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First real fabrication project: long arms

mission-inc

NAXJA Forum User
Location
OREGON
Well I've decided to start my first real fabrication project and it's going to be long arms for a ~7" lift. I would like to buy rusty's crossmember and build the long arm brackets off that. I'm doing this rather than building my own, so I don't bite off more than I can chew. Anyway I was wondering if it's possible to start the contruction on the arms without the springs or crossmember. Is there a ballpark length for the long arms that I could use?

Got any tips for me? I'll be building this with a very competent fabricator, so he'll make sure I don't screw up too bad. :eyes:

Thanks for catering to my feeble minded questions. :looney:

EDIT: I'll be using Rusty's transfer case crossmember.
 
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Any tips, maybe dont start your long arms as your first project.

Try something like a rook rack, or candle holder. Something that wont kill you if it fails. Just a thought.

Fergie
 
I wouldn't be doing the welding, just mainly the grunt work. I've already thought of that.

Thanks anywho.
 
mission-inc said:
Well I've decided to start my first real fabrication project and it's going to be long arms for a ~7" lift. I would like to buy rusty's crossmember and build the long arm brackets off that. I'm doing this rather than building my own, so I don't bite off more than I can chew. Anyway I was wondering if it's possible to start the contruction on the arms without the springs or crossmember. Is there a ballpark length for the long arms that I could use?

Got any tips for me? I'll be building this with a very competent fabricator, so he'll make sure I don't screw up too bad. :eyes:

Thanks for catering to my feeble minded questions. :looney:

EDIT: I'll be using Rusty's transfer case crossmember.

If you're really asking for tips, which you should be if this is your first fabrication project, why don't you start by telling us what your goals are with the long arm project. What are you trying to accomplish? What do you want the modification to do for you?

The complexity of the project is determined by how many performance parameters you are designing around. Of course, if all you want is long arms, and performance isn't an issue, then it doesn't much matter what you do.

:) :)
 
Well my first goal was to lift the heep. The more I save my cash and think about it, I wanna do it right the first time. By this I mean that I want to get a lift that I'll be happy with for a long time. I've decided to run 35" tires because they are pretty popular, which makes them cheap when you buy em used.

Now for the long arms. I've road in 2 jeeps, both of which running lifts around the same height. The main difference between them was that one had long arms and one not. The "short" armed one had one hell of a ride. Granted it was on a hard packed dirt road, but I could definetly tell the difference between the ride quality.

My cherokee is my daily driver, and although I don't like the fact that it's driven mainly on road, it is. I value a nice ride over almost anything else. I'm planning on not only getting long arms to help with the ride, but i'm going to be purchasing high quality cadillac type shocks (most likely OME).

Anywho, the main reason is the ride quality. I also would rather make it myself than purchase it to save money and for that self satisfaction you get after building crap.

I thought long arms were pretty strait forward, but I guess not. What do you mean by "performance parameters"? Ride quality vs. ground clearence i'm guessing. I'd like a balanced ratio of the two, but I suppose a nicer ride would be more pratical for my situation. In my mind I know a nicer ride is more pratical for a DD, but to be honest i'd rather have more ground clearence (I mean I do wheel and I know the importance of ground clearence).

Sorry if i've asked the wrong questions or not provided enough information, I wasn't really sure where I should start. I know what kind of tubing I'm going to use and all the joints and hardware and stuff, but now I don't know where to truly begin the project.

Thanks for the help.
 
I forgot to mention that I have built things out metal before and I know my way around a garage, but this is a pretty serious project so i'm trying to get as much veteran help and suggestion as I can.

Thanks again.
 
mission-inc said:
Well my first goal was to lift the heep. The more I save my cash and think about it, I wanna do it right the first time. By this I mean that I want to get a lift that I'll be happy with for a long time. I've decided to run 35" tires because they are pretty popular, which makes them cheap when you buy em used.

Now for the long arms. I've road in 2 jeeps, both of which running lifts around the same height. The main difference between them was that one had long arms and one not. The "short" armed one had one hell of a ride. Granted it was on a hard packed dirt road, but I could definetly tell the difference between the ride quality.

My cherokee is my daily driver, and although I don't like the fact that it's driven mainly on road, it is. I value a nice ride over almost anything else. I'm planning on not only getting long arms to help with the ride, but i'm going to be purchasing high quality cadillac type shocks (most likely OME).

