steering setups???

Alright its that time let me see your steering setups, let me hear your likes and dislikes, what would you do different? I am looking into the 1 ton chevy tre's using DOM, trying to decide on crossover, OTK, or histeer, what are y'all's opinions. also pics would be awsome. fwiw I am gonna be bending my own trackbar also. I will be running D30 front with 36x13.5x15 IROKS on Eagle Alloy wheels.
And save the too small axle comments for PBB.
DIG IT!

I have teraflex's highsteer knuckle mated with rusty's hd tierod's along with a steering gear box brace.........I will be converting to dom tubing in place of rusty's stuff........other then that I love it and it works awesome even with an easy locker in MY D30 WITH 35's I gotta get me some locking hubs though

man immortal. I am having MJ withdrawl.

oh forgot to mention: THE INVERTED Y SUCKS!!!
that is all

I have an OTK setup with the knuckle-to-pitman arm draglink. It steers well on and off road, some people claim that style drag link can lead to breakage in the knuckle, im sure it can, but i havent yet.

I wish i had a better pic of it, but i dont so i wont post it, but with a 4 inch lift, and half inch of pitman drop over stock, the tie rod and drag link make only about a 10 degree angle which is quite easy to copy in the trackbar for correct steering geometry. For the mid range lifts, i think that OTK is the way to go, but i dont know how much lift you plan on using to clear the 36's so somthing else might be better for you.

im gonna be around 6.5 or 7" of lift

BUCKYXJ said:

I am looking into the 1 ton chevy tre's using DOM, trying to decide on crossover, OTK, or histeer.
DIG IT!

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Explain all that for Us newB's, Please?
I'm guessing you tap threads into a piece of DOM tubing and use Chevy tie rod ends? Details on doing that, length, materials, part numbers, etc.?
Thanks!

My head hurts from learning so much on this forum.

Never mind, Search is my Friend. There are just way too many choices for the XJ's, weeding through all the info feels like work. (good work though)
My head hurts again.

dana turdie with 36's.....

:conceited

Beez I will choke you!!!

anyone else?

BUCKYXJ said:

anyone else?

Click to expand...

I am running the chevy tierods with 1.25X.25 DOM tubing. I found the part numbers somewhere here on the list but don't remember where...The only thing I have found that I don't like with mine is that there is side to side movement in the draglink which causes a little play in the steering wheel. Sometimes it is straight and sometimes it is of a quarter turn. Sometimes when I am driving fast in corners like comming down a canyon I will be holding the wheel hard to one side and it will move a bout 1/4 turn but the jeep will keep going in the same direction.

The only thing I have found that I don't like with mine is that there is side to side movement in the draglink which causes a little play in the steering wheel. Sometimes it is straight and sometimes it is of a quarter turn. Sometimes when I am driving fast in corners like comming down a canyon I will be holding the wheel hard to one side and it will move a bout 1/4 turn but the jeep will keep going in the same direction.

Click to expand...

this effect is also noticable with my setup, though mine is only a tad more than 1/8 of a turn of the wheel


edit: I forgot to mention that i use 3/4 inch heims all around, rather than TRE's.

NCSUcherokee said:

this effect is also noticable with my setup, though mine is only a tad more than 1/8 of a turn of the wheel


edit: I forgot to mention that i use 3/4 inch heims all around, rather than TRE's.

Click to expand...

Is this an inverted-t setup or what?

-Mike

I have an OTK setup with the knuckle-to-pitman arm draglink.

Click to expand...

the slop in mine is more likely related to the slight difference in trackbar and drag link angles rather than the rod ends

NCSUcherokee said:

I have an OTK setup with the knuckle-to-pitman arm draglink.

Click to expand...

NCSUcherokee said:

the slop in mine is more likely related to the slight difference in trackbar and drag link angles rather than the rod ends

Click to expand...

All draglinks are knuckle to pitman arm...................Where does the tie rod go? Knuckle to knuckle or knuckle to draglink? :doh:

-Mike

All draglinks are knuckle to pitman arm...................

Click to expand...

no, they arn't

you asked if i had an inverted T, which would make the drag link go to the tierod, not the knuckle. the way steering is set up stock is inverted Y.

Where does the tie rod go? Knuckle to knuckle or knuckle to draglink?

Click to expand...

my tie rod runs from knuckle to knuckle.

If you don't want to fab your setup I would highly recommend Bulletproof Steering. I just installed their crossover steering system on my XJ and it's is stout. I just have the trail proof but they have Race and Rock Proof tubing as well. Their heims r crmo and super tight also. The supplied hardware is aircraft (f911) grade stuff. I had to relocate the swaybar mounts on the axle up 2 inches for clearance of the new draglink. They also have a otk, I would imagine that if you r trying to run the swaybar still you will have to have them put a couple bends in the draglink for clearance.

the reason I wanna go this way is because I can buy the parts if they break at any parts store.
DIG IT!

Found this on another board this is my idea and all the part numbers I am gonna use.
Heim joints are the devil, I have been there and done that! Never use heims on steering or suspension parts unless your rig never sees the street. There are far too many better, cheaper street legal alternatives.

tierod:
Use chevy shit it is soo much cheaper and easier to come by... Chevy TREs are the way to go, they have a 1.5" foot taper that you will need to put into the steering knuckles and pitman this is not a very big deal.

On the passenger's side knuckle use a 1985 K10 blazer passenger side TRE with the hole for steering stabilizer mount, taper that hole as well. This will become you passenger's side TRE at the knuckle and the newly taper hole in it will allow for the draglink. ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod 7/8"-18 left handed thread.

Driver's side knuckle use ES2010R $23, 7/8-18 right hand thread TRE same taper.

draglink:
ES2027L $22 misalignment drag link end , 7/8"-18 left hand thread.

ES2026R $18 misalignment drag link pitman arm 7/8"-18 right hand thread.

You can get 7/8-18 taps from www.etaps.com as they are not a standard thread (finer then fine thread).

I found a bridge reamer that would to 1.5" per foot in the desired diameter I need, this was about $50 cheaper then a real deal 1.5"/' taper reamer.