Alternator was a salvage unit of a 1976 caddy (you want pre 1980 as the recifiers after that date usually burn out a 30v - large case externally regulated ford alternators will work with no internal mods)....
The schematics are very simple - postive post of the alternator goes to the pos lead (stinger) and neg lead (mounted to the alternator bracket) goes to the ground clamp...
For everything else I just use the tweco panel disconnects (welding supply store) as junction blocks - one side goes to a terminal on the 110v outlet and the other side goes to the other terminal (doesn't matter which is which) I also ran a chassis ground for the outlets...
The meter is just measuring the open circuit volts when the system is unloaded- I use a hand throttle to control the RPM's and just use the OCV as a guide to aproximate amp levels...
The digital meter runs on 9VDC and I have it wired to run off a 9v battery with a power switch - you have to add some resistors to the back of that specific digital volt meter as it is designed to measure 0 - 200 mV not volts...
Otherwise when welding on your vehicle keep the setup reverse polarity (groung neg and stinger pos) to avoid possible electronics damage...
Thats about it - pretty simple...
Matt
I thought about home-brew plasma after reading some stuff but then I would do one of two things: 1. cook my nuts with a RF microwave transformer, or 2. actually make it work and then have to carry steel to cut and repair stuff with (my jeep is already too heavy - it doesn't need a steel rack inside)