Anywho, the main reason is the ride quality. I also would rather make it myself than purchase it to save money and for that self satisfaction you get after building crap.

I thought long arms were pretty strait forward, but I guess not. What do you mean by "performance parameters"? Ride quality vs. ground clearence i'm guessing. I'd like a balanced ratio of the two, but I suppose a nicer ride would be more pratical for my situation. In my mind I know a nicer ride is more pratical for a DD, but to be honest i'd rather have more ground clearence (I mean I do wheel and I know the importance of ground clearence).

Sorry if i've asked the wrong questions or not provided enough information, I wasn't really sure where I should start. I know what kind of tubing I'm going to use and all the joints and hardware and stuff, but now I don't know where to truly begin the project.

Thanks for the help.

You're asking good questions, so I'll try to give you some good answers. :)

Both long arms and 35" tires are not something that you want to do just because they are popular, especially if your funds are limited (buying used tires). Both take some serious consideration to do right. 35" tires, and the amount of lift required to run them, cause major reliability issues with the stock drivetrain and steering. 35" tires are too much for ANY stock drivetrain combination, of ANY year XJ. You may already be doing axle and steering upgrades, but if not, don't go to 35" tires. We all do this to have fun out on the trail, and breaking down is not fun. There aren't any trails that you will run where the 35's will give you noticeable performance gains over 33's. People on these forums have run the hardest trails out there in their XJ's with 33" tires. So, first of all, if you're just getting started, consider sticking with 33" tires, unless you are already doing major axle and steering upgrades.

The problem with a poorly designed long arm suspension system is the loss of ground clearance. Every long arm kit on the market has this problem. You said that you want a good ride since this is your daily driver. However, you also said that you want to wheel your rig and ground clearance is a priority over a good ride. This is exactly what I was referring to when I commented about "performance parameters". It's important to know what you want overall. A long arm suspension can be designed with good ground clearance, but it has to be all custom, and it's not easy to do. 35" tires and 7" of lift won't do you much good if you get hung up on low hanging control arm mounts that decrease your breakover angle. There have been many, many discussions about this, and a search should get you some good info and ideas.

If you are really doing mostly a bolt on kit, just making your own arms, you don't have many options. If you are really going to fab something up, then study the subject well and build carefully. Remember, the issue isn't arm length, it's arm angles. A lot more length is the easiest way to get better arm angles, but it's not the only way. If you're wanting to fabricate something, it's worth considering a slightly longer arm, with slightly lowered mounting locations on the frame and slightly raised mounts on the axle. Another choice is to use J arms with the stock mounts, or make a slightly longer J arm with modified mounts.

Other options are to stick with 33" tires and trim to make them work with 4-5" of lift, which will allow you to run the stock steering, and the lower lift will mean better control arm angles. You can also do more extreme trimming to run 35" tires on 5-6" of lift, and do some slight modifications to your control arm mounting positions, or use J arms.

We do a hardcore XJ trip every year that we call Best of the West, or BOTW. We've run the Johnson Valley trails, the AZ trails, the trails in Montrose CO, Avalanche Ranch, Parker AZ......basically the hardest trails in the west that people are running in XJ's. A couple of people run long arms, but most of our group run short or mid arms, and some run 33" tires. Jes, PorchPuppy, GRNT, and Rick XTRM XJ run short arms and 33's, and Kevin runs short arms and 35's. Erik and Mark Hinkley run J arms, and Paul Sinclair and I run a slightly longer arm, or mid arm. Here's a link to pics of our last run, if you want to see what I'm talking about. BOTW '04

I don't mean to bombard you with info, or criticize what you're thinking. You asked some decent questions, and I'm answering in the best way that I can. I also think it's good to have a discussion about this now and then.

Happy wheeling, :)
 
I have thought of everything thing including steering and driveline strength. Earlier this summer I picked up a ford 8.8 with a dana30 front (with matching gears). The more I think about it the more I wished I got a 9" rear and a 44 front.... :( But I suppose I'll wait till I start popping axle shafts before I make that swap.

I don't know much about steering and which would be best for my situation, but I was thinking about an OTK steering conversion, with as much homebuilt stuff that I can get away with (which may be none, depending on what's available and the shear difficulty of fabricating your own steering - never done it before but it doesn't look that tough).


