Modified stock gas tank skid?

[GI-John]

Just wondering if anyone has successfully modified their stock gas tank skid.
I found one at a boneyard for 5.00 and was thinking about ways to strengthen it.

Any Ideas?


Thanks,

John

[ChuckD]

http://home.attbi.com/~cdutke/GS/DSCF0109.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~cdutke/GS/DSCF0108.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~cdutke/GS/DSCF0107.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~cdutke/GS/DSCF0066.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~cdutke/GS/DSCF0065.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~cdutke/GS/DSCF0064.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~cdutke/GS/DSCF0063.JPG

I used 2x2x1/8 angle for the front and rear bracing and 3/4 x 1/8 angle on the 4 other lenghts. Just added form to the sheet metal. I knew I needed it after seeing the center of it get dented in on the first rock it hit, Now I can jump up and down on it and it don't move at all. I'll be adding some more bracing to where it mates to the frame rails.

Thanks goes to Neil, for lending me his welder, my HF special is a POS. :D

[GI-John]

Probably a dumb question, but are the fuel tank straps supposed to be on the skid, or the tank? On my skid I left the tank alone and bolted the skid up w/ the hitch.

I' thought that the tank would be free to move around w/o being held secure by the straps.


Please correct me if I'm being dumb.

John

[ChuckD]

When I first put it on, I used the straps over the tank with some self-tapping screws.

I think the best way is the straps on the tank, the skid mount with the nutstrips on the frame rail.

[Eagle]

Straps hold the tank, nut strips in the frame hold the skid.

I haven't done it, but I'm working on an XJ that has a factory skid which after sandblasting had some very thin patches. Lowe's sells 16-gage patch panels in 6" and 8" wide strips, and it looked to me like the 6" width is perfect for laminating onto the two outer sections, and the 8" (or maybe wider if they have it) would be perfect for laminating over the center section.

The stock material seems to be about 14-gauge. I think with another sheet of 16-gauge held on with a continuous perimeter weld it should be fairly sturdy, yet the 16-gauge is flexible enough that after tacking one end I think you can bend it to conform to the profile of the skid.

I'd do a continuos weld just to seal it so you won't get water, sand and much between the two layers where it can start rusting it away.

[ChuckD]

I had some 1/8" x 6 strip, and thought about using it. I found that the angle made the skid more ridgid, the extra platting would only help with acual punctures.

[ZPD]

Hey Chuck, could you post a few more pics. I didn't quite get it in the first 7
:laugh2: Sorry couldn't resist ;)