valve cover gasket on '98 4.0...

I'm replacing with factory gasket, any tips to quicken the job? I noticed on the factory gasket there are metal cross "members" with holes, I guess they're for the rocker arm assembly, which suggests that the gasket goes on the block first and not the cover. Does this sound logical? FSM is not that specific.

Oh yeah, any suggestions on rtv or indian head?

Thanks,

Mike/NY #300

Crossmembers on a valve cover gasket? Must be an HO thing, my RENIX XJ's don't have anything like that. The closest I can think of would be the steel "crush sleeves" I've seen on some aftermarket gaskets - they're there to keep you from crushing the gasket when tightening. Supposedly, the cast ridges near the bolt holes on the 242 valve cover are the same thing, but don't let that fool you...

Use RTV Black or Permatex Gasket Eliminator #518 with the gasket. I gave up on Indian Head Shellac a long time ago because it gets hard (which doesn't help) and is a pain to clean off of parts (which I don't like.) Here are some pointers.

Tear everything down you need to get to the mating surfaces for the valve cover and cylinder head.

Remove all traces of old gasket and/or sealant - use Scotch-Brite pads or wheels, or perhaps a brass brush for the tougher parts.

Coat both sides of the new gasket with a thin (1/16" or so) layer of RTV Black or Gasket Eliminator #518. Set the gasket in place.

After about two minutes (to give the sealant time to start "tacking up,") set the valve cover in place and install the bolts finger tight only.

With a light torque wrench, tighten the valve cover bolts to about 36-40 inch pounds (about 3 foot pounds.) Go get a sandwich.

After 1/2 hour, come back and tighten to 84 inch-pounds (12 foot pounds.)

Allow to set for a minimum of 12 hours.

Normally, I'd not be so specific with a valve cover gasket, but the 242 seems to want to be really picky about how it gets sealed. Go figure - not only do you not want to crush the gasket, but you have to allow the sealant time for it to do its job. I just chalk it up to being a "Jeep thing" and account for it as part of the job...

5-90

5-90,

Thanks for the detailed install directions; I'll post a photo of the gasket on Webshots by late tonight and show you what I mean.

I already gunked the top of the motor, probably do the job next weekend when the xj can sit idle for that amount of time. Might as well do the new water pump too I bought 50k ago I thought I needed but didn't.

Thanks again,

Mike/NY#300

http://community.webshots.com/user/pribblesoon

Here's the photos,

Mike/NY #300

Interesting. Does the body of the gasket have a metal core? Looks like it does...

My best guess would be that it is some sort of "frame" to keep the shape of the gasket from getting distorted during install. I've never seen it before, tho...

The fact of having a frame to make the gasket hold shape won't prevent crush, so install with care. You would probably still do well to follow the instructions I gave you earlier, borne of experience...

5-90

Yeah, there's a metal frame beneath the rubber. I'm certainly going to take you up on the directions, thanks again...

Mike/NY #300

The metal croos pieces locate the newer VC gasket. If you replace with the factory one, there should be no reason to use RTV etc. If you replace with a cork one, then you might use RTV.
Tom