Moab may wait...MASSISVE T-CASE PROBLEMS...HELP!

I installed a 2-low kit and an SYE in the Jeep over the past week or so. When I installed the 2-low kit, I could not remove the front output shaft, but was still able to get everything out and in correctly. It didnt appear that anything went back together the wrong way.

The t-case shifts, kinda hard now, but nothing problematic, but there is majorly wrong with the t-case now.

1. Whenever in drive or reverse, the t-case makes a really loud noise, like the chain is doing something bad. It didnt look stretched when I pulled the case apart and I dont think I stretched it when I re-installed it.

2. For all those that read my questions on rotational slop in the driveline, and you told me it was CAs, you are wrong. As I said, there was slack in the front DS, and now when I put it into D or R when in 4wd, there is a HUGE noise from the slack being taken up.

3. Everything shifts fine, but when I try and put it back into P, it grinds and then goes into park.

Basically, something is really fcuked up in there and I need to know how to fix it. As I said, it *looked fine when I put it back together and there werent any extra parts. So I dont know what is going on.

PLEASE HELP ME! I need my transportation and would like to go to Moab.

Thanks

Fergie

PS- I remembered that when I was tightening the front DS u joints straps, a random nut fell off from somewhere. I did a rahter tedious inspection and couldnt find where it cam from.

You R and R the chain without removing the front output?????? HOW?????

Is it in or out of the jeep? Open it up and take pictures.

I always sujest removing the whole tcase from the jeep to do this because it can be a pia putting junk back together while junk is trying to fall out of place. On the bench you can position it better to putt it back together.

If you have pictures post them.

hinkley

i agree with hinkley, it's not much extra work to pull the case, and it makes it a tad easier to work on.

1. Whenever in drive or reverse, the t-case makes a really loud noise, like the chain is doing something bad. It didnt look stretched when I pulled the case apart and I dont think I stretched it when I re-installed it.
Don't know without hearing it...

2. For all those that read my questions on rotational slop in the driveline, and you told me it was CAs, you are wrong. As I said, there was slack in the front DS, and now when I put it into D or R when in 4wd, there is a HUGE noise from the slack being taken up.
I have some backlash and rotational slop in mine also, and it's more noticeable in 4WD. It's due to the inherant slop and backlash in the lockers, at least mine is.

3. Everything shifts fine, but when I try and put it back into P, it grinds and then goes into park.
If it grinds at a stop while shifting into Park, that's not a t-case problem. That sounds more like a tranny issue. Nothing in the t-case should be moving when you're stopped, so noise when shifting into Park at a dead stop is coming from somewhere else.

Mark Hinkley said:

You R and R the chain without removing the front output?????? HOW?????

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You know how you can oull the rear output shaft out a bit before the chain stops it? Well, you rotate the front yoke and the chain wlkas itself off. Put it back in the same way.

Is it in or out of the jeep? Open it up and take pictures.

I always sujest removing the whole tcase from the jeep to do this because it can be a pia putting junk back together while junk is trying to fall out of place. On the bench you can position it better to putt it back together.

If you have pictures post them.

hinkley

Click to expand...

I dont have pictures, but what I may do is drop the case and tear it apart again.

The noise sounds like the chain is hitting the case so I may have stretched the chain using my method. What would cause the grinding issues then?

Fergie

BillR said:

1. Whenever in drive or reverse, the t-case makes a really loud noise, like the chain is doing something bad. It didnt look stretched when I pulled the case apart and I dont think I stretched it when I re-installed it.
Don't know without hearing it...

Click to expand...

It sounds like the chain on the inside of the case...I think.

COLOR=Red]2. For all those that read my questions on rotational slop in the driveline, and you told me it was CAs, you are wrong. As I said, there was slack in the front DS, and now when I put it into D or R when in 4wd, there is a HUGE noise from the slack being taken up.[/COLOR]
I have some backlash and rotational slop in mine also, and it's more noticeable in 4WD. It's due to the inherant slop and backlash in the lockers, at least mine is.

Click to expand...

There is some slop in the fron diff, but it seems that a lot of it is coming from the t-case.

3. Everything shifts fine, but when I try and put it back into P, it grinds and then goes into park.
If it grinds at a stop while shifting into Park, that's not a t-case problem. That sounds more like a tranny issue. Nothing in the t-case should be moving when you're stopped, so noise when shifting into Park at a dead stop is coming from somewhere else.

Click to expand...

[/quote]

To clarify. When I have had the t-case in either D or R, and I try to put it back into P, that is when it makes thr gringind sound. it only makes it for a bit, and then it goes away.

Keep the help/suggestions coming. I sure need it.

