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Changing gear oil

tcm glx

NAXJA Member #1033
Well i need to change my gear oil this weekend, is there anythig that I am missing:
I know I need 3.1 qts of oil (Chrysler 8.25) 75w140
I have to open the cover, with the two bolts in , and drain oil first, and the seal back up and thorugh the oil hole, fill it back up to the top of that oil drain hole......am I missing anything??
 
tcm glx said:
Well i need to change my gear oil this weekend, is there anythig that I am missing:
I know I need 3.1 qts of oil (Chrysler 8.25) 75w140
I have to open the cover, with the two bolts in , and drain oil first, and the seal back up and thorugh the oil hole, fill it back up to the top of that oil drain hole......am I missing anything??

Scrape the old RTV off.

edit: corrected spelling
 
Might want to take the cover completely off and check the side gears for wear and look for metal filings and check the seals and bearings. then rtv it and fill it back up..
 
My biggest problem is once the RTV has set a little, I have problems lining up the holes in the diff cover with the threaded holes in the pumpkin. I eventually line them up, but not without sort of smearing the RTV around.

What I found useful is to find 2 bolts a little longer than the diff cover bolts. Cut the heads off (to make studs) and thread them loosely into the pumpkin; one on top, the other on the bottom. I then slide the cover with the RTV over the studs, and the remaining holes line up perfectly. Once I get the rest of the bolts on, I remove the studs and replace the orginals bolts back in their place.

Ivan
 
Sure you wanna use 75/140? Winter is commin and 75/85 would be better I would think IMO. I dont even use that in my trucks and we a bit of towing. Also you need to clean out the gunk that gathers on the bottom of the diff. brakeclean will work and some CLEAN rags.
 
tcm glx said:
am I missing anything??
I like to put my axle on jackstands so that the tires are of the ground and then put it in neutral and turn the wheels so that I get to examine the R&P for any strangeness (make sure to block off the wheels on the axle that's on teh ground)
also if you're filling up with the oil, wether it is 75/90 or 85/140 (actually especially if it is 85/140) leave the bottles out in the sun a bit to get it to flow better.
 
Kejtar said:
I like to put my axle on jackstands so that the tires are of the ground and then put it in neutral and turn the wheels so that I get to examine the R&P for any strangeness (make sure to block off the wheels on the axle that's on teh ground)
also if you're filling up with the oil, wether it is 75/90 or 85/140 (actually especially if it is 85/140) leave the bottles out in the sun a bit to get it to flow better.


THATS FUNNY!! You were in Jiify Lube the other day Remi. Cmon. Be honest! ;)
 
red91inWA said:
THATS FUNNY!! You were in Jiify Lube the other day Remi. Cmon. Be honest! ;)
?? the turning of the wheels to examine the R&P or warming up the oil? If the latter, have you ever tried to get 85/140 through that little pump that you aattach to the bottle? I couldn't feel my hands halfway through the process..... next time around I had the bottles standing in front of the jeep out in the sun as I was working on it and it made a world of difference!
 
What about if your jeep is lifted? It affects the amount of oil the dif will hold before it comes out the hole.

Will putting the rear up on jack stand raise the rear enough to make this up?

I have a 6.5 inch lift and want to make sure I get enough oil in to the rear.
 
Actually, the lift has relatively little to do with it. The shim under the leaf pack is what has the direct effect (and by extension, whether or not you have an SYE.)

I've got a 6" lift with 6 degree (IIRC) shims over a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. No problems getting enough oil into it without playing games.

I'd also suggest running synthetics if you're running an open or a locker. LSD? The stock TracLoc will take synthetic. Auburn Gear very specifically recommends dino juice in theirs. Check with the LSD manufacturer for others. And with an LSD, don't forget the friction modifier.
 
Ivan said:
My biggest problem is once the RTV has set a little, I have problems lining up the holes in the diff cover with the threaded holes in the pumpkin. I eventually line them up, but not without sort of smearing the RTV around.

What I found useful is to find 2 bolts a little longer than the diff cover bolts. Cut the heads off (to make studs) and thread them loosely into the pumpkin; one on top, the other on the bottom. I then slide the cover with the RTV over the studs, and the remaining holes line up perfectly. Once I get the rest of the bolts on, I remove the studs and replace the orginals bolts back in their place.

Ivan

Getting a little complicated here maybe? Geez, it's just a diff fluid change.
 
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