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cutting lower rear quarter

Ramsey

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Shreveport, LA
i have been looking around here and have definetly gotten mixed feelings. thinking about doing it the foldover style and then either welding, pop riveting, or screwing them to close with some sealant as well. just wondering if anyone has noticed a substancial loss of strength to the unibody, or is this similar to the removing the rear hatch and folding like a taco theory
 
as long as it is "boxed" properly and welded it would be fine.. if you are doing this because of rusty panels i would add some additional metal to it
 
nope no rust, just taking the trimming to the next step
 
I just folded the inner wall to make the bottom and cut the outer quarter about 3/8" below the upper bend - I then hammered the extra 3/8" over to secure the inner wall that is now the floor of the pocket...

I used no fastners at all - I used the mechanical crimp of the hammering and some expanding foam to seal the seam...

Worked fine for a number of years... - Then I cut the whole back end off

Matt
 
I just cut it all off and let the back of my jeep fill up with mud!
No really I did...
Don't do this!
Bad!
33%3B%3C952%3B23232%7Ffp58%3Dot%3E2334%3D%3C8%3A%3D324%3DXROQDF%3E232367786595%3Aot1lsi

You can see on that one I used a peice for the bottom but not the other side

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I cut mine out all the way around, then went and purchased a mudflap for an 18 wheeler. I just cut what i needed to close up the opening. I used a piece to go from outside inner to outside outer. I attached them with self tapping screws and washers (stainless steel).
Then i used a small piece of mudflap to close as much of a gap as possible, screwed a piece from the inner fender and tucked it inside the large piece of mudflap. And the same on the rear of the jeep, under the taillights, and tucked it inside the largr piece. I will get a little bit of water in there, but it runs out. Rubber won't rust, plus if i come down on a rock it will cushion somewhat. Plus, i have great clearance.
Oh! and if you want while you have that large opening, before you close it up, go and purchase those foam noodles that kids play with in the water, and cut them and stuff them up inside that large opening before you close it up. Helps with keeping too much water splash out of the fender (what little water gets in). And, helps with insulating and sound proofs a little also.
The only downfall i found is that, the rubber dry rots over time and needs replaced about every 2 years or as needed. Mine needs replaced before winter.
 
thanks for the responses, anyone noticed any wrinkles on the rear quarter. when i do it i plan to try and weld it good to keep its rigidity
 
i just cut mine all the way around at the lowest crease, then i cut relief cuts at every corner, folded it all in with the BFH, weleded it up good and used some 3M body sealer. i little bit of rattle can and it looks good and gave me the clearance i needed
 
yotaparts said:
i just cut mine all the way around at the lowest crease, then i cut relief cuts at every corner, folded it all in with the BFH, weleded it up good and used some 3M body sealer. i little bit of rattle can and it looks good and gave me the clearance i needed
if you could post a pic that would be great
 
Definetly add some structure back there, either welded or rivet. I left mine open for a while and results were not good. The spot welds on the body behind the taillight started pulling out and a good hit on the bumper creased the D pillar right at the bottom of the rear window.
 
Would self tapping stainless steel screws work until I can get it welded? and does anyone have pics that show how they folded it and where it ended up?
 
Thanks for the link to the old thread.
I haven't looked yet to see, but doesn't the guard for the gas tank filler tube get in the way on the drivers side?
 
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