Hey Jes, you building a front 44?

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I was researching some tech and see the last few pics in your foto page show a front HP 44 getting cut down. Just wondering if that is a project for your rig? Jeff

[Jes]

Yep. '73 HP D44 shortened to use '80-83 Wagoneer inners.
http://www.fototime.com/{9FB626AE-FB84-4E99-9C56-B943F2936EE8}/picture.JPG
It's going to get an OX locker, 5.13s, hi steer, WARNs or Superiors, and OX joints. Still gotta get the axle shafts, knuckles, hubs, brakes, and hi steer arms. Have just about everything else right now though.

[Economos]

Nice work sir.

[XJJPR]

It's going to get an OX locker, 5.13s, hi steer, WARNs or Superiors, and OX joints. Still gotta get the axle shafts, knuckles, hubs, brakes, and hi steer arms


:puke:
:puke:
:puke:

:D

hinkley

[BrettM]

what are you gonna do for links?

[XJJPR]

what are you gonna do for links?

He told me he wanted some of those special ones from Tractor Supply!


hinkley

[BajaXJ92]

5.13s? Are 35s a prospect?

[BrettM]

He told me he wanted some of those special ones from Tractor Supply!


hinkley
I figured he'd do leafs :D

[Jes]

:puke:
:puke:
:puke:

:D

hinkley

I don't know what I was thinking because all that stuff has been proven that it doesn't work. :D

what are you gonna do for links?

I'm gonna make ones that won't bend. ;)

5.13s? Are 35s a prospect?

Yep, because my current 4.56s won't be low enough.

[hjeepxj]

Looks good, keep us posted!

What are you doing for brackets?

[Safari Ary]

Gonna try the OX joints to be different? or what? Have you heard about Longfield's new 300M joints? Check 'em out if you haven't.

Ary

[XJJPR]

What are you doing for brackets?

He's going to use some off a ugo!

hinkley

[hjeepxj]

He's going to use some off a ugo!

hinkley


Figures.

Damn kommifornians...:D :wave: :laugh3:

[Jes]

Gonna try the OX joints to be different? or what? Have you heard about Longfield's new 300M joints? Check 'em out if you haven't.

Ary

I went with the OX joints because they were cheap(comparatively).

He's going to use some off a ugo!


Mark, stop giving away my secrets!

[Gil BullyKatz]

Yep. '73 HP D44 shortened to use '80-83 Wagoneer inners.
http://www.fototime.com/{9FB626AE-FB84-4E99-9C56-B943F2936EE8}/picture.JPG
It's going to get an OX locker, 5.13s, hi steer, WARNs or Superiors, and OX joints. Still gotta get the axle shafts, knuckles, hubs, brakes, and hi steer arms. Have just about everything else right now though.

Very nice... Thinking about doing this myself... Given the different widths for HP44's, how did you determine how much to narrow?

l

[Safari Ary]

I went with the OX joints because they were cheap(comparatively).


Have you seen the breakages that have already occured? Not trying to hasta just curious, 'cause the "regular" longfield joints are only $80 and you know Matt broke a warn shaft with one and it looked unscathed.

[Jes]

Very nice... Thinking about doing this myself... Given the different widths for HP44's, how did you determine how much to narrow?



Find out the length of the inner axle shafts you want to run and subtract that measurement from the length of the stock inner axle shafts that are in the housing you want to narrow.

[Jes]

Have you seen the breakages that have already occured? Not trying to hasta just curious, 'cause the "regular" longfield joints are only $80 and you know Matt broke a warn shaft with one and it looked unscathed.

Did you read that on the internet somewhere?

[Economos]

To make it easy to find inners, you can always source out Waggy inners and go from there; plenty of spares for that application.

[Safari Ary]

Did you read that on the internet somewhere?

Yes, on Pirate, had pretty pictures with it too. Anyway, was just playing devil's advocate.

