rear side windows that open?

I have a 2 door, that I broke one of the rear side windows out. It was real easy to access the cargo area during subsequent trail repairs and I want to make a replacement window that opens on a hinge accross the top of the window frame.
I'm thinking maybe 3/16"-1/4" Lexan with a stainless steel piano hinge accross the top, questions remain about how to lock the window? (not absolutely necessary, but nice), an easy way to secure it in the closed position? weatherstrip? (thinking something out of JC Whitney)
Anyone done this? Suggestions? I am going to do both sides while I am at it.

gixj90 said:

I have a 2 door, that I broke one of the rear side windows out. It was real easy to access the cargo area during subsequent trail repairs and I want to make a replacement window that opens on a hinge accross the top of the window frame.
I'm thinking maybe 3/16"-1/4" Lexan with a stainless steel piano hinge accross the top, questions remain about how to lock the window? (not absolutely necessary, but nice), an easy way to secure it in the closed position? weatherstrip? (thinking something out of JC Whitney)
Anyone done this? Suggestions? I am going to do both sides while I am at it.

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If you can do the metal work why not use a couple of aftermarket sunroofs...

Check out your local RV places. The gasket material you need is sold by the foot. Hinges are also available that are made for that purpose. Take the window to you local glass place and they can drill the holes for the latches if you don't want to do it yourself. The drilling can be a bit touchy.

Im just thinking here, it will make it really accesable for basterd thiefs to break in.. you also mentioned that it is really handy when doing trail repaires, what so wrong with using the rear hatch instead? it almost sounds like more of a problem than anything else.. Why not install a power window on the cargo area instead that way it will still seal properly and still look stock so the theifs wont get any ideas, you can probably use the mechinism from an older full size Bronco tailgate.. I know that the window wont go all the way down because of the wheelwell but it would increase ventalation and easy access..
Also look into the mini vans or cargo vans, rear/ side cargo compartment window that pop out in the back and on the bottoms, that might help out also

Although I think this is going to be tricky and very time consuming in general, I say to each his own. I was thinking maybe you could use the latch mechanism from a rear glass flap on a truck cap. You know the kind you turn and pull. This would keep it secure and weather tight with proper weatherstripping.

Lots of camper shells are made with side windows that tip up. Think you could adapt one of those? They would have hindges, and latches already instaled, also gas props to hold them up.

I thought about doing this too. Not having A/C makes highway trips pretty warm in the summer, I would like to be able to have them open up and let some airflow through from the front. Maybe not what you were looking for, but I have been considering getting an electric side window mechanism from a newer minivan and trying to adapt that to the window. You might be able to rig it up so that it can be detached once opened, and then swung wide open for access. It would entail replacing the window with an external mounted type, like modern vehicles, and then probably also reinforcing the window frame area, because I believe that the side windows in the XJ play a structural role. Could be wrong though. Anyway, if you figure it out and do it, I for one would love to hear the results.
B.

Could you use the rear-sliding window out of a full sized truck? I’m not sure if it would provide any structural support, but it should be close to the right size. The old ‘80s full sized Chevy’s used to have sliding windows with a neat little metal latch that cammed down and locked the window halves together. That may help solve your security issue.

Beej said:

I thought about doing this too. Not having A/C makes highway trips pretty warm in the summer, I would like to be able to have them open up and let some airflow through from the front.

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If it's top-hinged and you pop it open for highway speeds, I have a feeling you might need to replace it fairly soon. The leading edge should catch some serious air and try to peel the whole window away unless you make sure it's tethered and/or in the lee of a windbreak of some type. Some early 2-door XJs had an opening vent window in the rear though didn't they?

There has been some discussion about using a polycarbonate windshield because of the strength; the rear side windows are fairly flat and it might be much easier and more theft-proof to use something like that material. A full-length hinge along the top and a pair of truck-topper style latches at the lower corners should retain it rather nicely.

old_man said:

Check out your local RV places. The gasket material you need is sold by the foot. Hinges are also available that are made for that purpose. Take the window to you local glass place and they can drill the holes for the latches if you don't want to do it yourself. The drilling can be a bit touchy.

