds like the u-joint wasn't seated properly in the pinion yoke, and the imbalance threw it out. What two bolts sheared? On the pinion yoke, on the drivshaft, or what?

I wouldn't call this "so much trouble" since you know the source of the first problem. I'm just having a hard time visualizing exactly what the second one is though.

Silverstreak01
November 15th, 2004, 02:06
the rear of the drive shaft there were 2 little metal kinda u-shaped brackets that bolts went threw into the yoke that held it on. theres 4 2 sheered right off then the shaft just came completely out

Big Bear
November 15th, 2004, 06:20
You need to call and talk to Tom or Troy. They will be able to give you some ideas of what might have happened. These guys will take care of you.

XJEEPER
November 15th, 2004, 06:46
You need to call and talk to Tom or Troy. They will be able to give you some ideas of what might have happened. These guys will take care of you.

I agree with Mike, Woody and Troy will help you, but......... using your description of what happened (making some assumptions here), it really sounds to me like the pinion yoke u-joint straps weren't installed properly, or that they'ed stretched to the point of allowing play in the ujoint yoke which caused it to wiggle free and break the bolts. It is recommended that these straps are replaced with new ones everytime they are removed, due to stretching.

A better solution is to replace the cheezy stamped sheetmetal strap with a stronger U-bolt style strap, sometimes this requires a new pinion yoke depending on the model of the rearend, but often one can just drill the holes larger, eliminating the threads so that the ubolt style will slide through the holes. I've performed this mod on Dana rears, not sure about the 8.25 setup.

Danno
November 15th, 2004, 06:55
I replaced my front axle in September and had to put a new"Woody" DS in. Apparently I didn't get the ujoint bolted down to the yoke on the tcase and the whole thing fell out on Cliffhanger in Moab. I really thought I had torqued it down well. BUT, you have to rotate the shaft and tighten down the strap bolts a little at a time or you really don't get it down properly. It will work off if you don't. Live and learn!

old_man
November 15th, 2004, 07:26
Loctite is your friend:laugh3:

Silverstreak01
November 17th, 2004, 21:28
thanks for the ideas guys. im probably going to have to drill the sheered off bolts anyway so i should just go a little bigger and use bigger bolts and loctite?. .. they dont make anything stronger then the stamped little metal clips>? thanks for all your help you guys always make it seam not so bad/ its happend to me.

Yucca-Man
November 17th, 2004, 21:39
.. they dont make anything stronger then the stamped little metal clips>? thanks for all your help you guys always make it seam not so bad/ its happend to me.Yeah they do, those are the yoke straps mentioned earlier. You've got a C8.25, and can drill the threads out of the pinion yoke to use the stronger yoke straps.

You had this type:
http://www.downloadfreetrial.com/photos/p6687.jpg

You want this type:
http://www.downloadfreetrial.com/photos/p6688.jpg
These come in several sizes so you have to match it up to the one that fits your application; I don't have the part numbers with me on that one anymore. The yokes are available through many sources including the "Help!" section at most auto parts stores.

Silverstreak01
November 17th, 2004, 22:00
so i drll out a tiny bit bigger then the sheer off bolt thats in there?

Yucca-Man
November 17th, 2004, 22:28
Okay, I dug one out of the back of the Jeep. www.motormite.com is friggin' slow so I can't get a part number yet, but here's the measurements:
Center-center across the ends is 1.375"
Inner diameter 1.125"
Height is 2"
0.5" nuts

As mentioned in PMs, the threads need to be drilled out parallel to the existing holes; you only want to clean the threads out without wallowing the holes out too far. Hope that helps.

JEONLYEP
November 17th, 2004, 22:33
Take the yoke off the Jeep, if you haven't already. Then drill from the back to the front, with a slightly smaller bit than the bolt. With luck the broken bolts will turn out of the yoke. (This is easier than getting a flat spot to use a reverse cutting drill bit coming from the front side.) If your really lucky, or good, you can do this without even damaging the treads in the yoke, so you can either go back to the straps, or drill the holes out more and use the u-bolts.

For the d35 rear I used U-bolts from a company called Precision Universal Joint. Part number 534-10

Sorry I'm not sure if they are the right ones for the 8.25

Edit: a drill press makes keeping everything lined up much easier.

