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Sephrion
August 16th, 2004, 01:13
i'm going to order the heavy duty currie tie rod / draglink and really my question is should i go ahead and order the currie TB or should i get the rubicon TB?

other than that seeing as im probably going to a 6" lift (current is 3" with 31" tires on a '94 XJ basically stock 'cept lift) within the next year should i get anything else steering wise?

DaffyXJ
August 16th, 2004, 04:14
When I put the 6.5 lift spring set on (long arm) I also added a longer drop pitman arm and TB drop bracket. Even with these two the bump steer is very accute.
Make sure the TB is adjustable. (Most are)

Derik

ashmanjeepxj
August 16th, 2004, 13:54
Id look into flipping your tierod so it comes in from the top, you will have to drill our your knuckles, cut off the factory sway bar brackets, and raise the axle end track bar bracket but it will give you flatter drag link, and about 3in more clearance under your tierod. Or you coudl get the teraflex High steer knuckle for PS knuckle to get a flat draglink.

If you choose to drillout your knuckles why not just convert to LARGE 1ton tierod ends. 7/8-18 threads.

ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end Passenger side 7/8"-18 about 7in long with 3in of threads, BIG taper
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link Pitman arm side end Are 7/8"-18 about 7in long with 3in of threads, BIG taper

ES2234R $23.99 Shorter then the drag links, driver side tie rod 7/8"-18
Application: 85 Blazer

ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod 7/8"-18 WITH HOLE FOR DRAG LINK, for T-geometry steering.
Application: 85 Blazer

Then just get some 1.24in DOM tube threaded to 7/8-18. It woudl be better and should cost less then OEM kinda stuf your looking at. Drilling out the pittman arm is a chore though. I needed a carbide bit for that.

There are lost of options.