Ary

[BrettM]

I'm gonna make ones that won't bend. ;)





yes, but are you sticking with short-arms or doing something CRASH-esque? how much lift for those 35s?

[XJJPR]

Did you read that on the internet somewhere?


I think I LIVED that!


hinkley

[Lincoln]

I think Jes just felt left out because everyone was doing it. The OX's are an attempt to be unique.

[Beezil]

jes, once you put the 44 on your jeep, you will move to stage 9.

I heard that on the internet.

[Lincoln]

jes, once you put the 44 on your jeep, you will move to stage 9.

I heard that on the internet.

I thought the "44" stood for Stage 44, but only if the build involved chromo axles and fancy ugittenit joints?

The internet sucks, I read that in the ARB manual I stole.

[Jes]

jes, once you put the 44 on your jeep, you will move to stage 9.

I heard that on the internet.

Cool!

[CW]

I thought you could be at stage 10 with a d30 as long as you have a snorkel and 31's.

[Jes]

Since so many people were asking, here's an update.

Some stuff to cut off...
http://www.fototime.com/{E8EF2B0B-7FF5-4375-BEA5-00361E6019F7}/picture.JPG
...gained 3/8" after some cutoff wheel and Sawzall work...
http://www.fototime.com/{3D34ECA8-E000-4BFA-A250-6C74AE33FD53}/picture.JPG
Added some plate to fill the valley between the two ribs...
http://www.fototime.com/{04561F01-A329-4205-97E2-3797FA451A27}/picture.JPG
...made the bottom nice and flat.

...

[Jes]

Reinforcement at the front of the bridge...
http://www.fototime.com/{44AB4F9B-28CC-4D76-AB8F-49EF94DF6B16}/picture.JPG
Upper link mount...
http://www.fototime.com/{83F16CBB-DF1F-4DB3-9A8F-D67B9BE90C4F}/picture.JPG
Track bar mount...
http://www.fototime.com/{0F5A73A0-4AC7-4DB6-848E-A4A67A59359A}/picture.JPG
Back of track bar mount with coil bucket, lower link mount, and shock mount...
http://www.fototime.com/{0F42D989-2FAF-4860-BEAF-3592F31701ED}/picture.JPG
The coil buckets were made with old D30 pieces with .120 wall sides and a .188 wall front welded to it.

...

[Jes]

The completed axle housing...
http://www.fototime.com/{9C38069C-B892-4AA2-915B-AE879A3E45AC}/picture.JPG

[hjeepxj]

Looks damn nice! :cheers:

[Jes]

Next it was time for a crossmember to receive the other end of the links. First thing to do was add some reinforcement and as always some cutting and grinding was required...
http://www.fototime.com/{999FDB65-8461-4332-A709-7CA47457E23B}/picture.JPG
...then some 3X3X3/16" was welded in by CRASH...
http://www.fototime.com/{4EA94F3E-AF59-4104-9D71-72CCF4FD7736}/picture.JPG
I then drilled some 1" holes for the sleeves that would join the inner and outer "frame" reinforcements...
http://www.fototime.com/{CE9C6964-2CFA-4D0B-8BDF-5F4DCC64E4C4}/picture.JPG
The first piece of the crossmember...
http://www.fototime.com/{5CCD38BA-176F-417B-8A1A-F7A2742DEB10}/picture.JPG
...2X4X.25 notched and backfilled for the tranny and t-case.

...

[Jes]

All the pieces being test fitted and tacked to gether...
http://www.fototime.com/{1CB24C04-FF7C-451F-8105-220F62732D30}/picture.JPG
The stock crappy down pipe wouldn't work with the new crossmember so we made a new one with mad flowz...
http://www.fototime.com/{2251E5FB-7BA1-4CB5-BFB6-6184D037DAB7}/picture.JPG
Here's the crossmember installed...
http://www.fototime.com/{4558AF78-3582-4103-B7CE-A758A534E892}/picture.JPG
...the tranny mount was made with the end of a leaf spring, a shackle cut in half, and a piece I cut off the stock tranny mount.
Mocking up the suspension mounts...
http://www.fototime.com/{6A2C1130-391D-4E5D-97F4-E37202527D36}/picture.JPG

...