Daryl

Everything I say is full substantiated by my own opinion.

Silverstreak01
November 17th, 2004, 22:35
alright sounds good. it will be my little friday project haha. thanks again

junkxj
November 17th, 2004, 22:49
I had the same problem. I broke those shaty little parts twice. The part # your looking for is 9458, it is a spicer part. I used a 5/16 bit (if I rember right)to drill out the yoke. You also have to do some grinding on the back of the yoke to make the nuts fit flush with the yoke. I looked in the help section and could not find anything as big that fit. This works great, and I have yet to break it. I think this is the first mod anyone should do to a 8.25. Hope this helps

I posted this after the last few posts were up, and forgot to mention about the drill press. Pretty much a must.

Yucca-Man
November 17th, 2004, 23:02
Junkxj - availability in the Help section varies; I know I got mine there but they're not always there. As noted above, there are other sources as well though.

junkxj
November 17th, 2004, 23:08
I am sure it does. The help section at Advance had 3 diffrent yoke ubolt kits, and they were all to small. The parts guy was no help with the sizes, so I opened all 3 in front of him. None of them fit, and I told him if he had helped me in the first place I wouldn't of had to open them. Plus they didn't seem to be as well made as the spicer parts.

JEONLYEP
November 17th, 2004, 23:39
I have a great relationship with my parts store. When I found mine I had them get me a set of the straps for my XJ, then we got out all the u-bolts they had for u-joints and looked for a u-bolt that fit into the straps. then I took a u-joint and put in the yoke and checked to make sure the u-bolts were long enough to go thru.

But I'm sure most places wouldn't let you open that many boxes and look thru the shelves yourself. :lecture: But it pays to be a loyal custom, especially of a "mom and pop" style of store. :soapbox:

Well it's getting late, I'm worried that I'm not making sense.

Daryl

Silverstreak01
November 18th, 2004, 11:08
great guys. after all that. How do i torq the rear yoke enough? i dont want to go through another rear because it wasnt torqd properly. i heard jack up the back and torq it till the tires spin? thanks guys

keith

junkxj
November 18th, 2004, 14:41
No, thats not the right way to do it. If you put a big breaker bar on the pinion nut you can make the tires spin with all the xjs weight on it. It needs to be tourqed to spec. I think it is 150-180. Use a BIG pipe wrench on the yoke to keep to keep it from turning.Good luck man

Silverstreak01
November 18th, 2004, 17:04
junkxj ! where did you get the spicer one from? an auto part store or did you order it from someone? thanks

junkxj
November 18th, 2004, 21:32
I found it at a small auto parts store here in town, Clyde Jones auto parts. They have the most random stuff you can imagine. If you want a (what ever) to fit a (what ever) they have it. Some of the stuff they have on the shelves have been there for 20 years. As far as where you can get it I am not sure, most auto parts places should be able to order it for you?I would also guess you could find it online maybe? sorry to not be more help.

XJoachim
November 18th, 2004, 23:44
http://www.4x4garage.de/images/A490KS.jpg
The Spicer number for this matching the u-joints of the driveshaft is 2-94-28X, the u-joint is a 1310 u-joint with Spicer part number 5-153X. Just drill out the holes a bit and they fit. For the front Dana 30 you can use a AMC20 Yoke, this one is already drilled for the u-bolts.

Silverstreak01
November 25th, 2004, 13:20
i talked to troy at tom woods they actually sell a heavy duty rear yoke drilled out already with the u bolt kit. i ordered that i also sent the shaft back to make sure everything was ok.

junkxj
November 25th, 2004, 23:18
THat really ****es me off. I looked every where for a yoke for the 8.25 ready for the ubolts. I guess the only place I didn't look was tom woods. Thanks for the info. How much was it. The cheapest yoke I could find was $55 from the dealership.

Silverstreak01
November 26th, 2004, 05:21
yea it ticks me off a little to i wish they would have mentioned it. i buy a "heavy duty" cv shaft sye and come to find out thoes little metal bands are the weekest part of the drivetrain....i even bought a new yoke from them.. well live and learn i suppose. but they do sell one all ready for around 50$

RCP Phx
November 26th, 2004, 06:12
There is no torque value for the 8.25 since it uses a crush sleeve,the correct pinion pre-loads sets it!