Sye Front Ds

the front ds is alot smaller in width compared to the stock one, is this going to matter for using it with my sye? Im going 4.5 and 32's and need a cheap sye, can i go wheeling with this?

my front shaft is 3" shorter than my rear(AAHDSYE)...might consider this as well. 4.5" lift

cheapxj ran it for a while, maybe he will throw in some input
here is a thread to check out http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31643&highlight=sye+front
do you have the 8.25 rear end?

yes i do

One simple question. What is the highest amount of lift you can go with the SYE if you replace all the brake lines and anything else that might affect it? 8"? Higher?

Centrevillemx said:

One simple question. What is the highest amount of lift you can go with the SYE if you replace all the brake lines and anything else that might affect it? 8"? Higher?

Click to expand...

infinite? sye just makes it so that you can have a real driveshaft - with a slip joint in it, and not have your t-case output move, but intsetead have the driveshaft its self lengthen and retract.

maybe i dont understand your question...

As high as you want as long as you get the appropriate length shaft

so the angles are OK regardless of lift after an SYE?

you have to shim the axle so that it points at the output shaft on the t-case a certain way. i dont know if its at it, or just under it. so you still need to fix it by shimming.

You still have to worry about angle, as the driveshaft itself has a limit. That limit is something like 40 degrees for good ones. THat's for massive lift.

Bobsgreenxj said:

the front ds is alot smaller in width compared to the stock one, is this going to matter for using it with my sye? Im going 4.5 and 32's and need a cheap sye, can i go wheeling with this?

Click to expand...

Pick up a spare front shaft from a junk yard for cheap and then run the one you got and when you break it swap in your spare.

If you break it, decide is it worth it to upgrade or just run another stock front shaft. Look at why it broke, was it because it was weak or not taken care of, or where you doing something stupid that would have broken a bigger driveshaft?

AARON

Tube size is not an indicator of the strength of the shaft. Bigger ones are used so a thinner wall can be used you will find and ends up lighter all round. I have run one that was only 1 1/4" but was solid! I ran it as a front shaft on my Toyota pickup with a bored out 400 chev with never a failure. The shaft was out of a 930 Porsche Turbo!

OK I have a question for you. I have a customer that had a 5.5" lift fitted ( dropped a bit now ) to his 95 XJ Sport by a self proclaimed expert on Jeeps here and also had a RE 1801 kit fitted as well. The problem is that the shaft he ordered has only a standard uni each rather than the normal double cardan at one end. They could not get rid of the vibes no matter what they tried so I ended up with it. I was able to getting it running pretty well but had to drop the TC and play with shims in the rear.
But now he has got more serious with 4wding and want the extra clearance under the transfercase. I told him the only way was to use a double cardan shaft that should have been in there in the first place. A whole new shaft is nearly $1000 here so was hoping something else could be used. Can I remove the RE flange and replace it with a yoke the same as the front shaft bolts too and then run a front drive shaft? I have heard of front driveshaft being used before in the rear at a certain height and was hoping to do the same with this one. He has the rear bumpstop lower 3" as part of the lift kit installed by this place so should allow a longer shaft to be used. I can pick up a second hand front shaft for $200 so would work out cheaper that way. Any other ideas even using parts he already has?
It has a 242 with a Dana 35c rear axle. Even if I have to shorten or lengthen the shaft it still could work out cheaper. Maybe I can just use the RE flange yoke and fit the H part of the double cardan to that? Will the uni off both be the same size to allow these two to be joined?

RE sent him the wrong shaft, too? That's the same thing that happened to me when I ordered it last year, and to make matters worse the shaft that arrived was beaten up pretty badly by the time it arrived, including an end fitting that wasn't even welded on. They corrected it and sent the right one, but as it turned out the new one didn't have a grease relief hole in the now-properly-welded endpiece so it blew out my zerk end...I'm not sure I can recommend RE driveshafts at this point. I bet you've got some driveshaft shops around there that can cut the tube and put a double-cardan on it. If it was the wrong driveshaft altogether, has RE been approached to correct it?

The shaft came from a RE dealer here in Oz so dont know if it was locally made or they are RE shafts. I just need a cheap source to get the double cardan I need and why I was thinking of getting one off a front shaft. Just need to know if I have all I need to make this work and if the flange yoke off the old shaft will mate to the double cardan from the front shaft?