[shimmy]

just curious... how much does a project like this "on average" cost?

this is something i'd like to eventually do, once my rig is not a DD

brandon

[Jes]

The crossmember finnish welded and primed...
http://www.fototime.com/{F6F2387F-5AEE-4E76-80CD-56AA94BC52F5}/picture.JPG
The links...
http://www.fototime.com/{58520E3E-35B3-4ECA-A4D6-164FB9AE3F8A}/picture.JPG
...the upper is 1.75X.120 DOM and the lowers are 2X.25 cromoly.

...

[Jes]

The ugly and old. 1 degree of caster, bad steering angles, questionable brakes, worn out control arm bushings...
http://www.fototime.com/{E021AFA1-ADC9-4992-B980-DED35024E6CE}/picture.JPG
...and the new...
http://www.fototime.com/{8B71433A-7E37-4AB9-8111-A7A3C080DAEF}/picture.JPG
I went with PartsMike hi steer arms, Chevy flat top knuckles. 5.13 gears, OX locker, OX joints and Warn shafts.
Somemore pics of the finnished product...
http://www.fototime.com/{12BD2C3B-B91E-4459-BBDE-9CB58F3522F3}/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{E9088101-2C69-4A48-B633-B4EA923E0453}/picture.JPG

[Jes]

just curious... how much does a project like this "on average" cost?

this is something i'd like to eventually do, once my rig is not a DD

brandon

Don't know what "on average" this would cost.
This is my daily driver, so I didn't skimp on anything.

[XJZ]

Jes, that looks awesome, great job! Can't wait to hear the test results.

(What did you do to hinkley's bumper? :D )

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Couple questions...First, is that crossmember 2x6 or 2x4? It looks more like 2x4 to me, but maybe not. Second, is the top of the upper link mount on the crossmember bolted through the floor to a part of your cage? How about Crashes? Also, Crash used some tubing to build a skid frame/reinforcement assy extending behind the actual crossmember. Are you going to do something like that or is the crossmember you built good enough? I didn't get to it yet, but I am considering doing something similar to mine, but using a hoop over the double cardon joint welded to a 2x6 crossmember mounted similar to yours and then welding the upper control arm mount to the top of the hoop. Similar to the hoop going over the pumpkin. However, I wasn't planning to use a through bolt to any sort of internal cage. There isn't much room for a lot of bracing either, so I don't know if a 1/4" thick hoop would hold up? Mine uses an automatic tranny and I already redid the 4wd shifter to clear an upper arm sitting on top of the double cardan joint of the driveshaft. The only other thing in the way might be the shifter cable and bracket bolted to the bell housing. I haven't mocked it up compressed yet, but at rest it looks like things would clear. As I see it, the questionable part is the hoop over the driveshaft and it's ability to withstand the forces placed on it. Jeff

[Capt. Nemo]

I hate to break it to ya man, but those are some looooooong arms.

BUSTED! (I think I hear Goatman coming.)

I appreciate the clear pics of your bracketry. Doesn't look as difficult as I had thought originally. Good work keeping the LCA brackets behind the tube, rather than under. The shock mount was creative also. 35's or 37's?

[JeepFreak21]

Very nice Jes! It looks like you guys got the crossmember side of the lower link mounts spread out a bit more... is that because you didn't have that NV4500 to work around? Also, does that upper control arm bracket (axle side) just look REALLY close to the track bar bracket (frame side)?
Billy

[Big Red]

Did U move up to 35" mtrs from your 33" mtrs with your dana 30? Looks good Jes. I should be running on my hp44/9" shortly, but I'm keeping it full width and 4 link. I like the 3 link, does it perform very similar to a long arm setup that's U'd get for a TJ/XJ/ZJ with the long arm and the upper short arm coming off of the long arm? U got this done just in time for the Arizona trip, hope to get a report on how it does.
What rear axle are U running?
Troy

[Goatman]

I hate to break it to ya man, but those are some looooooong arms.

