Johnny vs Super vs Jimmy vs FlexJoint

I know its been hashed a few times here on , but my searches are turning up random blurbs and words, not debates.
I got the axle end of my Rear 4-link ordered, got the tubing, almost finished the brackets and crossmember.
The guy at Poly says Johnny's are harder to rebuild, and that his new FlexJoints are the way to go. Currie says their Joints are stronger, WTF is Jimmy?
I want to do the Joint that has the most deflection, and most reliable, Rebuild isnt as big of a concern? What joints should I use at the frame end ?
Thanks for the help,
All opinions appreciated
A

Johnny Joints are Currie's joints and require shimming to tighten them once they get "loose". RE Joints simply use a spanner nut and can be tightened very easily, but utilize a special tool that can be had for $15. Jimmy joints are essentially a rebuildable heim with a very thin liner(the Johhny/RE/X-joints having much thicker liners and some, albeit minimal, shock absorption characteristics). The Jimmy joints are constructed similar to the RE joints in that they have a spanner nut and are tightenable. The last joint which I referred to earlier is the X-joint produced by www.hendrixmotorsports.com Like the Currie joint it does not have a spanner nut, but hendrix claims this joint does not need rebuilding over time due to their improved grease passages and materials. All in all, which joint is the best? I couldn't tell you. I run the RE joints 'cause that's what came on my RE arms( ) and haven't had problem one with them. The only thing close to a "problem" was that when brand new and freshly tightened they wouldn't accept grease. After a few months of beating on them they accepted VERY little and I've had to tighten them about once every 12-18 months. HTH

Ary

unless you're building something with Rockwells and 53s with a poor design, I think any of them will be strong enough. I would buy based on price and availablity, and would also give a slight preference to the RE joints since they are so common it would be easier to find spare parts in the event of breakage.

what about misalignment?
I thought I read somewhere that one of them gets 30 degrees ?

This is my rear bracket design, yes I know a few of you say

"why bother with adjustment, design it right the first time"

Click to expand...

But I change my mind so much and what works on paper doesnt always work in real world.
I dont have access to the fab shop forever, so Im doing what I can

And against Beezils advice, I got the 2" .250 wall.
His objection was price, but it turned out to be 15$ more for the 8ft section.

thats 2 C-Notes there

Not sure if Owl is around anymore or not, I seem to remember a falling out, but if you are, which one did you end up using? Any input from anybody else? The other difference is that the Super Flex joints have a grease hole in the barrel where a zerk is inserted, whereas a johnny joint from currie uses a greasable bolt and the center ball is drilled with a grease passage. I've ripped off more than one zerk on my current arms that was on the barrel so it seems the other way would be better, but not sure.

I Built my own longarm steup similar to the FT kit and used johnny joints. however mine run a 5/8 bolt and not a 9/16 as currie specs so i really don't know what i've got. Anyway the have the hole in the center ball for agrasable bolt. i like the idea with a couple of exceptions.

1. A bolt with a hole is not a strong as a solid bolt (correct me if i'm wrong)

2. As in the FT kit my upper bolt is about 10" long and the joint is on the far end from the head. this make a hollow/greasable bolt impossible to find and i would think very weak if i was to have one drilled.

So i am going to (hopefully soon) going to drill and tap the joint for a grease zerk and then weld a piece of tubing over the zerk to protect it.

The other option is to use the flat style zerks like a front u-joint.

While they work well, i don't like the non adjustable style. i may replace them later with the RE joints.

Just my $.02 worth

Dingo

credit for this research goes to toy4crawlin on the Pirate board:


Difference in Vendor Ball joints
Explained

--AOR Orbit Eye Joint
--Price $69.95
--Flex Degree 40*
--Size 2.5 inch
--Width- 3 3/4inch
--Ball Joint "precision-machined, cold-rolled steel ball"
--Cartirdge/Race "molybdenum-based nylon socket"
-- No Zirk fitting
--Uses, Leaf springs
--Issues, ??

--AllPro Johnny Joint
--Price $38. each
--Flex Degree 30*
--Size O.D. 2.5 inch
--Width- ??
--Gets there Joints from Currie,
BUT they drill the ball out to except a 5/8 shackle Bolt with Zirk fittg thus Lubricating the bolt inside the ball joint to not rust.
--Plus they Cross Drill the Ball to allow grease to Enter the ball joint.
--Use a C-clip on One end to hold joint together.
--Cartridge/race joint material still unknown
--BAll Joint material , UNKNOWN
--sells about 50 a month
- reports no failues with joint, search Board for feedback
--rebuildable with hand tools and on trail, according to Jay @Allpro
--USes, Leaf Shackle Pivot
--Issues/complaints: Difficult to install or rebuild

X-Joint "Rod End
--Price--> $34.95 each
--Flex degrees ??*
--Size--> 2 5/8
--Width- ??
--Nickel Plated Ball stress proof ball
--DOM shell with tapped hole for zerk
--Cartidge/races-->Oil Injected Nylon Races (Minimal Wear)
--Poly cup with integrated grease passage, zerk fitting.
--9/16" Bore
--.188 Wall Dom Outer tube
--2 5/8" Wide at bolt bore flanges.
--Zinc Plated threaded retainer, washer and snap ring
--Stainless Steel Set Screw
--Uses: Control arm,
--Issues: ??

Rubicon Express joint
originally designed to replace the heim joints
--Price $32. 2inch
--Price $39. 2.5 inch
--Flex Degree 28*
--Ball joint polished chrome ball, no specs
--Uses screw caps
--Cartridge/Race UHMW nylon
--Tube Zerk fitting
--requires tool to tighten
--Uses: Control arms, track bars, Jeeps
--Issues: ??

--Currie Joint
--Price $
--Flex Degrees 30*
--size 2 5/8 inch
--Uses screw in caps to hold joint together
--Cartridge/race "high88" urethane,like ploy bushings
--Ball Joint, 4340 Chromoly
--requires tool to fasten
--Uses: Rod end, Control arms, Jeeps

Thanks Brett
I guess i must have the Allpro joints, makes sence cause i bought them from a toyota guy who ordered them for himself but didn't use them.

Dingo

And I thought we were gonna talk welding!


hinkley

THE OWL said:

Rebuild isnt as big of a concern

Click to expand...

Wonder why?

Answer: Because he'll never wheel it enough to wear it out.