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The side windows are tempered glass, and I don't think you can drill tempered glass. Glass shops can't either -- the holes have to be put in and the glas cut to shape before tempering. Any attempt to drill or cut tempered glass results in shattering.

Going with the pickup rear window idea, make two sliders and use that mirror adhesive stuff to attach two tracks, cut the window open to size. I don't know if the window provides structural support or not, I'm pretty sure its free floating inside that gasket but I have not really looked it to be positive.
I still think the fastest way would be to remove the stock windows, weld sheetmetal over the holes, go pickup two hinged sunroofs, cut the sheetmetal and put the sunroofs in. Most of the hinged sunroofs can also be had with a screen insert so you could remove the sunroof window for driving.
Back in the 70's I did an aftermarket T top in my dodge van and it came out well, moved the sunroof to the back and replaced the small airscoop vent I had back there. My rear windows on that were fixed in the rear doors but I found a ford van that had opening type. Found a wrecked one, removed the rear doors window hardware inlcuding the gasket/seal and put it in the dodge, had to have new windows made though, 1/2" bigger. The hinges and latch lock worked but they only opened about 3-4 inches.... cept for the glass it was pretty much bolt in, then 6 months later dodge came out with a kit, go figure...

Yucca-Man said:

If it's top-hinged and you pop it open for highway speeds, I have a feeling you might need to replace it fairly soon. The leading edge should catch some serious air and try to peel the whole window away unless you make sure it's tethered and/or in the lee of a windbreak of some type.

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I used to drive a company Ford passenger van that had three side windows (2 on one side, one on the other) that all opened up like this. They had top hinges and opened up from the bottom with a single central latch. They were fixed to not open more than about 3 inches, but they handled highway speeds no problem. I have seen similar windows on minivans too. I was talking about making it hinged at the front and latched at the rear like modern minivans.
B.

Well that is alot of ideas to chew on!, Sorry to post & then drop off the earth for awhile, been real busy @ work. I have narrowed it down to the following (all of which are dependent on finding specialty hardware)

1) make aluminum frame to support lexan window with camper shell type latch as described (original idea)

2) make aluminum frame/lexan but use some type of 1/4 or 1/2 turn quick connect stud mount couplers (sorta like the ones used to secure hard tops onto old Ford convertibles - 56 t-bird) forego the whole hinge/latch deal, remove entire window instead of hinging. I like this cause it is simpler, while wheelin, I can remove windows. Where can I find the hardware, looked in my t-bird supply books, looks difficult to adapt & pricey. Anyone know of source for odd-ball hardware?

3) I like the sunroof idea RichP, but I want to retain the factory look of the long window, most sunroofs are kinda square - jet black too, know where I can get a 4 foot long x 18 inch clear sunroof? but that still leaves the whole glass problem, glass breaks, Lexan dosen't, thanks for input though.

I am probably going to go with #2, but weld some 1/4 bolts in (through) the existing window frame, drill the lexan and put wing nuts on to hold it in. Think that will look bad? will use a simple latch hasp and pad lock on the inside for security. It is a trail only XJ so security issues are low, or turn the nuts around (use carriage bolts for securuty) and put the wing nuts on the inside? man I like folks who give me ideas - Thanks abunch! :kissyou:

I blew out my rear side window (2 dr) and replaced it by putting 4 nut zerts along the top edge, 4 along the bottom, and fastened 1/4 plex into place, used cap head screws, a quick twist with an allen wrench, spin them out by hand, whole thing takes a couple minutes. Used 1/4 sticky black foam weatherstripping onto the window frame to seal it up. Works like a charm.

Well way back when I had my 87 there was a company that made the side windows that would slide open. They were electric and half the window would slide open. I dont remember who the mfg was but they were made at one time. They cost some thing like 400 bucks per side.