BUSTED! (I think I hear Goatman coming.)



Yep, here I am. :)

However, my beef with the typical long arm setup is how low the mounts hang. I've always said that a long arm can be designed without the mounts hanging below the frame, it's just not an easy thing to do. Most of the store bought long arm kits are junk, IMHO, and yes, I'm including the ever popular Clayton. This URF Racing design that CRASH and Jes are making is really nice.

It's looking very good Jes, you have to be feeling better now after all the work. I better make sure my front shocks are in good shape...........3 weeks. :D

:cheers:

[Mike L]

That axle looks frickin' sweet, man. :cheers:

-Mike

[BillR]

REALLY nice job! It makes mine look like a rookie did it. WAIT.. a rookie DID do mine! :laugh3:

[JnJ]

Very nice work Jes.

[Jes]

Couple questions...First, is that crossmember 2x6 or 2x4? It looks more like 2x4 to me, but maybe not. Second, is the top of the upper link mount on the crossmember bolted through the floor to a part of your cage? How about Crashes? Also, Crash used some tubing to build a skid frame/reinforcement assy extending behind the actual crossmember. Are you going to do something like that or is the crossmember you built good enough? I didn't get to it yet, but I am considering doing something similar to mine, but using a hoop over the double cardon joint welded to a 2x6 crossmember mounted similar to yours and then welding the upper control arm mount to the top of the hoop. Similar to the hoop going over the pumpkin. However, I wasn't planning to use a through bolt to any sort of internal cage. There isn't much room for a lot of bracing either, so I don't know if a 1/4" thick hoop would hold up? Jeff

Yes, the crossmember is 2X4 not 2X6(a typo). The top of the upper link mount will be bolted through the floor to a plate welded to the tranny tunnel. Is it necessary? I don't know but it can't hurt. Otherwise, the crossmember is done, there's plenty of separation between the 5/8" through bolts to spread the load. I also used the stock crossmember mounting bolts just for the hell of it.


It looks like you guys got the crossmember side of the lower link mounts spread out a bit more... is that because you didn't have that NV4500 to work around? Also, does that upper control arm bracket (axle side) just look REALLY close to the track bar bracket (frame side)?
Billy

Actually, I think mine are a little closer together since my axle is an inch wider and my links are 7 inches shorter. No, the upper link mount is not close to the track bar bracket. We actually had to modify the RE bracket to clear the tie rod on full compression/full steering lock.

[Jes]

Oh, and here's a shot of the rig...
http://www.fototime.com/{5B3AB985-2FF2-4C2F-AA97-E0277729A46F}/picture.JPG
...as CRASH's neighbor said "Bling on the bottom and ding on top". :D

[Mike L]

Oh, and here's a shot of the rig...
http://www.fototime.com/{5B3AB985-2FF2-4C2F-AA97-E0277729A46F}/picture.JPG
...as CRASH's neighbor said "Bling on the bottom and ding on top". :D

Looks like 7100's in the front, what about the back?

-Mike

[bgcntry72]

Envious.
:sunshine:

[BajaXJ92]

Badass.

[Porch Puppy]

Looks good Jes...see ya in 3weeks.

[CRASH]

It's really nice to work on Jes's junk, because he doesn't skimp on parts. I wasn't forced to work with 30 year old axleshafts and ball joints, everything was new.

We burned up a lot of welding wire on this project, not to mention a gaggle of cut-off wheels and SawzAll blades ( I think there are 25 seperate pieces of steel on the front axle brackets alone). I think we each have about 12 full days into the project to get it looking like the last photo!

