anti wrap bar

crazy4mopar · Sep 11, 2004

Ok here's the deal
My Re 1462's went to sh*t (S shaped) in less than 1 month (kinda)
I've had them on for about 9 months but in the last month they took a dive, they went from a solid 5 1/2" of lift to almost flat and S shaped in 30 days.
I would like to remedy this.....
My question is where to start? If anyone knows me, they know I carried LOTS of stuff in my rig

Well, I'm not doing that anymore.... I've started breaking U-joints and driveline parts. So, do I start by replacing the leafspring pads with longer ones or go right to a traction bar.
Is there anyone here using the Bam Bar http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/bambar
Thanks for the info

93Jeepin · Sep 11, 2004

dont waste your time iwht the bar beam type, either get new leafs or get both..Ill be buying the TB from sams here shortly.

Jes · Sep 11, 2004

You can start by removing all the crap on your roof. The driver lost weight, now your rig should shed some pounds too.

ryurabbit · Sep 11, 2004

Hey Lee wheres the rest of your stuff in that pic?? I know you carry way more than that!!! hasta If it were me, First I would call RE and see what they can do. If they warranty them I would take the new ones to a custom spring center and tell them you want this arc with about 1000 lbs more carrying capacity. Will ride like s**t unloaded but will last you.Then sell them to pay for it!! :clap: If they dont warranty them there shot any way try mixing in leaves from the junkyard to stiffen it up and to hold the wrap down. A traction bar may help with the wrap and saving rear drivline components because of wrap but the weight is still the issue. The vehicle is too heavy and the axle twists trying to push it up. 1 ton suspension and drivetrain in your future!? :bunny:

Ralph · Sep 11, 2004

Have you ever thought about investing in a trailer?

GSequoia · Sep 11, 2004

Really man, how much extra gas do you need?

Goatman · Sep 11, 2004

Lee, your RE springs are basically good, I mean they use decent quality steel. They just weren't up to what you've subjected them to, which isn't uncommon for any spring. I'd add two leaves to your existing pack, one between the main and second leaf and another lower where ever it makes sense, try between the second and third or between the third and fourth. Any leaf will work, but either find one the right length so you can use the plastic friction pad on the ends, or cut the spring to the right length and use a full liner. The right length is splitting the difference in length of the two leaves you're going in between, both front and back. If you have a lot of time and energy you can drill a new hole in the spring for one of the pads, but it's MUCH easier to use a full liner. Also, if you get the ride and weight carrying capacity where you like it, but still need a little more lift, go ahead and use a block (just not aluminum), since you need a traction bar anyway.

You're not going to get away without having a traction bar. The springs will wrap when you're loaded and have some throttle on it, even slight throttle if you're on a steep climb, and with the trails you run you're too damn far away to risk having trouble. Something along the lines of the Sam's Offroad is what you need. Check around for a simple way to mount the front, plenty of things work well. Here's the front of mine, it uses two heims and is on the rear of the Tomken skid plate.

Have fun,

crazy4mopar · Sep 12, 2004

Jes said:
You can start by removing all the crap on your roof. The driver lost weight, now your rig should shed some pounds too.

That won't happen anymore!! :twak: :twak: :twak:
I already sold the rack!
I have a Custom rack now it holds the spare and 1 gas can......Thats it

crazy4mopar · Sep 12, 2004

Goatman said:
Lee, your RE springs are basically good, I mean they use decent quality steel. They just weren't up to what you've subjected them to, which isn't uncommon for any spring. I'd add two leaves to your existing pack, one between the main and second leaf and another lower where ever it makes sense, try between the second and third or between the third and fourth. Any leaf will work, but either find one the right length so you can use the plastic friction pad on the ends, or cut the spring to the right length and use a full liner. The right length is splitting the difference in length of the two leaves you're going in between, both front and back. If you have a lot of time and energy you can drill a new hole in the spring for one of the pads, but it's MUCH easier to use a full liner. Also, if you get the ride and weight carrying capacity where you like it, but still need a little more lift, go ahead and use a block (just not aluminum), since you need a traction bar anyway.

You're not going to get away without having a traction bar. The springs will wrap when you're loaded and have some throttle on it, even slight throttle if you're on a steep climb, and with the trails you run you're too damn far away to risk having trouble. Something along the lines of the Sam's Offroad is what you need. Check around for a simple way to mount the front, plenty of things work well. Here's the front of mine, it uses two heims and is on the rear of the Tomken skid plate.

Have fun,

Thanks for the info Richard. I am also going to be replacing the leafspring pads with longer ones. I also sold the roof rack, so nothing on top but the spare and 1 gas can :looney:

anti wrap bar

crazy4mopar

NAXJA Forum User

93Jeepin

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Jes

NAXJA Memeber #293 URF Racing

ryurabbit

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Ralph

NAXJA Member #149

GSequoia

Everyone says I'm a jerk.

Goatman

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crazy4mopar

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crazy4mopar

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