Water pump?

How can i tell if my waterpump is working corectly or if it is ready to drop?
My jeep keeps running warm, ( the needle is past the 0 in 210), it is a 90 6cyl auto that has been converted recently to an open system with a new radiator,hoses,and heater valve. It usually does this when it is idoling so i checked the fan clutch, it seems good so the only thing left is the water pump, or am i overlooking something?
Thanx Digger

There no reliable test for the fan clutch. Just replace it especially if it over 5 years old. Once you do that then see how it operates. Remove the fan clutch and take it to the parts store to make sure you get a clutch of the same size. Some aftermarket "universal" assemblies are much taller than the stock clutch. I would have needed to tilt the radiator forward to get the new clutch in.

Replace the clutch, then worry about the water pump. Also you may want to install a new thermostat and a new "radiator" cap since the extra temperature may have damaged the components. So my modified advice is new fan clutch, mopar thermostat and a pressure cap.

Thanx Martin i thought about that but hate to throew $50.00 out the window if the fan clutch is not the problem.

Yes, on my 88 XJ I had my hand over the AC compressor after I replaced the fan clutch. I pulled back my handsince I felt the breeze of the new fan clutch. That told me I did not have a strong breeze before or else I would of known it.

Also install a new radiator cap and thermostat. My radiator shop in st louis told me a thermostat at 225F one time can do perminate damage. I replaced my thermostat and my temps went back down to normal. So spend the extra for a mopar themostat and radiator cap and your problem should be solved.

I did replace the cap and tstate when i replaced the radiator. I bought a dealer tstate but got a pressure release cap from Advance auto.

Even if the cap and thermostat are new they may of been damaged by the running warm. So try the new fan clutch but keep in the back of your mind the cap and thermostat may need to be replaced.

I don't mean to make you spend more money but want you to know what to do if the fan clutch does not do the job.

Ill give a wirl, clutch fan and all. Thanx Martin

digger4u said:

Ill give a wirl, clutch fan and all. Thanx Martin

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If you're sick of dumping $ into the cooling system, you could always buy a fan clutch spacer to replace the fan clutch for $14 at summit racing. There's mixed opinions on using these, but I have one and my engine stays right at t-stat temp. It does take a little longer to warm up, though. You do loose a little hp when engine is not very hot, since it spins the fan 100% of the time.

Planetcat said:

If you're sick of dumping $ into the cooling system, you could always buy a fan clutch spacer to replace the fan clutch for $14 at summit racing. There's mixed opinions on using these, but I have one and my engine stays right at t-stat temp. It does take a little longer to warm up, though. You do loose a little hp when engine is not very hot, since it spins the fan 100% of the time.

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Is that advisable as a long-term solution?
I began to consider this option after I called the stealership and got a quote on a fan clutch ($206.80 CAN!) I nearly choked. I've since been quoted $50 - $75 by aftermarket shops.