To answer questions about the upper link mount, it is every bit as tight as with my NV4500. The Atlas complicates matters a bit, so in the end, we have 1/4" between the UCA mount and the tranny, and another 1/4" between the UCA mount and the driveshaft. Is it necessary to mount the UCA to the chassis on the top? Probably not for most, but with the increased popularity of high speed antics in WCGIC events, it seems like a good idea ot control torque loading and prevent cracking. The 2x4 box we use for a crossmember is 1/4" wall.

We cut it pretty close on finishing this thing before BOTW, but since the design is basically a carbon copy (suspension wise) of mine, I feel very comfortable about the lack of testing. Mine works superbly in the rocks and on the street. Jes drives his junk probably upwards of 20,000 miles a year, so it has to be very streetable. We both still need a swaybar, even with the 275/78 7100's. There is no resistance to twist in this suspension design, so cornering loads are the sole responsibilty of the springs.

CRASH

[Big Red]

Those look like 35's, did Jes move up to those from his 33's? I know since the 44 hangs down further in the front, 35's are nice to get the axles off the ground. With my hp44/9" I'm going with 37" mtrs and if that breaks stuff to often, I just got 5--65% 35" mtrs. Looks great. Everything has to be in great working order to do the trails U guys do and drive that rig 20K a year on the street. Very hard to get a dual purpose rig that built and do those trails and expect it do drive U to work the next day. Very nice. :)
Troy

[CRASH]

Those look like 35's, did Jes move up to those from his 33's? I know since the 44 hangs down further in the front, 35's are nice to get the axles off the ground. With my hp44/9" I'm going with 37" mtrs and if that breaks stuff to often, I just got 5--65% 35" mtrs. Looks great. Everything has to be in great working order to do the trails U guys do and drive that rig 20K a year on the street. Very hard to get a dual purpose rig that built and do those trails and expect it do drive U to work the next day. Very nice. :)
Troy

315/75R-16.

[Paul S]

Without a doubt, the cleanest 44 build to date :thumbup:

Where did you place your coils in relation to the axle? It looks like they're a little bit behind it.

Paul

[XJZ]

Without a doubt, the cleanest 44 build to date :thumbup:


Paul

No kidding, that thing will be the new NAXJA poster Jeep! :) It's all a work of art, very nice.

[XJJPR]

Jes,

How many coats of primer did you use?


hinkley

[Big Red]

No kidding, that thing will be the new NAXJA poster Jeep! :) It's all a work of art, very nice.

The ultimate dual purpose rig. Do JV trails and whatever hard stuff out there and drive back home and to work the next day. Cannot ask for more than that from 1 vehicle. Extremely hard to accomplish both and to a high degree.

Do U have any front pics with the tires in the shot to see how far the tires stick out? I see the closeup of the 44 compared to the 30, but this is close up and hard to see how wide the axle is. What the wms to wms of the axle, about 60"?

[CRASH]

61.754678"

[basalt51]

Daaaaaaamn Jes! You must be diein' to take that thing out! That is awesome. Your's is still pretty nice too CRASH.

So did you have to drive it home after mocking things up every weekend? That must have been alot of work.

[BajaXJ92]

61.754678"

are you his self-appointed cheerleader? ;)

[CRASH]

We've got to pimp the "kit", gotta recover costs somehow...... ;)

CRASH

[BrettM]

wow.

http://www.mondobirra.org/beer%20mug%202.jpg

[D70XJ]

Badass work man. Clean, solid, and functional.
:coldbeer:

[Goatman]

Looks great. Everything has to be in great working order to do the trails U guys do and drive that rig 20K a year on the street. Very hard to get a dual purpose rig that built and do those trails and expect it do drive U to work the next day. Very nice. :)
Troy

Another nice "REAL XJ".

Run the Hammers, race back to camp across the desert, and drive it home and to work on Monday. Nothing is more pleasing (or difficult) than having a rig that will do everything nicely.......to me, anyway.

:D

Real nice work guys.