Phat Jeeps (www.phatjeeps.com) has a dana30 crossover steering kit that looks pretty solid:
cyn_steer_frontend.jpg


This could be an option, but to be honest I'm not sure if it's the best thing to do. I'll also be putting down some cash on a steering box reinforcement plate.


My questions now would be: What is a good way to handle steering? What seems to work/what doesn't? Is the dan30 front/ford8.8 rear a decent setup to handle 35's? I know it's definetly not the best, but it should be better than my stock 8.25.

Thanks again for helping so much goatman. I hope to get the wheels turning (faster) on this project soon.
 
old_man said:
Here is a preliminary article on building arms.

http://www.4x4getaways.com/LongArms.htm

I hope to get some drawings of how I cut the brackets from steel tubing. LOL

I've actually read your article over and over time and time again. It's one of the reasons i've decided to build my own arms. Thanks for the awesome article!
 
Don't hesitate to BC me if you have any questions. One of the major reasons NAXJA exists besides wheeling is to share the knowledge learned.
 
I think you saw the Full-Traction kit I was installing when I sold you that front skid plate... Well I've had a chance to actually wheel it, and I can stand by much of what has already been said here:

The D30 and 35's is costing me money everytime I go out. I like to be challenged everytime I wheel, I don't like to tootle around the dirt roads. As a result, I've broken two 760-X u-joints and twisted the splines on an axle shaft. I'm also on my fourth tie-rod and third set of axle shafts. The D30 cannot handle the stress put out by the 35's. I'm running 4.88's and haven't had any trouble with the R&P yet (knock on wood), but I expect to break parts everytime I go out. If you can, start with a different front end right off the bat if you plan on sticking with 35's. I ran 33's on my CJ-5 for years without breaking anything. I don't know what's up with the 35's, but they will cost you money in the long run if you stick with the D30.

The long arms have yet to be a factor in clearance related issues for me. They have made great rock-sliders, and have held up really well to my pounding. The bracket to which they are mounted follows the same angle as the arms, so that too has been slid over without getting hung up on. The arms measure ~32".

To sum it up, spend the extra money initially to get into a bigger front end, rather than trickling away your money over time trying to upkeep the D30. My HP D44 is in the works...
 
darn...I was hoping that wasn't going to be the case. Well I suppose it's time to do some front axle research. Thanks for the information, and keep it comin! :kissyou:

:wave1:
 
As always Goatman brings the real issue's to heart!I built mine because I needed an out to my RE 4.5" SF kit(and the 33's) and something not to detailed,and fairly easy to design/build!Drop brackets were out,I only lost @1" where the old brackets were!What I had was a harsh ride,bad driveshaft binding when fully drooped,too much fore/aft tire movement,and eating up upper axle bushings and tearing of the uni-body brackets.For a year I looked at what was out there and listened to what everyone had to say about LA'S.The Big 2 were clearance and binding!I actually gained 1/4" at the crossmember/skidplate and nothing hangs below that.The side benefit(requirements to make it work) of moving the mounts up/inboard is less binding.I havent had an upper bushing problem since.It think it has payed off extremely well!
BTW,my crossmember is a direct replacement of stock so my arms ended up at @ 32" long instead of some of the longer available arms(which is good) and one item that everyone commented on was the lack of a removeable center section,that could still be done.My pics are old and Im still not complete with the crossmember mods!
 
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here is some stuff I posted on the jeepforum cherokee section a while back....

This is my first post here... been on jeepforum for sometime now.... been lurking here for a *while* :)

--------------

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28090
bushing tech on naxja.


http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28716
control arm thread.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254876
building suspension links for dummies @ pirate 4x4


http://www.ilovejeeps.com/forums/sh...trol+arm+length
reference thread for control arm lengths.


one guys experience building a radius style longarm setup (like rubicon express)
http://www.4x4getaways.com/LongArms.htm


http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/
rocklogic 4x4. they have the "control arm outer sleeve" this will use
the factory style bushing. would be great for the body side of some lowers.
they also have a lot of other cool stuff. rod ends and the like.


http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynam...sp?folderid=788
rubicon express super flex joints. really nice for axle side.




I have been researching doing my own suspension links etc.... So, here is what I have managed to get togethere.

Bring on the links and discussion.

I am *seriously* considering a diy radius arm style long arm setup for the front.... if not that just a 5 link LA setup.
 
i kinda like the way this guy mounted his long arms,, remember this isnt my rig so dont ask me questions
longar.bmp
 
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