rusty floors, milky brake fluid...

well, i took off my carpet on the xj and i found a large amount of rust on the rear passenger side floor. the rust were bad and it almost as big as around 12"x16". it also direct on top of the muffler. there's a few more rust
on the rear hatch frame.
how to fix rust on the floor and the frame? is it worth saving the xj or junk it?

when i open the xj brake reservor, the fluid in it look milky, look like there's mud in it. why?
i drain the fluid and bleed the brake a few time, all hte way around(w/o engine on/key turn) and when i bleed them, they seem to be firm. when i drove the xj down the street, i hit the brake pedal to the floor/pedal feel squeechy and it got no brake, air inline?

where can i get the brake part component for the ford 8.8? i need the emergency brake parts. what about the emergency brake cables beside MORE?


thanks

here is some ideas on the rust..

www.wetpaintfilms.com/heep2jeep

that's what i did for the rust...
good luck..

Any more pictures of the female using the powertools? :wierd:

-Scott

Brake fluid, like all other fluids, really wants to be changed periodically...

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it has an affinity for moisture (and will actually puck up moisture from the air around it) and slowly picks up crud for normal seal erosion and the like. Thus, it should be changed every two years to keep the system fresh and working well.

The best way to change brake fluid is with a pressure bleeder. The second best is with a vacuum bleeder - and the vacuum bleeder is easier to find. Here's how I do it with the vacuum kit...

1) Pull nearly all the fluid out of the master cylinder compartments and clean, using brake fluid cleaner and clean shop rags. Get as much of teh crud and junk out as you can.
2) Top off the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Have a helper watch the fluid level while you do the rest of this...

3) In the same pattern as bleeding your brakes (RR/LR/RF/LF,) use your vacuum bleed kit to pull brake fluid out of each line until it comes out clear. This will purge all the fluid in the lines and the cylinders. It's not a bad idea to have your helper SLOWLY pump the brake pedal once or twice after the fluid forst comes clear to help free up anyting else ugly in the lines. IIRC, the bleeder screws are all either 3/8" (Older XJs) or 10mm (newer XJs) and I was able to use 5/16"ID hose to connect vacuum to the nipples on everything.

If you have a manual, do the same thing with your clutch hydraulics.

NOTE - When you do this job, GO BUY A NEW quart bottle of brake fluid. Whenever you change brake fluid, you should be breaking the factory seal on the new fluid (due to its hygroscopic nature - if it's been sitting, you don't know what you're going to be filling your system with...)

This is about a two-beer job, including the clutch.

5-90