question on subwoofers

i have a 94 jeep cherokee 2 door sport and i am putting in a deck, 2 10 inch infinity sub woofers, and an amplifier. i have no clue how big of an amplifier i need and i do not ahve a huge amount of money to spend. so my question is how many watts will i need in an amp to run my 2 10's and what kind of amp would you recomend. thank you

This is a personal preference question. You have to base it on your musical tastes, listening preferences, enclosure type etc. I have rockford and Pio. speakers,Panasonic deck and one MTX 10 being driven by an Orion 50 watt amp. Does all I need for every thing short of rap (I don't do rap) In general I'd say 100 watts per sub CLEAN is plenty unless you are competing. But this is all personal taste. IMHO buy the best amp your budget can afford.

Well I have always run US amps (I was sponsored by them a few years ago in the competitions) but I like the mtx and audiobahn always had a real good sound to me. Also check pawn shops they always have a bunch but make sure they test them for you before you buy.

This is a personal preference question///XJ or TJ...pawn shops are good so is the ebay thing...check on past sells of ebayer...i have bought some sweet audio at great prices there...charles

Picking an amplifier is relevant to both the music choice, and the subs power rating... If you have a subwoofer that is rated @ 100watts RMS, and you hook up a 100watt amplifier to it, perfect, but just saying that 100 watts sounds good is all in relationship to the sub or any speaker for that matter. For example; take an eclipse 18" Titanium Pro and give it the same 100 watts and you're going to get noise that sounds like your grandma just let one slip at the dinner table. The reason for this is because the subwoofer has a 3,000 watt RMS rating. Sure, you can run less than 3000 watts- but you're giving up sound accuracy, how loud it is, and the overall life of both the sub and the amp. By getting a small amplifier, then turning the gains all the way up, boost control up, you are working the amplifier at it's max. The amplifier can produce the power, but what happenms is you get a crap load of distortion- the ends of the sound waves start getting cut off, and instead of a smooth flowing sound you get the middle of the waves but at the end they get cut off and become square waves... this distortion will absolutely kill a sub in no time, i see it all the time. In addition to the speakers getting killed, running the amplifier like that puts a lot of stress on it- and it is much more likely to fail. My suggestion would be to figure out what the RMS rating of the subs are, are the single or dual voice coil?, are they 2 or 4 ohm? these are all things that you have to take into the equation when choosing the right amplifier for your subs... When you find out that information, PM me and i will break it all down for you and get you heading in the right direction! --Chad--

Another thing for anyone interested in electronics, this is an amazing site to check out.
http://www.bcae1.com/

Dito what JeepinAudiophile said, and remember most amps specs are rated at 14.4V, you might see 13.5-13.7 tops runnin straight of the battery. This will account for a power loss. So a 100W RMS amp will not give the full 100w to the sub, maybe 75 or so. There are ways to account for the loss, but I'm sure thats not in your budget. If you would like to get an amp to give optimum performance to your subs, check out the JL Audio "slash": series. You can find them on eBay, New, for pretty cheap. Reaurdless of input voltage, these amps will deliver the specified Voltage rating. Otherwise, you could run a 150W amp knowing it wont put out the specs listed at the voltage you're running, but thats getting kinda risky. I'd go with what you know or go with the JL for roughly 200 on ebay. ((((pLaY-iT-lOud)))

My friend has a 1993 toyota mr2 hes running 2 10" infinitys and hes using a us acoustics amp. Running 240 watts each sub. It sounds good and the amp was 200 bucks or something will all the wiring. It was a USB 4085. Also check out
www.woofersect.com
www.sounddomain.com

I notice these to companies offer the best prices. They both have great quality and great service. Hope that helps some

A few select websites have cheaper prices one one or two things- If your lookin for the best bet to go low in price- check out ebay, i was scared at first, just make sure their feedbacks good and their return policey is ok. I've bought 90% of my stuff on there, never had one problem- oh yeah thats about 2,500$ worth of just audio:looney: . Heres my sytem- go to www.crutchfield.com look and see whats appealing to you and it has ALL the specs you could ever want- then go to www.sounddomain.com- read the reviews on what you like- got to www.ebay.com or www.etronics.com to get your LOWEST prices. Crutchfield has the absolute best customer service in the biz- they are also the most expensive. etronics are the cheapest- you might wait and extra day or two to get it delivered. Ebay, all the sellers ive had, delivered in under a week. Ebay stores has just about every audio thing you could want, or you could wait for an auction to pop up- usually i just " Buy It Now"

o yeah, the 2.5K i used for my stuff on ebay = about 3.5K from crutchfield or sounddomain- hence I loooooove Ebay

anyone tried solobaric l7s?

thats what im runnin- well as soon as i finish fiberglass work in rear- had them in 7 cubic foot box in back till i went mdf-fiberglass. For the money, they are awsome- especially when you can get 2 12's off ebay for 250$ or so.

sweet, that's the plan for me too. i picked up the kicker brand sealed box off ebay they designed for 2 12s for 39 bucks. you're in va too!

going to try to fit 6.75 inch polks in the doors. what are you fiberglassing? rear hatch is fiberglass is all i can think of, unless you are "creating" stuff.

I have 97 so rear hatch is steel.
- I made a set of kickpanels, redid dash, center console, instument panels, radio bezel, trim pieces along roof line, a-pillars, b pillars, rear overhead speakerbar,
- workin on under rear seat, most of rear for sub box, full length overhead console- most big pieces like center console and sub box are a combination of mdf/ fiberglass, most smaller pieces are fiberglass/ body filler or just body filler- Oyeah dont forget the WEEKS of sanding- Gotta be comfortable while i gi wheelin!
oh yeah about your box- re-seal it just incase! nothing sounds worse than and air leak!

dothedew24_7 said:

re-seal it just incase! nothing sounds worse than an air leak!

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