[Goatman]

We cut it pretty close on finishing this thing before BOTW, but since the design is basically a carbon copy (suspension wise) of mine, I feel very comfortable about the lack of testing. Mine works superbly in the rocks and on the street. Jes drives his junk probably upwards of 20,000 miles a year, so it has to be very streetable. We both still need a swaybar, even with the 275/78 7100's. There is no resistance to twist in this suspension design, so cornering loads are the sole responsibilty of the springs.

CRASH


I REALLY like my 8" Skyjacker coils with one coil cut off.........just right, and with a little stiffer shock valving in the rear no sway bar is needed.

[BrettM]

Nothing is more pleasing (or difficult) than having a rig that will ...

or expensive ;)

[bj-666]

how much shipped to 02852 haha

it looks awsome my next mod or i may go nutz and build a 9/60 hybrid. and keep it HP with that new highnine company.

[Jes]

Some thoughts on it after driving it to work(round trip 60 miles) all week.
Needs a anti roll bar.
Spring rates are just a tad soft(running RE 4.5" ZJ coils in front and a 7 leaf bastard pack in the rear).
Maybe could use a steering damper. The bumpy hi-way driving gets a little annoying.
The 275/78 Bilsteins are awsome! Never had such good shocks, can't wait for the 7100s to go in the rear.
Having brakes that actually stop the rig without locking up the rear is nice.
Lockout hubs make the noise at hi-way speed much more tolerable and have made this thing so much smoother.
I thought with the lack of bushings the ride would be noisy and harsh. I was way wrong, this is the smoothest this thing has been since it was stock with 225/75R15s.
I'm really happy to have a rig that drives so nice. What a change.

[Jes]

Looks like 7100's in the front, what about the back?

-Mike

Don't have time to mount the 7100s in the back yet so I'm running some old Doesch Techs. It actually rides pretty good.

Where did you place your coils in relation to the axle? It looks like they're a little bit behind it.

Paul

They're pretty much centered above the axle tube.

Jes,

How many coats of primer did you use?


hinkley

One.

[bgcntry72]

are you his self-appointed cheerleader? ;)
Are you this guy?
http://overtorqued.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1458
Curious in WI.

[JeepFreak21]

Hey Jes, do you have any pics (from inside the Jeep) that give us a better idea of where the top of the chassis side, upper link mount ends up?
Thanks,
Billy

[Jes]

Hey Jes, do you have any pics (from inside the Jeep) that give us a better idea of where the top of the chassis side, upper link mount ends up?
Thanks,
Billy

No pics, haven't even drilled the hole yet, but it ends up about 2"s forward of the stock T-case shifter hole.

[JeepFreak21]

No pics, haven't even drilled the hole yet, but it ends up about 2"s forward of the stock T-case shifter hole.

That works :)
Billy

[FarmerMatt]

Jes,
You're my hero. When I grow up I want to be just like you... I love you man.

Matt

[axlegod83]

i like your idea on that hp44. i was wondering were i could find one of those things. and what moda are neede to make it fit under an xj besides the obvious.
ps. i just got sent back to iraq so i'm trying to find as much info or build ups as i can

[JeepFreak21]

what moda are neede to make it fit under an xj besides the obvious.

Did you read the rest of the thread? There's good info here and in several dozen other threads that should answer most of your questions.
Billy

PS - Thanks for your service :patriot:

[jkgaddis]

hey whats up man,
im in el cerrito. ive got a d44 i need to narrow. i was wondering what you cut your's down to so you could use the waggy inners. any other advice would be awesome. this is my first rig and first major project.

[BrettM]

hey whats up man,
im in el cerrito. ive got a d44 i need to narrow. i was wondering what you cut your's down to so you could use the waggy inners. any other advice would be awesome. this is my first rig and first major project.
put your old (F150) shafts next to your new (Waggy) shafts and measure the difference, narrow it by that amount.

[Goatman]

When I did mine, I just went to the Warn website and got the lengths of F150 axles and Waggy axles, took the difference and that's how much I shortened each side.

[gearwhine]

When I did mine, I just went to the Warn website and got the lengths of F150 axles and Waggy axles, took the difference and that's how much I shortened each side.

