This weekend while ridding, I managed to spit out a lift block. It sheared the center pin on it and the leafspring center bolt. I called rockkrawlers, and they said to just drill out the pin and put a bolt in it. I just was wondering if any one else has done this, and how it will hold up after some use. Thanks for the ideas, and thoughts!
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lift block question
- Thread starter junkxj
- Start date
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
nature's way of telling you to upgrade to full leaf packs...
blocks are scarry, you probably had a severe case of axle wrap...
how big are your blocks?
blocks are scarry, you probably had a severe case of axle wrap...
how big are your blocks?
- Location
- Terra Firma
You can buy new centering pins at local spring shops or any NAPA parts stores. Don't mess around with trying to make a garden variety bolt do a specialized job.
And lose the blocks. They're a recipe for disaster. You just had the first course.
And lose the blocks. They're a recipe for disaster. You just had the first course.
Re: lift block questio
Like everyone said lose the blocks they suck.......Make sure you get new center pins I went the route of making a center pin out of a 3/8 bolt just grinded the head round etc.... Well I had to do it twice and get center pins from a spring shop, cause napa here in NJ did not carry center pins. Anyway if you can afford it go full packs and ditch the blocks they suck for wheeling...
Like everyone said lose the blocks they suck.......Make sure you get new center pins I went the route of making a center pin out of a 3/8 bolt just grinded the head round etc.... Well I had to do it twice and get center pins from a spring shop, cause napa here in NJ did not carry center pins. Anyway if you can afford it go full packs and ditch the blocks they suck for wheeling...
I would like to lose the blocks, but that is what my kit came with. 6 inch springs with 2 inch blocks. I would lose the blocks for some degree shims, but with masive triming the tires still rub the fenders enough to sound like a damn plane wreck. My setup works realy well, (except the current problem) so I am kind of hesitant to change it very much. I think the problem is the u-bolts loosened over time. My fault for not keeping them tight. Even though most people would expect lots of axle wrap with the blocks, it is amazingly nonexsistante. By the way, who makes full 8 inch springs (skycraper dosn't count)? Thanks so much for the input.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
also there are some axle wrap solutions that you may look into to prevent this again... maybe add a track bar off a yj or something...
Lawn Cher'
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westampton, NJ
Track bars locate the axle laterally... how would this prevent axle wrap in the longitudinal direction?
What size tires are you running. What lift kit came with blocks?? I would get the bigoffroad 8 inch leafs heard good things about them. I have the RE 5.5 and can fit 35's with a little trimming its all about bumpstops, I also use a 4 degree shim. I dont know I'm just not a fan off blocks. Plus ubolts get loose after a while you do have to keep up on them. But if you dont axle wrap and you like the blocks swap out the center pin keep um tight and run them good luck dude.
- Location
- Terra Firma
I don't mean to pile on, but I kind of have to point out that this statement doesn't work for me. Having just posted that your blocks self-destructed, I don't understand how that translates into "My setup works realy (sic) well." It obviously did NOT work really well.junkxj said:
Sort of reminds me of 20 years ago when a major bridge on I-95 in Connecticut collapsed into the river, killing several people and screwing traffic between NY and Boston for about three years. The governor of Connecticut was interviewed on a TV news shot from the scene, in which he said "This bridge was safe until 3:35 this morning, then it fell down."
Uh huh.
GottaBeJeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
junkxj said:
I don't know what size tires you are running, but with 8" of lift and massive trimming and still rubbing, I would have to guess you either have stock bumpstops or you are running bigger than 39" tires. I have 6.5" of lift (RE 5.5" kit) and 37" MT/R's on 15x8" rims with 3.25" Backspacing, without rubbing. You need to bumpstop. Very commonly overlooked, and instead of cheap bumpstops, people keep spending more money on more lift (or cheap unsafe lift options) and still can't figure out why their tires still rub even after massive trimming. Leave the blocks out, keep your 6" of lift, and bumpstop. :soapbox:
CW
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Um, put some 2" lift shackles on and call it good.
Thanks for all the input guys. I am running the RK 8 Inch kit. The rear springs have sagged alot. I also am in the process of fabbing some bumpstops, that is why I have tire rub. I am trying to get them perfect so they don't limit up travel any more than nessacary.I also have drop shakles that add 1 inches of lift. I know this sounds like WAY too much lift, but after the springs have sagged it sits lower than my friends zj with RK 6.5 inch kit. The rear fenders are cut as far as they can be without getting into the doors.The reason I say I like the setup is the flex and ride are good.There is a little spring wrap, but not very bad. I know I should get full springs, but with the bumpstops on the way, it will work for now. I know this is not ideal, but thats what I have for now. By the way I drilled out the block, and put in a new bolt to replace the center pin. This is what RK suggested to me when I called and asked about a replacment block. Please don't think I am a dumb a**, I KNOW this setup is not ideal.
sportsguy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nova Scotia, Canada
Great response man - many folks take a kicking for something and disappear.junkxj said:
I for one, used blocks for 2 years without a single problem - nowhere near that height mind you (I was at 4"), but again, no problem. Maybe it has something to do with the style of driving off-road, I don't know - I go pretty easy on my trucks, so I never seem to have these problems.
I know people it's happened to...even one guy who was running full packs + a block (because what he wanted didn't exist).
If your system works for you, and it's leagl and safe, then stick with it. It's way too easy for any of us in here to built something perfectly with other people's money. (And for the record, I'm not bashing anyone elses posts here, just a stating a fact as I see it.)
I will state, though, that full packs ARE preferable to blocks, but I think blocks are a completely reasonable alternative.
To restate what I was trying to say earlier. I know blocks are not the best thing, but that is what I have. If money wasn't a problem I would for sure go with full springs. The problem I had with the block was caused by the ubolts being lose( I did tighten them recently, not recently enough I guess). As for the replys about the hight and how I could have fender rubbing, I can not loose the blocks, with out them I would have maybe 2 inches of uptravel untill the tires are into whats left of the fenders and door.Like I said before the fenders are cut as far as possiable while still being able to use the doors. I do think this will work fine with the bumpstops I am making right know. Thanks again for the input. To restate one more time, I KNOW blocks are not the best solution for lift hight, just what I have right now.
