How's my welds look????

BornAgainXJer · Sep 13, 2004

After seeing what The Owl posted yesterday and all the crap he got for it, I was thinking man I can weld better then that. I have been practicing for a while now trying to get good enough to start fabbing my own parts and stuff. I have never welded anything on my vehicle because i don't have confidence in my welds. So i thought that I would post a few pics of my welds to see what everyone thinks. Don't worry i won't take offense like Owl did.

These were done with a millermatic 130 turned all the way up with a feed speed of 35. I was using 3/16" scrap. Let me know what you guys think.

Beezil · Sep 13, 2004

on a heat setting of "4" your speed should be around 45-65.

weld filets and corners at a 45-degree angle, 5 degree push.

I would like to see the reverse side of the substrate in order to study your heat and penetration

BornAgainXJer · Sep 13, 2004

Beezil said:
weld filets and corners at a 45-degree angle, 5 degree push.

I am not sure what all that means could you explain

I also welded the other side so you won't be able to tell how I penetrated.

I realize this welder is only supposed to handle up to 1/8" but I figured for messing around it would do

Beezil · Sep 13, 2004

BornAgainXJer said:
I am not sure what all that means could you explain

when you are welding a 90-degree corner where the pieces are of similar gauge, hold the gun so the electrode fills the seam at a 45-degree angle. the electrode should also point towards the direction you are traveling with the bead at around a 5 degree angle.

the technique will be alittle different if you are weaving, which you did not do on your welds.

if I was welding two 3/16" thick sheets together with a small 130 amp welder, I would bevel cut/grind each, and I would certainly WEAVE my bead.

try it

waxer · Sep 13, 2004

One thing I didn't see is any cleaning of the metal. You have plenty of mill scale still on the steel. Before you weld, you should use a flap disc or grinder to clean the mill scale off and your welds will look and be better as a result.

BornAgainXJer · Sep 13, 2004

Beezil said:
when you are welding a 90-degree corner where the pieces are of similar gauge, hold the gun so the electrode fills the seam at a 45-degree angle. the electrode should also point towards the direction you are traveling with the bead at around a 5 degree angle.

the technique will be alittle different if you are weaving, which you did not do on your welds.

if I was welding two 3/16" thick sheets together with a small 130 amp welder, I would bevel cut/grind each, and I would certainly WEAVE my bead.

try it

When you say weave you mean like a c or u pattern right?

Also i was at a 45 and about 5 to 10 degrees.

The welder is a friends and I am borrowing just to practice.

I am in the market for a welder what should I be looking for? I can't see myself welding anything thicker then 1/4" or 3/8"s so what do you think?

BornAgainXJer · Sep 13, 2004

waxer said:
One thing I didn't see is any cleaning of the metal. You have plenty of mill scale still on the steel. Before you weld, you should use a flap disc or grinder to clean the mill scale off and your welds will look and be better as a result.

Thanks for the tip

So I guess my biggest question is do these welds look like crap?

RCP Phx · Sep 14, 2004

Is this with flux-core or solid,also what size wire?Try also to keep your welder close to the power source,voltage drop is a real issue with 120V welders!Looking better than some I seen,like Beez said just do one side and then flip it over and look at the penetration!
As far as welders go get a good/reputable 230v model and you wont go wrong!

BornAgainXJer · Sep 14, 2004

RCP Phx said:
Is this with flux-core or solid,also what size wire?Try also to keep your welder close to the power source,voltage drop is a real issue with 120V welders!Looking better than some I seen,like Beez said just do one side and then flip it over and look at the penetration!

It's solid and using gas. Yeah I have it plugged directly into the socket, I trip the breaker all the time though.

RCP Phx · Sep 14, 2004

BornAgainXJer said:
It's solid and using gas. Yeah I have it plugged directly into the socket, I trip the breaker all the time though.

