2 much rust on floor / about to call it quites w/ my XJ

well guys as I was pulling my Transfer case today I knowtist some rust spots on the front pasanger side floor, wondering how much rust I had I went ahead and Gutted the Jeep from the inside pulling th carpet and seats. To my amazement majority ( about 60& from firewall to rear seat) of the front Passanger side floor is heavly rusted (you can put your finger through it) Man I only had this XJ for about 6 months and now this! I got into an accident a few months ago, and the insurance salvaged the car, so I bought it back for 400.00 (93 2dr I6/Aw4 4x4) and I spent a bunch of money... its sitting on jackstands right now stripped of its axles xcasemajority of engine bay, I was transforming this into a really capable rig, I have my long arms ready to go in my rear 44 is done, and almost done with the front 44. bought me a sye kit and some 37s, I cant beleive this! I feel like my rigs got canser galor! Im thinking of just parting it out and selling it. too bad my digi camera dont work so i cant post some pics. what you think guys

Cut the "cancer" out and weld some steel plates in. Rusty floors are not a reason do part a XJ out.

Just my .02

but its not 'flat' sheet metal, its kinda starting to up the drivetrain 'hump' in the middle, how would I form such thing that can look like that.

My entire passenger side was gone! Just flat not there, when i got my XJ. I took some sheetmetal, and slowly tapped it into place with a series of hammers, from a small body hammer, to the BFH. It took a while, but I got it pretty good, and welded her in.

Then i went on the underside, and applied some rubber in a can undercoating.

Its still there and now I have to do the drivers side.

My 93 had one big ragged hole that sounds just exactly like what you describe . . . and she's as good as new now. I found that the best way to deal with the curve up the tranny tunnel, and especially the compound curve where the tunnel narrows between the seats, was to make paper patterns and cut the sheetmetal to fit in three pieces. First thing to do is cut out the cancer. Make sure you cut back to solid metal all the way around.
By placing a light under the Jeep, I was easily able to lay the paper (I used a roll of butcher's paper because the hole was MUCH bigger tha 8.5"x11") over the hole and trace around the edge with a bit of overlap.
By working the paper around, I found that cutting it in three peices worked best and allowed me to have the seams overlay the "frame" rail and seatbelt mount support. By placing the seam straight up the side of the tunnel where it narrows and over that support, the line when viewed from the door is straight. When you lay the paper flat and cut it out, however, the line actually has a curve to it. I think this step was why mine turned out so well.
Layed the paper on the sheetmetal and cut the pieces out. To then get the pieces bent to fit, temporarily secure the edge closest to the door with a couple of screws and use pressure (read that as a hand, boot, and BFH in whatever combination works for you) to bend the metal to match the curve up the side of the tunnel. I used a series of small self-tapping screws and spot welds to secure the sheetmetal to the "framerail". Weld it all solid and treat it carefully so the cancer doesn't return. I used POR on mine, and liberally coated the underside with spray-on rubberized ubdercoating. Then I Heculined the entire floorpan. It looks great and is as solid as any other part of the Jeep.
Don't let a little cancer cause you to give up on your Jeep!

You want to talk about cancer?

Been there done that! Get a set fo body hammer and dolly tools. Got mine at Harbor Freight for $20.00! Here are some pictures of mine.

Patch pannel! 18ga.


Patch pannel! 18ga.


Drivers side hole! Removal in procaess.


Passanger Hole before removal of cancer.


It can be done but make no mistake it is a lot of work!

One trick that the old muscle car guys use when they restore them is to go to eastwood.com.
They have seam sealer, rust encapsolater, sound dampener, and undercoating. I have used this stuff on mine with a 1/2" of carpet padding to quit down the sound of swampers and to stop any rust from starting and to stop what has started. I was lucky to not have much on my floor for rust. worth looking into. But rust isn't something to part it out. Can be fixed. I have restored a few GTO's in my day 65 and a 66 to show stoppers, all had rust, holes everywhere. Just take your time. and don't cut to much to weaken to structure of the unibody.

I am fixing mine right now. I have it all cut out and now I am slowly making and welding in the patches I'ts not hard it just takes a long time and is not very much fun.

For ease of body work I would highly recommend a high speed air body saw. I bought mine and used it for the first time today and all I have to say is it works great!!! Again these are also available from www.harborfreight.com

Air Body Saw part# 00113 $19.99
Body and Fender set part# 31277 $19.99

of course you will need an air compressor for the body saw

Mine looks very simular to those pictures... I not much of a body repair guy but what the hell! Thanks for motivating me guys Im gonna go ahead and see if I can fix this puppy up myself

If I can do it anyone can. it takes time so don't rush it and if we can help jsut let us know. It was fun beating the shit out of that steel after spending 6 months chasing my clutch problem! LOL!

I hate rust. Thats why I live in California.

The dealer can sell you a brand new complete floor pan assembly. I understand that it is not easy to install so some elect to cut it in half then weld it back togeterh to facilitate installation.

XJguy

wow that would be really easy from the dealership... Im wouldering how much that floor pan would cost? probably half a mill?