Warns webpage has been around long enough to fix all errors, but I would still call them to make sure there are no mistakes. Just an extra sense of security.

[cracker]

Warns webpage has been around long enough to fix all errors, but I would still call them to make sure there are no mistakes. Just an extra sense of security.


Actually I had found a mistake and had them correct it about 5 months ago :D

[Appalachianxj]

Nice job. Like the shave job.

how is the inverted T hi steer treating you. Why not run a true crossover hi steer ? Where you running into problems with the coil/ tracbar mount?

[Jes]

I don't see a way to fit crossover hi-streer and still get full turning without the tie rod hitting the spring. It would be tricky to make it fit.
The inverted T steering works fine, no issues at all. The tie rod ends are pretty worn now though, 20,000+ hard miles on the front end so far.

[Goatman]

how is the inverted T hi steer treating you. Why not run a true crossover hi steer ? Where you running into problems with the coil/ tracbar mount?

The idea is to get the steering as high as possible, so running a crossover with the drag link on top and the tie rod below the steering arm looses about 3" of ground clearance. I also run inverted T on top of the arms.

[tkm]

That is some awsome work. I hope its okay if I copy you a little bit. if so could you tell me where you got the thread part you weld into the cromo link end

http://www.fototime.com/{6F1B2B0E-EB76-404F-A78E-56358C7734FC}/picture.JPG

did you just weld a threaded insert to the end of this RE joint? or did you tap a peice of cromo?

http://www.fototime.com/{EACE602E-C187-484B-BBFB-65D720F46551}/picture.JPG

[Jes]

The threaded end is called a SPUD. It's a chunk of 1.75" steel turned down to 1.5" on one end and on the other end it's 1.25" theaded rod.
I got them from www.polyperformance.com
The other pieces are Rubicon Express stuff that I got from www.performanceoffroadcenter.com
Later I found that you can buy the large RE Super flex joint housings with a threaded end already welded on. In the future I would go that route, saves a little welding.

[tkm]

Thanks for the info. I checked on polyperformance web site I browsed then did a serch for spud and 0 matched found so I gues they dont cary them any more. To bad, I liked the way your links look with the female end on the joint. it looks stronger than just welding a grade 8 bolt to the joint. Ill look into the ones with the studs.

[Goatman]

Thanks for the info. I checked on polyperformance web site I browsed then did a serch for spud and 0 matched found so I gues they dont cary them any more. To bad, I liked the way your links look with the female end on the joint. it looks stronger than just welding a grade 8 bolt to the joint. Ill look into the ones with the studs.

They have a phone number...

:)

[tkm]

I gues I could call them huh. :D

[Mike L]

I gues I could call them huh. :D

I would call them but look HERE (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=349&cat=98&page=1) as well. :wave:

-Mike

[Lincoln]

I would call them but look HERE (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=349&cat=98&page=1) as well. :wave:

-Mike

Wrong direction ding ding. Definately needs to call though. The spuds never were on the website.

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

When I built my front hidden long arm 3 link, I went through dc4wd.com and got two externally threaded Rubicon Express spuds (came with the jam nuts) for $26 each and two Rubicon Express internally threaded tubes that came with the ends coped to fit the RE 3792 joints for $9 each. This was less than a year ago. I also purchased four of the RE 3792 joints for $27 each through them. If the RE joints with the internally threaded spuds already welded on are available, I would probably go that route too. I've found www.dc4wd.com to have a low price and good service on quite a few things. Jeff

[tkm]

Lots of good info, One last question what size 3x3 did you use for the mounts? I found two threads one said to use 3x3x3/16th and the other said 1/4. for the large re joints.

[Jes]

Lots of good info, One last question what size 3x3 did you use for the mounts? I found two threads one said to use 3x3x3/16th and the other said 1/4. for the large re joints.

3"X3"X.188" is what you want.

[tkm]

cool. thanks