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Help my 4.7 Stroker will Not Start!!!!

gzweber

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Yankton, SD
Hi I just put a 4.7 stroker in my 90 jeep Cherokee and I cant get it to start. I installed a new crank position sensor and I have tried my friends 02 sensor (that didnt do anything) I have spark (not sure how stong it is)...compression...and fuel i think, but it wont start. Also, Im not sure If my starter is turning fast enough to start it but the thing is even after shooting fuel down the intake it does not even try to start. No pop just the sound of it cranking. PLEASE HELP ME
 
agree, check distributor, plugs & coil, crankshaft position sensor

sounds like spark's your problem (especially if you put fuel down the intake)

-red
 
Mine wouldn't start because I got the fuel lines reversed. :doh:

Damn, did I have to admit that.

:)
 
I got it started and it runs perfect!!!!! The day after I posted my help thread I went out to mess around with it some more, but this time it at least sputtered and that’s when I could tell just by the sound that it was not getting enough spark. So thanks Dr. Dyno, because it was indeed a ground problem. My friend that helped me paint everything forgot to tape up the hole where the dipstick grounds go therefore it was full of paint and was not grounding correctly. Also while I was cleaning all of this up I installed a new 160amp alternator and 4 gauge charging and ground wires just because I thought it couldn’t hurt. When I was done it fired right up and at first idled kind of rough, but then soon cleaned up to a perfect purr. I was at least expecting the rough idle that everyone seems to have with the strokers, but even at as low as 400-800 rpms it runs like a top. I don’t know if this is because I put Chevy 2.02, 1.60 valves and vortec retainers and locks in or what, but whatever, it works. When I took it out for a spin even just above idle it has way more torque than stock and I can’t wait until it’s all broke so I can really see how she runs. Thanks again for the help and suggestions.
If anyone has questions about my setup, or how I went about doing what I did feel free to ask me.
 
gzweber said:
If anyone has questions about my setup, or how I went about doing what I did feel free to ask me.

A general overview of what combination of parts you are running would be great - please. :)

r@m
 
Well my jeep is a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited with the heavy (5,000 lbs) towing package (Dana 44 rear and trans cooler). It has the aw4 mated to the np242 t-case. I just bought it about 3 weeks ago for 800 dollars and at that time it had 292,800 miles on it. There was about six inches of oil in the air box and I was told that it took a quart of oil every 100 miles and ran rough at idle. So I bought it with the idea of rebuilding it as soon as I could. With the help of a friend I had it torn apart by the third night of owning it. It shows how good the design and quality of 4.0 is because even with obviously no maintenance and oil as thick as molasses (very little of it at that) that jeep stayed at a good even temp and ran, not to mention the fact that all parts were way within proper specs.
Anyway the following is a list of the parts and prices for my stroker

Block: original block bored .060 over-cost about 70 bucks for machine work

Crank: 258 crank out of 76 amc with 60,000 miles on it 100 dollars for the entire engine the crank came out of and 70 bucks to have it ground 10/10 (not because it needed it, but because I bought the rebuild kit from a friend that was not going to use it and new bearings would have been about the same price. Also had the snout cut to same length as stock 4.0 crank

Rods: Stock 4.0

Pistons/master rebuild kit: Cast aluminum .060 over. It was about 20 bucks to have the wrist pins pressed–these came in the rebuild kit I bought from my friend which came from flatlander racing it was about 380 bucks when he bought it they are about 475 now. It came with all needed seals, gaskets, pistons, cam, lifters, rings, wrist pins, oil pump, timing set (gears and chain), bearings and whatever else I’m forgetting

Cam: new stock

Pushrods: stock used a friend’s lower mileage rods.

Lifters: new stock

Timing set: new stock

Head/valves: ported and vale size increased to Chevy 2.02 Intake 1.60 exhaust (used Manley valves-bought from machinist 25 bucks) it was about $2.50 (2.50*6 intake and 6 exhaust) a hole to have the head cut for these valves. 3 angle valve job New Chevy valve guides. Used Vortec locks and retainers from machinist-25 bucks. Old stock rocker arms. New stock springs ---cost for all head work and parts was about 150 dollars

Thermostat 180 degree- cost…cheap enough that I don’t remember.

Intake: removed EGR stock throttle body (for the meantime) and stock injectors (also for the meantime)

Exhaust: stock manifold-ground down the nasty stock welds after the flange and removed the EGR New S pipe flows way better than stock straight pipe until high flow turbo muffler

Total Machine bill: 550 dollars –This includes cleaning of parts install of freeze plugs and pressing of wrist pins. Also includes the new head parts (valves and the like)

Total parts bill: around 450-500 for rebuild kit and new plugs fluids newer distributor from friend.

Total stroker cost was about 1000 dollars
 
A 1990 with a stock D44.
Put yer suit on, unless it came from Canada or S.A.
Regardless, nice work and congrats.
:cheers:
 
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