Clutch System Bleed Help Needed - Critical

93 Cherokee, internal slave - all new clutch, slave and master cylinder installed over the weekend and the pedal is still mushy, shifting is almost impossible. New everything.

I have bled the system through several times. And it still acts like there's air. Has anyone got a trick when it seems like everything else has failed?

I have taken the system down before and it's always come back up with normal bleeding. This time it's being stubborn.

Thanks for your help to keep me from taking it to the shop.
Brian

BrianB...Advise you to run a search, as there are several posts pertaining to this. Are you sure your master cylinder is good? I tried two from autozone and finally gave up and got one from carquest with lifetime guaranty before I got mine working right. The master cylinders from autozone were no good. Would hold for a week or so and then self destruct. Also they only had a 90 day guaranty. Don

basics.
either something has failed, or theres air.

For air- remember that when you installed the slave, there was a compression fitting on it. If you released it before you bled, theres air, or it failed. Their made to "come apart" when you start bleeding-theres already juice in it so air cant get in. Once air gets in, its a bear to get out-gravity has a weird law that defies us from bleeding air down. Not impossible, just a real pain.
check for presence of bubbles with a clear pvc bleed line running into a glass jar-takes two people. One to look, one to push the pedal and refill the can- run a good jar of new juice through it- look for any bubbles....any at all. by leaveing the pvc in the jar with juice, air cant come back into the system(unless the lines cracked).

as stated numerous times, the masters that come fom numerous places are made from inferior parts that were designed by people that need to be hauled out and beat with a big hairy stick. the ratio of "good to bad parts" is not in our favor. Stick with the good stuff, or take a chance. deny the "i need to save a buck" when you really need something that works instead.

air in the line feels mushy through the complete stroke- a bad master feels like it starts to hold, then whooshyes (new word) down to the floor. Rebuild kits available usually- new o-rings may solve the problem.

I`d check for air first-since you probably installed it correctly. Then , if that didnt work, roll up the sleeves, get out the bandaids, and remove, replace, an swear alot.

and i still say there should be a "common problem" page on this site, like there used to be a few years back, so we wouldnt have to search. :yelclap:

Thanks for the reply. I had done a search and read through a number of posts on clutches and wish I had read all of that before the install.

Last night, after the second master replacement, I have the same result as with the first new master - lifetime warranty O-Reilly's. After the initial bleed, operation is good, normal. With more driving, it requires more pressure on the pedal to get a shift. We're talking some serious weight on that pedal at times to get first gear.

The slave was compressed at installation, straps were never removed before installation and I heard them pop when the first bleeding began. But the system's been opened a few times now and if air can get trapped there I guess that's a problem.

If it's air, that's okay. I feel like I can lick that problem. It just seems odd the way it's behaved.

Thanks again,
Brian

Gravity bleed it.

Just open the bleeder and keep fluid in the master.

The clutch masters are a bitch to bleed.

Also try to leave it sit for a while then go back and bleed it.

HTH

mark