What I was refering to is stay close to your "Electric Service",standard house wiring(#12 max/#14 min) really impacts the welders performance!A dedicated 30A outlet w/ #10 wire is what is really needed! IBEW640

BornAgainXJer · Sep 14, 2004

RCP Phx said:
What I was refering to is stay close to your "Electric Service",standard house wiring(#12 max/#14 min) really impacts the welders performance!A dedicated 30A outlet w/ #10 wire is what is really needed! IBEW640

Right right, well if it was my garage I would have plenty of power and such not but I rent so I have to deal with what I have right now

Beezil · Sep 14, 2004

it looks like you were pulling your welds.

push-pull isn't all that important for what we're doing, but you should definitly learn how to weave and push puddles and SEE what the weld puddle is doing an how to control it.

lets see the back side.

I know you are concerned with the LOOK, but pentration and CONTROL are important factors.

I can show you some ugly lookin vertical up welds that are far stronger than some pretty fixture-quality vertical down welds.

XJJPR · Sep 14, 2004

Beezil said:
it looks like you we pulling your welds.

..... but you should definitly learn how to weave and push puddles and SEE what the weld puddle is doing an how to control it.

This I totally agree with, you're pulling not pushing.

Change direction and slow down. Turn the heat down to match yoiu wire spead. The biggest thing people do with the smaller welders is go WAY too fast. Turn down the heat and take longer to weld. This helps with control, penetration and finish look of the weld also.

Try some over lapping joints rather than outside joints. Overlapping where one part is on the other. Then keep working on insides and butt joints last, easiset to burn material thru on.

hinkley

BTW, they do look much better than the othe bird crap welds. You started your post much better also.

Beezil · Sep 14, 2004

Mark Hinkley said:
Turn down the heat and take longer to weld.

I dunno hinkley, he's using a 130 amp welder....

IMHO, he needs all the heat he can get.

kmagnuss_2000 · Sep 14, 2004

I'm really glad this post was started. I've never welded anything before, but I hope to start in the near future. I've actually learned a few pointers from this thread. Please continue.

BornAgainXJer · Sep 14, 2004

Beezil said:
it looks like you were pulling your welds.

push-pull isn't all that important for what we're doing, but you should definitly learn how to weave and push puddles and SEE what the weld puddle is doing an how to control it.

lets see the back side.

I know you are concerned with the LOOK, but pentration and CONTROL are important factors.

I can show you some ugly lookin vertical up welds that are far stronger than some pretty fixture-quality vertical down welds.

No seriously I already welded the other side. I was running out of things to weld. Also I was pushing the weld and I have done the weave before but was interested in seeing what happens if you don't weave. Thanks for all the input, but still no response as to what welder to buy

BornAgainXJer · Sep 14, 2004

Mark Hinkley said:
This I totally agree with, you're pulling not pushing.

Change direction and slow down. Turn the heat down to match yoiu wire spead. The biggest thing people do with the smaller welders is go WAY too fast. Turn down the heat and take longer to weld. This helps with control, penetration and finish look of the weld also.

Try some over lapping joints rather than outside joints. Overlapping where one part is on the other. Then keep working on insides and butt joints last, easiset to burn material thru on.

hinkley

BTW, they do look much better than the othe bird crap welds. You started your post much better also.

Yeah, all the other practicing all have done has been overlapping, I thought I would try a 90* joint. also I was pushing the weld not pulling I can see the puddle most of the time till my auto tint helmet untints for some reason and blinds me. Thanks for the input

Now let me go into photoshop and..............:laugh:

GI-John · Sep 14, 2004

Here are a few links that were helpful to me.

http://www.khake.com/page89.html

http://www.machinist.org/army_welding/

http://www.welding.com/

And Yes, I'm a booger welder too.

PS They look much better than my first few tries

BornAgainXJer · Sep 14, 2004

Oh also I am using .030 wire and it's a copper color and don't know if you noticed in the welds there is a bit of copper looking spots on those welds

Beezil · Sep 14, 2004

BornAgainXJer said:
Thanks for all the input, but still no response as to what welder to buy

definitly a 220 welder.

check out miller and lincoln. 175-255amp units. 210 is a nice size as well.

hobart welders work nicely as well, but miller and lincoln have more beef in certain areas.

I like Lincolns more infinite control over heat and feed, and I REALLY like the digital read-outs on the 255's and up. The last three 250+ amp welders I've purchased have been lincoln, I have not been paying attention to any updates by miller.

How's my welds look????

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