Feul Pump Assembly Replacement

I am going to replace the fuel pump this weekend. I would appreciate some tips from people who have done this, to make it go a bit smoother. I am wrestling with the idea of dropping the tank, but I really don't want to. Comments on this issue would be appreciated.

I suppose I should replaced the fuel filter at the same time. What other parts should be swapped?

Thanks for the help

Geoff

dropping the tank is necessary on 97-and up, it is also fairly simple unless you have an aftermarket hitch reciever. the new unit should come with a filter and gasket. as for the actual procedure I have done it twice and it still leaks at the top gasket, and no one sells one without the 80 dollar pump. be sure to seal the vent hose with a small hose clamp, tie wraps evidently don't hold.

Use a wheeled floor jack with a board on it to lower and raise the tank, pre-soak the j-bolts.

So i'm assuming you have a 97+? If so i cant give ya tips from experience but i did my 93 about 4 or 5 months ago and it was cake...the hardest part was getting the damn nuts off the bolts that hold the tank straps on bc i decided to drop the tank just to make the job easier....dropping the tank is simple if your bolts arent all rusted. Goodburbon hit it on the nose w/ the rest of it...using the wood and jack to lower it..let us know if you have any specific questions..,.Good luck

I have a 1990. Sorry for not mentioning that. I have an after market hitch as well as a gas tank skid. I haven't looked at it yet, but i bet I am going to have to remove the skid aren't I.

I hope to be able to just deal with the working position of laying on my back and get it done that way, but if there is a strong consensus to drop the tank, I will take your suggestion.

Geoff

Dropping the tank is NOT necessary. Trust me on this one - I've done this like 5 times (due to crappy pumps from autozone). Yes, dropping the tank would give you more room, but it's not necessary.

Some Suggestions:
#1) Make sure your tank is nearly empty.
#2) Lift the rear and take off the gas cap.
#3) Disconnect the battery.
#4) Use goggles. Getting gas in your eyes feels like napalm (don't ask me how I know) :gee:
#5) Relieve the pressure by removing the fuel filter (replace it)
#6) Use either a brass dowel or piece of wood to tap out the retaining ring (sparks don't work well back there)
#7) Without lowering the tank, the pump will come out at a weird angle, but trust me - it will come out without having to yank or bend it.
#8) Remember to also replace the fuel strainer (attached to the bottom of the pump.)
The fuel strainer often gets stuck in the guide at the bottom of the tank. The very first time I tried this, I could not understand why the new pump/strainer would not fit down right. That is, until I realized that the old strainer was still stuck in the tank.
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And finally - use a Bosch pump. Yes they're expense, but they are also the best (and quietest). The autozone ones are $cheap, and you get what you pay for. Note: I had three fail on me.
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partial thread hijack in progress!!!!

When you get a new pump- say from Quadratec- do you get everything, pull the old one out put the new one in and you're done? Check valve and all? My check valve is bad on my 91 and I'm going to replace it all if I get everything at once.

Thanks and sorry!

Thanks for the help. I have an Autozone one on hold right now, gulp. Does Bosch sell one with the whole assembly: sender, screen, and all?

I don't want to do this more than once.

Geoff

Just adding to Rticul8's wisdom: when you reinstall the pump unit, that "weird angle" at which it came out will look wrong. You may have to try several times to get the pump to seat correctly (the little rubber thing at the end must center in a corresponding cup at the bottom of the tank). You'll know when it's right, so don't settle for wrong. The emptier the tank, the easier this is. It's actually possible, in an emergency, to do this job with about a third of a tank of gas, but the tendency of the sender to float up makes it frustrating to try to seat.

The big O-ring on the sender flange should be replaced if possible. It also will be difficult to center and seat properly, and may take a few tries to get right, as well as a few tries to get all the ears of the lockring engaged at the same time. Grease helps.

It is much easier to do with the tank out, but if you have a skid, and especially if the bolts are rusty, you're probably better off doing it with the tank in. Just leave lots of time, and plan on having to repeat some operations many times.

One more point. My jeep is lifted 3 inches. This will obviously make more room to work and make it easier to leave the tank in the truck. I am going to tackle this one with the tank left in place.

Geoff

Thanks for the advice. How long should I plan being this is my first time changing this thing? I have all day. I am just curious.

Thanks

Geoff

LOL uhh well, like i mentioned earlier...the hardest most lengthy part of this job for me was dealing w/ dropping the tank b/c of the rusted bolts holding the straps...since you arent doing this i'd say it should take you an hour to two hours...if you arent really that good w/ this type of stuff i'd say 3 as an absolute max...thats giving you room for not being able to get the pump out too easily. And like said before remember to only use a brass or wood dowel to break that seal. LOL As for not having to do this more than once....you shouldnt have bought an auto zone pump. Thats what i did but i did that b/c i knew i was selling it...started humming again w/in 6 months. Good luck w/ everything.

geo78 said:

Thanks for the advice. How long should I plan being this is my first time changing this thing? I have all day. I am just curious.

Thanks

Geoff

Click to expand...

If getting the angle right off..not long at all, maybe 90 minutes, doing the fuel filter and the pump. If the angle is messed up, and you spend a lot of time fishing for the thrice damned screen that falls off IN the tank, just under 4 hours. And yep..the checker 'look we saved ya money!' fuel pump failed in 8 months..the day before going down to Moab. If you use a light..try one of those floresecent tube kind, you really don't want a lightbulb popping around a bunch of gas fumes. The screen on the pump I got, kept catching in the baffles and was a pain to get worked in there..but slid right in once we got it right. 1989, mine is, and we didn't take the tank off either time.

I haven't purchased the Auto Zone pump yet but was planning on doing so tonight. I want to replace the entire assembly. Does Bosch make the entire kit for simplicity sake?

Geoff

I think the lift will help a lot. One of my biggest problems when I did it was reaching around the axle while lying on my back, especially when reinstalling the lockring.

Re: Fuel Pump Assembly Replacement

Has anyone changed a fuel filter on a 99+XJ? I know it is in the tank but was wondering if the filter is part of the sending/pump unit or if it was seperate? I can't get a straight answer from the stealership. I searched through this forum and didn't see anyone mention this. If anyone can help out it would be great. Thanks in advance.

hey i dont wanna hijack but im also gonno do this on my 90" b/c my sending unit doesnt work ( and yes its the unit) so i pulled the whole assembly off my 88 parts xj. should i use any rtv or anything on the gasket? im a little nervous of getting a leak since ill have to use an old gasket.