Thanks

Fergie

Fergie said:

To clarify. When I have had the t-case in either D or R, and I try to put it back into P, that is when it makes thr gringind sound. it only makes it for a bit, and then it goes away.

Keep the help/suggestions coming. I sure need it.

Thanks

Fergie

Click to expand...

Now you really lost me...
When you put the TRANSFER CASE in Drive or Reverse or Park?
T-case should be 2HI, 4HI, N, 4LOW, 2LOW

If the noise is really comming from the tcase, the most likely culprit is the chain. They can walk up on the side links of the chain when they get stretched out. When you pull it apart, check the side links to see if they show any telltale markings. I've also seen it where the gearset didn't get put on with the shifter forks aligned correctly.

Also an answer to your previous question on the seal. You should use the hardening sealer to put in the seal, allow it to dry an hour or so before you put in the ATF. The seal should need to be tapped into the tailcone housing slightly.

Fergie said:

The noise sounds like the chain is hitting the case so I may have stretched the chain using my method. What would cause the grinding issues then?

Fergie

Click to expand...

You can't stretch it like that, if you could the first time it went into 4wd it would explode.

Unless you used a pry bar and lots of force to get that chain around.

If you pull it again, first put in 4wd and loosen the front yoke nut, then remove the case.

hinkley

The grinding noise is from the transmission. I don't know a s-load about the AW4, but I talked to a my local 4x4 guy, and he said the shaft always spins, and it will grind as you put it into P when it is allowed to spin. Like when it isn't hooking up with the transfer case, properly. The grinding is the parking pin bouncing into position. I am having this symptom, too, but I haven't had time to mess with it, lately. Mine is almost impossible to shift, unless you are laying under the Jeep. I got it into 2WD, and have left it there. I may mess with it next weekend.

Okay, I didnt mess with the tranny at all, so I am pretty dang sure the t-case is the PITA right now.

BillR- Sorry man, wasnt thinking when I typed. Any time I have had the Transmission in D or R(doesnt matter which gear the t-case is in), when I go to put it back into P, it grinds for a few seconds, like things are trying to syncronize, and then it stops grinding.

Mark- How do I break the nut on the yoke? I had a pipe wrench on the yoke, and a breaker bar and socket on the nut, and it didnt budge. Something like PB or what is in order I think. It isnt reverse threads is it?

Old_man- the case will shift through 2h-4h-N-4l-2l fine. It does it a bit difficult though, so I havbe no clue what to look for.

As for the seal, the brown stuff looked oramge when it came out, but that may be my color blindness. I could press the seal in by hand with the hardener on it. It doesnt sit quite flush with the edge, so should it?

Thanks for the help guys.

Fergie

cherokee89 said:

The grinding noise is from the transmission. I don't know a s-load about the AW4, but I talked to a my local 4x4 guy, and he said the shaft always spins, and it will grind as you put it into P when it is allowed to spin. Like when it isn't hooking up with the transfer case, properly. The grinding is the parking pin bouncing into position. I am having this symptom, too, but I haven't had time to mess with it, lately. Mine is almost impossible to shift, unless you are laying under the Jeep. I got it into 2WD, and have left it there. I may mess with it next weekend.

Click to expand...

Actually, that makes sense. If there's something really wrong in the t-case and the input is spinning with the tranny instead of being coupled to the axles, that would cause the symptom. The grinding is coming from the tranny, but the problem's still in the 231! It sounds like the mainshaft's possibly not seated all the way into the input gear on the planetaries. Sound logical?

The gears not being properly seated is what I am thinking the poblem is. I dont have time to mess with it this week so Moab is looking like a bust.

I'll talk to you tomorrow Bill.

Fergie

Fergie said:

Mark- How do I break the nut on the yoke? I had a pipe wrench on the yoke, and a breaker bar and socket on the nut, and it didnt budge. Something like PB or what is in order I think. It isnt reverse threads is it?

Thanks for the help guys.

Fergie

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Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

Got air tools. Even if it drivable to a shop, have them loosen it and then put it on snug for the drivr home. Just have the shaft off ready for them.


hinkley

Mark Hinkley said:

Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

Got air tools. Even if it drivable to a shop, have them loosen it and then put it on snug for the drivr home. Just have the shaft off ready for them.


hinkley

Click to expand...

I always remember it as "clock to lock."

I'll see how driveable it is and then see if the transpo shop at work can help me out. I know thye have a full assortment of tools in there, and most of the mechs are cool.

I didnt think it would take as much force to get it off. The factory torque spec is only like 110 ft-lbs. I'll hit it with some PB and then try the air tools.

Fergie

BAck up top for the weekly crew.

Fergie