• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Helpppppppppp!!!!!!!!!

W

whosyourdaddy?

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cincinnati
Installing the old man emu 3" and snapped off all four upper shock bolts in unibody! I hit them with wd first, then tightened them to break the seal, then tried to take them off and all four ended up snapping off. Anyone else have this experience? Obviously I need to drill them out. I just dont want to get into screwing this whole lift up cuz of the stupid shocks and stupid 1/2 inch bolts that should have been a different design anyway. THanks in advance, this is my only source of transportation right now and i have to have it fixed today!:mad:
 
THis is in the rear of my 2000 xj. Sorry.
 
You can drill them out and retap them if you get the bolts out without messing up the threaded insert, but you most likely will. So you can reach above the cross member area and use nuts on top of the new bolts. Use some 5/16" dia bolts and nuts. It's a tight spot but you should be able to reach all 4 to install the nuts.

It happens more on older jeeps, not usually on such a new one.

mark
orgs mfg
 
Thanks for the input. I guess I just needed someones blessing to start drilling. I wouldnt mind using a hacksaw on my jeep, but drilling just sucks! I'll be in the garage.
 
For one thing get yourself some penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.WD wont work,spray em down and let them soak a bit.Go get an easy-out and cross your fingers.On assembly I use anti-seize on everything,havent had a stuck bolt yet!
 
Too late to help, but by "wd" do you mean WD-40? That was your mistake. For future reference, WD-40 is not a rust buster. You should have been using PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or one of the equivalents. With PB Blaster, it also helps to soak the bolts down for a day or three in advance of starting the job. It takes awhile to penetrate. If you just shoot and twist, nothing will work.

Bummer. I am surprised you had the problem on such a new vehicle.
 
Just realized there really is not enough access to the rear drivers shock to thru bolt. I think i can dremel or sawzall to gain access but its awful close to the gas tank. Any suggestions for opening up the access hole in the unibody crossmember?
 
I think most are going in from the inside.You drill down directly above the bolts.
 
Cant do that. Unless theres access from the cargo area. Also, Do i need to extend the rear brake line that attaches to the rear 8.25? I was told i didnt need to for install, only flex. I cant get the body high enough to install the spring w/o disconnecting the brake line. If this is the case i heard new yj lines come longer stock?
 
thats a great link. internet is awesome! Im having more problems as we speak. I thought i did enough research to not be going through this but here i am,

on a 3" lift, do i need extended shackles? the shackles arent long enough to get the rear spring bolt in. am i just at a bad angle with my body or axle? i was told i didnt need shackles.

thanks for all the help. what i really need is irc. are we anywhere on irc?
 
on to the front

had to cut the cargo area like the above link. boy did that suck. especially after i broke off a drill bit in the bolt. wooohoooo!

finally got the shackles to line up. i think i will go with the extended shackles pretty soon.

got the brake line from the yj and its about 4 inches longer but still doesnt seem to be long enough. to be determined.



done with the rear minus one thing, how long should i leave the u bolts? i'm sure i need to hack them off. couple inches above the nut?
how about torque on the ubolts? not sure about that plastic, nylon, or whatever it is
 
whosyourdaddy? said:
Installing the old man emu 3" and snapped off all four upper shock bolts in unibody! I hit them with wd first, then tightened them to break the seal, then tried to take them off and all four ended up snapping off. Anyone else have this experience? Obviously I need to drill them out. I just dont want to get into screwing this whole lift up cuz of the stupid shocks and stupid 1/2 inch bolts that should have been a different design anyway. THanks in advance, this is my only source of transportation right now and i have to have it fixed today!:mad:
Click to expand...

the same thing happened to me when i installed my first lift. i opted to make some bar pin eliminators rather than retapping. its alot easier to just weld some on rather than retapping into thin sheet metal IMHO. this also prevents that annoying clunk in the rear. and in your case will help with shock length issues till you can get some new shocks.
 
Where in Cincy are you? I had to go through the cargo area on my 88 and my buddies 00. It sucks but is the easiest fix IMHO. How far along have you gotten. If you need a hand or a new set of eyes shoot me an email [email protected] maybe I can help. Good luck

WILDHORSE
 
I run the rear hose from a 96 Dakota 4x4. It was about 8" longer than stock, and has the same size fittings.
 
if you haven't already,take your rear swaybar out,and use the swaybar brackets that are mounted to your spring plate and use them as bar pin eliminators,works GREAT.NAXJA member#579
 
afjeep2082 said:
one word EZ-OUT......ok that's two but tied with a dash thingy :)
Click to expand...

Two words: EZ-OUTs SUCK

Maybe I'm a klutz, but those suckers are brittle. Anytime I've tried them, they've caused more problems that they could ever fix.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
RE CONTROL ARM DROP BRACKETS?
Replies
8
Views
1K
EastonTexas
E
T
Wheelbase adjustment issue
2
Replies
24
Views
420
RCP Phx
R
X
My brakes are crap
Replies
12
Views
3K
xjklmnop69
X
T
1 Ton steering clearance issues
Replies
9
Views
847
XJChang
X
macgyvr
I always wanted a 40x60 pole building…
Replies
15
Views
184
macgyvr
macgyvr
Back
Top